Tucking my fusebox

[eurocars]

next is expansion tank delete. after that, im thinking of a eurojet valve cover an aluminum intake manifold with custom finishes

 

[cwhite09GTI]

expansion tank...is that that orange filled thing on the top left of the engine bay?

great work man. I understand putting a new finish on the valve cover, but what kind of finish...powder, paint, anodizing, or polish?

 

[b7a]

expansion tank...is that that orange filled thing on the top left of the engine bay?

great work man. I understand putting a new finish on the valve cover, but what kind of finish...powder, paint, anodizing, or polish?

Yes. And it's G12 coolant (pink).

 

[eurocars]

great work man. I understand putting a new finish on the valve cover, but what kind of finish...powder, paint, anodizing, or polish?

havent decided yet. i've been looking here for different ideas: http://dippedparts.com/#

 

[txricancarguy]

Wow... I'm impressed. That's one of the bravest DIY that I've ever seen. Looks nice and empty in the bay

 

[Chris@RT]

That^^^ is a very tough pill for me to swallow. I've been wiring car stereos and stereo systems for a long time, and soldering is my preference. Granted I use crimps when I'm in a pinch. Maybe its different for the rest of the car wiring, but I trust a solder joint wayyyyyyyyyyyy more than I trust a crimp. If done correctly, a solder joint's wiring should be twisted together first and then soldered. So the connection is far superior to that of crimp. I can accept your reasoning of vibration, heat, etc, however saying that a crimp offers less resistance at the junction than a soldered joint, I'm just having a tough time with swallowing that pill. But hey I guess I'm thread jacking, sorry Eric.

Ninja edit: another reason I prefer a solder joint is because a crimp can actually break. Even if the solder breaks on a properly soldered connection, the twisted wiring should still hold as long as its not being pulled on with force.

The only way a solder joint works is if the solder coats each strand and that then bonds it together. You have no copper connection then and resistance is higher. This is a fact not a matter of opinion that can be argued.

Most people have no clue how to properly solder or crimp but it is much easier to fake a mediocre solder joint then it is to fake a good crimp. You need the right type of connectors and tools to do the job right.


Twisting the wires actually introduces a HUGE stress point right at the solder joint which is where and why most fail. Even if heat shrinked the solder joint is the point of any stress on the wire. With a proper crimp the wires point of connection to the crimp itself is not the point of stress, it is protected within the hard metal tube limiting movement at the connection point then a heat shrunk and sealed tube adds additional flex far away from the actual connection.



Again this is exactly why the FAA REQUIRES all crimped connections and no solder connections, they have proven to be more reliable and have less resistance.

 

[Elliott]

^good info..

 

[Jtrem]

drtechy.

Take my word of advice. Don't argue with Chris. Seriously, he won't give up in his arguments. I've argued with him so many times before and no one wins. He never will admit he's wrong even if he is wrong.

But, I do have to side with Chris on this one. Even in all the auto tech classes I have taken. They always recommend crimping over soldering. Especially, on wires for things like O2 sensors.

It would be already to solder some connections for a radio. I have done it numerous times and never had any issues with it.

Not saying solder wont work, because it will. I had an issue with a few broken wires on the 02 sensor on my truck and I didnt have any crimps on me. But I had a soldering gun and some solder in my work bag. I soldered the wires together at the smog place. Just to get the code to clear so I could pass smog.

Those wires are still soldered together and its been over 6 months without issue. Eventually, I plan on replacing the 02 and doing it right.

 

[Cadbury]

From page 2 on the attached TSB:
"DO NOT solder repairs on vehicle electrical system."
and
"After crimping a repair connection, crimp connections must be heat-shrunk using hot air gun to prevent moisture
penetration."


-Cad

 

[HeartMyVeedub]

From page 2 on the attached TSB:
"DO NOT solder repairs on vehicle electrical system."
and
"After crimping a repair connection, crimp connections must be heat-shrunk using hot air gun to prevent moisture
penetration."


-Cad

Haven't read this whole thread and I don't know if this applies to me, but I soldered my boost gauge wiring for the backlight to my dimmer switch, is this bad?

Sorry for thread jacking btw

 

[merkeyterkey]

Haven't read this whole thread and I don't know if this applies to me, but I soldered my boost gauge wiring for the backlight to my dimmer switch, is this bad?

Sorry for thread jacking btw

You sir are properly fucked.

Nah just kiddin', your fine...

 

[HeartMyVeedub]

You sir are properly fucked.

Nah just kiddin', your fine...

Lol the "..." is throwing me off

 

[mfzero]

great work!

 

[eurocars]

Im not particularly worried. If i start running into issues/get bored enough over the summer, i may just redo everything. Until then, it's staying as-is

 

[Mr. White]

pics of glovebox