V
The slipping clutch thread.
- Thread starter Genome
- Start date
Stock clutch is around $950.00 to $1000.00 (without labor)
Southbend Stage III is around $1250.00 to $1300.00 (without labor)
Labor is like $350.00 to $400.00 to install it. Anyone charges you more than that your getting raped.
FYI: Stealerships charge something like $850.00 to install a clutch... LOL
panda_man22
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Ottawa, Canada
form what ive seen the TSI clutches are more than the FSI qutei pricey
basically makes buiying a 200$ catless Downpipe cost $2000+ cause you know youll need the clutch eventually
basically makes buiying a 200$ catless Downpipe cost $2000+ cause you know youll need the clutch eventually
south bend stage 2+
hi guys,
i just install stage 2+ om my car because the original cluth was slipping.
and that because i have apr stage 3.
but now after i install it there is a couple of problem and i thought maybe someone can help me:
1. there is a terrible noise from the clutch in idle and also in drive.
2. the pedal is very hard
3. the gear change is become less smoother.
is anyone experience this ?
hi guys,
i just install stage 2+ om my car because the original cluth was slipping.
and that because i have apr stage 3.
but now after i install it there is a couple of problem and i thought maybe someone can help me:
1. there is a terrible noise from the clutch in idle and also in drive.
2. the pedal is very hard
3. the gear change is become less smoother.
is anyone experience this ?
Attachments
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IMG_9668.jpg
ecoterragaia
Ready to race!
- Location
- Richmond, VA
Can anyone elaborate on this? I've had a rattle coming from the clutch area for about 10,000 miles now. Dealership gives the usual advice, "it's normal, there's no CEL, no smoke or flames, you're good to go, where's our $98?". Within the last month since it's gotten cold the rattle has become a knock (sounds exactly like a distant helicopter) that is loudest right after a cold start. It's still audible when fully warmed up, but almost imperceptible from road noise. When idling in neutral, if I just just touch the clutch, pressing it down about an inch, the knocking sound disappears. Within the last week, throttle response has become "lazy" feeling, like there's a lag between throttle inputs and the linear motion of the car (engine is still snappy though).
She's my daily driver @ 48,000 miles and I've never once felt the clutch slip, and I test it every month or so with the abovementioned high-load method. I'm thinking flywheel and throwout bearing, but I wanted to see if anyone else has had a problem with their flywheel/TO bearing/clutch WITHOUT any slippage.
Genome
Hippest Teacher. Ever.
- Location
- SoCal-Irvine/Palos Verdes Estates
You're kidding right?
Its clutch chatter, and a stage 2+ on your clutch doesn't make it as streetable as your oem one.
1. Single mass flywheels = rattle, its 100% normal.
2. Very hard pedal? I have the SB Stage IIII & my pedal is about 30% stiffer than stock.
3. Get a set of mounts (engine, trans & a dog bone, like the BSH mount) that with the 42 DD shifter bushings & you'll be hitting gears like its nobodys business.
were can i get all the mounts and bushings you said? and also the 42dd shifter
thanks
Mike@Forge
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Orlando FL
- Car(s)
- 07 BMP GTI Pkg 0
As I mentioned, I just put a Spec Stg. 2 + (456 lb/ft capacity) with the lightweight steel single-mass flywheel in my car yesterday.
Only issue during install was the center bore of the flywheel was a little small and needed to be honed a tad, but it's on and performing flawlessly thus far. Everyone complains about chattering with the single-mass flywheel, but I barely hear anything but a faint rattle at idle.
The entire rotating assembly (steel flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch) weighs in at 11 lbs. less than the stock assembly. 40 lbs. total for the stock parts and 29 for the Spec parts.
As it turns out, however, my stock clutch actually hasn't failed at all. The friction surface of the disc is just a bit glazed and smoothed out which led to the slipping I was experiencing. Scuffing it up a bit should bring it back to normal operation again. Unfortunately in my case, this just can't be determined until it's removed and a replacement purchased under the assumption of what appears to have been a complete failure.
I realize that some people appear to have tons of issues with Spec, but I know from working in the industry that problems posted on the internet, while seemingly abundant, really only represent a small percentage of actual problems. Additionally, many of the issues I've seen in my research seem to be with clutchs very similar in torque capacity to their OEM counterparts when something of a higher capacity should have been used. Additionally, many complaints are more often simply hearsay perpetuated by friends of friends who have no firsthand experience, which exacerbates the apparent severity of the failures.
I am in no way affiliated with nor defending Spec; I have no reason to. I have never used their products in the past, nor was I given any discount or sponsorship on this setup. I'm just willing to give them the benefit of the doubt and trust that it will operate as advertised.
I will obviously keep the potential issues in mind, however, and report any problems should they arise, but everything is working fine so far, and I'm confident that won't change. Time will tell.
Here are some photos of the Spec:
As well as the glazed but reusable stock clutch:
Only issue during install was the center bore of the flywheel was a little small and needed to be honed a tad, but it's on and performing flawlessly thus far. Everyone complains about chattering with the single-mass flywheel, but I barely hear anything but a faint rattle at idle.
The entire rotating assembly (steel flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch) weighs in at 11 lbs. less than the stock assembly. 40 lbs. total for the stock parts and 29 for the Spec parts.
As it turns out, however, my stock clutch actually hasn't failed at all. The friction surface of the disc is just a bit glazed and smoothed out which led to the slipping I was experiencing. Scuffing it up a bit should bring it back to normal operation again. Unfortunately in my case, this just can't be determined until it's removed and a replacement purchased under the assumption of what appears to have been a complete failure.
I realize that some people appear to have tons of issues with Spec, but I know from working in the industry that problems posted on the internet, while seemingly abundant, really only represent a small percentage of actual problems. Additionally, many of the issues I've seen in my research seem to be with clutchs very similar in torque capacity to their OEM counterparts when something of a higher capacity should have been used. Additionally, many complaints are more often simply hearsay perpetuated by friends of friends who have no firsthand experience, which exacerbates the apparent severity of the failures.
I am in no way affiliated with nor defending Spec; I have no reason to. I have never used their products in the past, nor was I given any discount or sponsorship on this setup. I'm just willing to give them the benefit of the doubt and trust that it will operate as advertised.
I will obviously keep the potential issues in mind, however, and report any problems should they arise, but everything is working fine so far, and I'm confident that won't change. Time will tell.
Here are some photos of the Spec:
As well as the glazed but reusable stock clutch:
MKV_B00ST
Ready to race!
- Location
- Central NJ
- Car(s)
- gti mkv
i wish they werent so much money...im really not planning on doing much more heavier mods to the car over stage 2+, what level clutch would be ideal just to get the job done and have no slippage? spec stage1 torque is measured at 350lbs so im assuming that would be more than fine for my preference correct? unless you have to take other things into consideration..
I have the BFI Stage II Mounts. (google BFI Industries)
I have the BSH Pendulum Mount. (google BSH)
42 Draft Designs shifter bushings... (google them too)
Tempted2Speed
is cooler than you
- Location
- Sacramento
- Car(s)
- 2007 GTI CW 6MT
LOL Mike you use big words.
Lemme ask you this, since the flywheel ways so much less, does it require using less effort pushing the clutch in?
And in general when you change your clutch/flywheel setup does it change how much force it requires pushing in the clutch?
Lemme ask you this, since the flywheel ways so much less, does it require using less effort pushing the clutch in?
And in general when you change your clutch/flywheel setup does it change how much force it requires pushing in the clutch?
The clutch pressure plate determines how stiff the pedal is, not the flywheel. A pressure plate that can hold more TQ/HP requires a little more force to depress, but nothing crazy.