Meat's Brake DIY (w/ thanks to DanGSR)

[Kong99]

keep an eye on those pads
i know someone who burned threw them in 1 event

Will do, thanks for the heads up.

 

[g60_corrado_91]

Okay, I was reading the original thread again and it said to skip steps 4-6 if you're only swapping pads out. This means I don't necessarily need the 14mm triple square? Now if I was going to paint the calipers (which I plan on doing), I probably do need them then unless I don't take the calipers off? I also am going to bleed the brakes and use ATE blue.

 

[Meat]

Okay, I was reading the original thread again and it said to skip steps 4-6 if you're only swapping pads out. This means I don't necessarily need the 14mm triple square? Now if I was going to paint the calipers (which I plan on doing), I probably do need them then unless I don't take the calipers off? I also am going to bleed the brakes and use ATE blue.

You only need the 14mm triple square to get the rear carriers off. You only need to take the rear carriers off in order to take off the rear rotors. You can take the front calipers off with the 7mm allen wrench and the rear calipers off with the 13 and 16mm wrenches. If you want to paint the carriers as well as the calipers, you'll need the 14mm triple square for the rear and a 21mm socket for the fronts.

You don't need to take anything off to bleed the brakes or swap fluid. Just a 10mm (I think) socket to loosen the bleeder valves.

 

[Dan GSR]

11mm for the bleeder valves

 

[g60_corrado_91]

You only need the 14mm triple square to get the rear carriers off. You only need to take the rear carriers off in order to take off the rear rotors. You can take the front calipers off with the 7mm allen wrench and the rear calipers off with the 13 and 16mm wrenches. If you want to paint the carriers as well as the calipers, you'll need the 14mm triple square for the rear and a 21mm socket for the fronts.

You don't need to take anything off to bleed the brakes or swap fluid. Just a 10mm (I think) socket to loosen the bleeder valves.

Ah. That makes sense. And either way I do it I'm going to need the compressor tool as the new rotors are thicker right? Thanks for the help; not so sure I want to paint the calipers now. Maybe when I need new rotors too.:smile:

 

[Meat]

Ah. That makes sense. And either way I do it I'm going to need the compressor tool as the new rotors are thicker right? Thanks for the help; not so sure I want to paint the calipers now. Maybe when I need new rotors too.:smile:

If it's just new rotors you may be able to get the caliper and pads back on without it, but it could be a struggle. The piston will pretty much stay in it's last position, but it can be shimmied a little bit. I would have a tool on hand to be safe and save yourself some hassle. It's free from Autozone.

Dan- Thanks, I had a feeling it might have been 11mm

 

[g60_corrado_91]

If it's just new rotors you may be able to get the caliper and pads back on without it, but it could be a struggle. The piston will pretty much stay in it's last position, but it can be shimmied a little bit. I would have a tool on hand to be safe and save yourself some hassle. It's free from Autozone.

Dan- Thanks, I had a feeling it might have been 11mm

Thanks for the help. BTW, what's your name?

I plan on getting HPS pads and ATE fluid. I'm going to make sure the rotors are within spec though. I'm at 38k with a lot of rev matched downshifting and 1 season of AutoX's. Front rotors are at ~28k because they were warrantied at 10k.

 

[Dan GSR]

if your putting new pads in you will need the piston caliper tool

 

[Meat]

Thanks for the help. BTW, what's your name?

I plan on getting HPS pads and ATE fluid. I'm going to make sure the rotors are within spec though. I'm at 38k with a lot of rev matched downshifting and 1 season of AutoX's. Front rotors are at ~28k because they were warrantied at 10k.

My name's Greg, but everyone just calls me Meat.

Good call on the rotors, no need to replace them if the are an acceptable thickness and don't have any signs of heat cracks or damage.

if your putting new pads in you will need the piston caliper tool

Yes, definitely. The only time I get away with not using the tool is when I put on my track pads since they are usually worn thinner than my HPS pads.

 

[g60_corrado_91]

Okay, going to do these today since tomorrow's high is 3 degrees.

Just one last question hopefully. Do you guys have good luck with the anti-squeel that's provided with the Hawk pads? Or should I go ahead and use the CRC stuff I bought?

Edit: It appears this is for the brake noise and to lubricate the calipers.

 

[Meat]

I've never used any of the included lube, the the CRC red paste.

 

[g60_corrado_91]

Okay.

 

[g60_corrado_91]

Couple of things I noticed while doing this. Only the drivers side has the wear sensor wire. Probably already discussed, but whatever. Yet Hawk includes the sensor for both of the front pads.

Also, if you don't have a 7mm allen, you can use a T45 torx.

And those 21mm bolts holding the front carriers are tough to get loosened. I ended up turning the wheel to get access with a breaker bar. This was probably already mentioned as well.

Of course my car is still on jacks because I'm going to get the front rotors resurfaced early tomorrow. But all I have to do is slap them back on, put the pads on, and then bleed the brakes. Can't wait to finish it.

 

[Dan GSR]

Of course my car is still on jacks because I'm going to get the front rotors resurfaced early tomorrow.

unnecessary

 

[Meat]

unnecessary

True, for street pads you won't really need to have them resurfaced.