they're women?! Oh my god, I thought it was some kind of transvestite festival.
V
will new SS brake lines alone noticably improve the pedal feel?
- Thread starter Sayemthree
- Start date
they're women?! Oh my god, I thought it was some kind of transvestite festival.
IceFox
New member
- Location
- Uppsala - Sweden
sorry for this question that is quite out of subject, but on hawks homepage I found som Burnishing instruktions and I wonder what they mean with point 3.
Do they mean like breaking just a little over a long distance or?
Burnishing Instructions
1. After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4. Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5. After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
thx in advance
Do they mean like breaking just a little over a long distance or?
Burnishing Instructions
1. After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4. Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5. After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
thx in advance
johnny love
don't be an asshat.
- Location
- Reston, VA
it's been theorized that the "squishy" brake feel is due to the master cylinder diaphragm being too flexible, so all the bushings, ss lines, pads, etc will only do so much.
iirc, someone on vortex mkiv r32 forum (or maybe rdefined) replaced their MC with a new OEM unit and noticed greatly improved feel...for the first few thousand miles or so until the diaphragm stretched out.
if there's an aftermarket MC, i don't know about it; it's not something i've researched.
johnny love
don't be an asshat.
- Location
- Reston, VA
do not lightly brake between the stops. think of the brake pedal as a binary switch: on or off, no partial application/pressure.
Sayemthree
Ready to race!
- Location
- So Cal
well these internets are confusing for us old guys over 30.
Dan GSR
Autocross Champion
- Location
- NY , Long Island
I noticed a difference when changing the lines. Slight but it was there combined with the Tyrol bushings make a nice increase In pedal feel.
Meat
rack rack 'em
- Location
- Cincinnati, OH
- Car(s)
- 2007 GTI [DSG]
The real place that you'll feel a difference (if there is one) is when the fluid is hot and brake temps are up.
grasshopper
Frankie Says Reflex
- Location
- Phoenix, AZ
- Car(s)
- Jeep Wrangler JK
Dan's first post was spot on. The stock pads suck. I had major problems with consistancy. Pulling my DSG into parking spaces just under auto-creep I would occasionally scare myself when the car would not be stopping, despite the completely mundane task, the pads would just not grab like they did only 10 mins before. Every other kind of braking experienced the same kind of performance flucuations.
I switched to Akebono ceramics 'cos I've had excellent results with them on other cars and it noticably tightened the pedal up and the bite is consistant and predictable.
So, get rid of the stock pads first. I would do that before moving on to fluid and lines.
I switched to Akebono ceramics 'cos I've had excellent results with them on other cars and it noticably tightened the pedal up and the bite is consistant and predictable.
So, get rid of the stock pads first. I would do that before moving on to fluid and lines.
g60_corrado_91
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- IL
- Car(s)
- 2006 GTI 6MT Pkg 1
Wow, I know the pads are a weak point, but threads like these make me impulse buy stuff even though I'm due in <10k for new pads. Maybe I'll get them early.
Dan GSR
Autocross Champion
- Location
- NY , Long Island
hawk hp+
best street pads you can buy for the mkv
best street pads you can buy for the mkv
g60_corrado_91
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- IL
- Car(s)
- 2006 GTI 6MT Pkg 1
How loud are they? I know we've talked before, but supposedly some of the guys at AutoX had them and they were squeeky as hell when they were cold. I thought they were Carbontechs or something more radical, but people said otherwise.
Sayemthree
Ready to race!
- Location
- So Cal
VERY noisy.
as far as dragging the brakes I think they mean slightly dragging the brakes with the left foot while driving along with the right on the gas.
TarmacSpecial
Terror On Two Wheels
- Location
- Los Angeles
- Car(s)
- 2008 Volkswagen GTI
Dan is absolutely right. The stock pads are easily the weakest link. They simply just don't have the bite or heat dissipation properties for anything serious.
The lines will definitely improve feel by reducing what is effectively free play from brake line expansion under the intense pressure they are subjected too.
However, the calipers/carriers have a lot of flex, and the lack of opposing pistons only makes it more noticable in terms of pedal feel during intial braking when the caliper twists and takes a set. For this the Tyrolsport bushings will help.
Personally, I woud just do all those things at once as a brake mod package. If the mileage is low, I would just turn the rotors (regardless of the factory we-want-to-sell-you-another-rotor reccomendation against it), install the new bits, use good fluid, and enjoy the firmer pedal and great bite from the braking system.
The lines will definitely improve feel by reducing what is effectively free play from brake line expansion under the intense pressure they are subjected too.
However, the calipers/carriers have a lot of flex, and the lack of opposing pistons only makes it more noticable in terms of pedal feel during intial braking when the caliper twists and takes a set. For this the Tyrolsport bushings will help.
Personally, I woud just do all those things at once as a brake mod package. If the mileage is low, I would just turn the rotors (regardless of the factory we-want-to-sell-you-another-rotor reccomendation against it), install the new bits, use good fluid, and enjoy the firmer pedal and great bite from the braking system.
TarmacSpecial
Terror On Two Wheels
- Location
- Los Angeles
- Car(s)
- 2008 Volkswagen GTI
Two wheels or four, if you're agressive, and want great brakes, you're also going to get three other things - Noise, dust, and increased rotor wear. Just the way it is.
Some are better than others, but compromises are made when making pads that are quiet and yield little dust.
TarmacSpecial
Terror On Two Wheels
- Location
- Los Angeles
- Car(s)
- 2008 Volkswagen GTI
Perhaps it's different for cars, but on motorcycles, changing to S/S lines is night and day. We're talking going from being able to pull it to the bar with four fingers, to solid one finger braking. Yes, I've changed/bled fluid on stock lines too, so it wasn't that.
I think it's really more an issue of the hydraulic booster with cars. The booster greatly masks what's going on in terms of feel compared to a braking system without one like a motorcycle.
Some cars have more brake boost than others, and that effects pedal feel. I changed the brake booster on my old scirocco from one on a 944 Turbo and the thing felt like standing on a rock compared to the original one.
So really a certain lack of firmness will always be present unless there is a way to go to a diffeernt booster that has less assist. Failing that, the least you can do is try to eliminate the potential for misdirected hydraulic force via free play or flex, perceivable or not, by using the available means to do so.