TSI Clutch

[AnthonyNTC3]

Sounds like a terrible idea to me... without a stronger pressure plate I don't see how this would make any worthwhile difference.

^^the clutch disc has more friction, therefore it holds more, even with the stock pressure plate.

even with this in mind. its a retarded idea unless you do it to a brand new car. (no wear on the clutch, pressure plate, and throw-out bearing)

why spend almost 357 bucks on a disk???? you still need to spend 550 on a new flywheel (can't resurface it) and if you pay for labor it costs anywhere from 500-750. so why not spend the extra150 bucks or so and get the full clutch kit (PP, TOB, and disk, and just request for an unsprung disk so you can keep the stock DMF) do the job once and do it right.

 

[Ricky Bobby]

^^the clutch disc has more friction, therefore it holds more, even with the stock pressure plate.

even with this in mind. its a retarded idea unless you do it to a brand new car. (no wear on the clutch, pressure plate, and throw-out bearing)

why spend almost 357 bucks on a disk???? you still need to spend 550 on a new flywheel (can't resurface it) and if you pay for labor it costs anywhere from 500-750. so why not spend the extra150 bucks or so and get the full clutch kit (PP, TOB, and disk, and just request for an unsprung disk so you can keep the stock DMF) do the job once and do it right.

Links to said clutch kit "unsprung" so I can keep DMF? And i'm assuming that whatever "kit" i use i have to buy a new stock DMF anyway right.


This is the route I would like to go, the southbend stage 3 disk (or something feeling somewhat equivalent to stock) w/stock DMF route eventually, I know i will need a fresh DMF though, and TOB etc.)

 

[AnthonyNTC3]

Links to said clutch kit "unsprung" so I can keep DMF? And i'm assuming that whatever "kit" i use i have to buy a new stock DMF anyway right.


This is the route I would like to go, the southbend stage 3 disk (or something feeling somewhat equivalent to stock) w/stock DMF route eventually, I know i will need a fresh DMF though, and TOB etc.)

to keep the DMF you want an unsprung clutch since the DMF is a harmonic/vibration dampener already. If you went with a sprung clutch (like most clutch kits out there) you would have duel dampening, and dampening at different rates. this would result in an extremely vague and rubbery engagement point.

The general rule of thumb:
-sprung clutch uses a solid flywheel
-unsprung clutch uses a DMF

 

[josein06gli]

hoping to make this happen with in the next couple weeks, ill report back how it feels and all that..

Reporting for duty Sir.

 

[dubbin]

^^LOL

Now, im gonna get a brand new oem clutch but pair it with the stg3 disc. I was informed doin it this way would ensure normal even wear on all th parts and will be able to handle power around the 400whp range. To me that is doin it right. If i could do this deal for about 650 that saves me 300$ roughly, which is great considering the upcoming things in my life i am preparing for. Just replacing the disc is a bad idea, but doin the whole clutch whether its oem or not is better than just changing out the discs

 

[BranCKY3]

Sure an upgraded disc might have more friction, but the clamping force is still the same. If there's one thing in life I wouldn't half ass, it would be a clutch. When you're talking a full day or two in labor if you DIY, I sure as hell only want to do that ONCE. My last car (big turbo Audi A4) I went overkill on the clutch - as long as it's full face the driveability stays wonderful and too much clamping force never hurt anyone.

 

[dubbin]

why does DBC advertise an increase in clamping force?

i just want to know, my knowledge is limited on clutches so im here to learn. Im takin "professional" advise from people, and this seemed logical. if you could explain that be fantastic actually. Espscially since i wont be DIY'n, i will be payin, which further more makes me want to do this once as its expensive.

 

[SlickGTIMKv]

^^^ By full face, do you mean rather than 3 puck, for instance? Interested because I had a S2 on my Maxima, and daily driving was over. That style clutch makes you 'race' where ever you go. You have to drive hard from a stop.

 

[BranCKY3]

Yea, full face meaning the clutch surface is a full circle. The puck style is way harder to drive smoothly. My roommate has a stage 2 spec (6puck I think) in his 337 GTI and the clutch travel is so short it's almost ridiculous - it's much harder to take off smoothly.

 

[BranCKY3]

why does DBC advertise an increase in clamping force?

i just want to know, my knowledge is limited on clutches so im here to learn. Im takin "professional" advise from people, and this seemed logical. if you could explain that be fantastic actually. Espscially since i wont be DIY'n, i will be payin, which further more makes me want to do this once as its expensive.

I honestly don't know. When I bought my old clutch for my big turbo Audi, I was originally going to get a Southbend kevlar disc, I think it was their stage 3 package. When I went to order it through my local Audi tuning shop, he suggested I upgrade to the stage 4 SS pressure plate with the stage 3 disc, since it had MUCH more clamping force for higher capacity of power. Sure, the pedal felt 50lbs heavier than stock, but after a week of driving it feels normal.. Keep in mind I was doing AWD 6,000 RPM clutch drops on that car and definitely wanted the most holding power I could possibly get, lol :thumbsup:

Since we're talking about clutches, WHY ON EARTH are MKV clutches so expensive? I paid less for a clutch and the labor to install on the Audi than just a clutch packages costs on the MKV. They're nothing special, I don't get it.

 

[dubbin]

ugh! tell me about it, stupid f*ckin pricey...i wish i knew man

ok i see what your sayin...im not draggin the car, but i do a lot of semi-aggressive driving if you will, like rapid accelerations and things of the sort. I dont launch the car or anything like that. Thats why i figured replacing the entire OEM clutch with a disc that can aid in clamping power would be a bit more "reliable." Again idk, i think i may have to do a bit more research/asking around from my local tuner....

 

[dubbin]

and obviously i dont want to sacrafice too much dd feel if any at all..

 

[SlickGTIMKv]

Yea, full face meaning the clutch surface is a full circle. The puck style is way harder to drive smoothly. My roommate has a stage 2 spec (6puck I think) in his 337 GTI and the clutch travel is so short it's almost ridiculous - it's much harder to take off smoothly.

Thought so. Just wanted confirmation. I WILL NEVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER GET multiple puck's again.

 

[dubbin]

^^^ dAmn that bad huh? Lol

 

[AnthonyNTC3]

i had a clutchmasters segmented disk clutch is it was better than a puck style clutch, but still noticably less smooth than a full face organic.