Meat's Brake DIY (w/ thanks to DanGSR)

[KrayzorGTI]

Hey Guys,

Quick question.... 08 GTI with 55k miles on it. Dealer recommended getting the rear pads changed out, and after 55k i'm going to assume they're correct. They recommended changing the rotors as well. It's not an issue, I plan on doing the work myself, and the rotors don't look difficult at all, just curious as to if you guys think it's necessary to change them as well. I don't know if I can measure them, obviously that would be the best way to tell. Any info would be great. Thanks in advance!

 

[anile_eight]

well a general rule of thumb is one set of rotors per two sets of pads. But the only real way to know is to take off the rotor and measure the thickness then compare it against what VW says is the minimum thickness. The pads yes, you ill probably need them around that as VW go through rear brakes like no other. But again, the only way exactly know is to look at the pads as best as you can either take it apart and look or if you can get a good view then you're set. As long as you still see pad left you are good.

I hope this helps some. Wasn't a really yes or no answer, more like decide on what you see.:thumbsup:

 

[nhbubba]

My VW, like most vehicles with disk brakes, has inspection slots where you can check the pad thickness without taking anything apart. All it takes is a pair of jack stands, a lug wrench, and a flash light.

I'm at 75k miles and on my original pads, front and rear. Mine doesn't eat rear brakes like most claim. But then I do mostly highway.

 

[the bruce]

well a general rule of thumb is one set of rotors per two sets of pads. But the only real way to know is to take off the rotor and measure the thickness then compare it against what VW says is the minimum thickness. The pads yes, you ill probably need them around that as VW go through rear brakes like no other. But again, the only way exactly know is to look at the pads as best as you can either take it apart and look or if you can get a good view then you're set. As long as you still see pad left you are good.

I hope this helps some. Wasn't a really yes or no answer, more like decide on what you see.:thumbsup:

agree !! :thumbsup:

It's not an issue, I plan on doing the work myself, and the rotors don't look difficult at all, just curious as to if you guys think it's necessary to change them as well. I don't know if I can measure them, obviously that would be the best way to tell.

If you feel able to change rotors you will be able to measure them before as well.

But don't think spapping rotors is too easy. You will need to loosen the caliper
carriers. The required torque is quite huge. Even more on rear there isn't much
space to work on the bolts.

 

[4Motioner]

But don't think spapping rotors is too easy. You will need to loosen the caliper
carriers. The required torque is quite huge. Even more on rear there isn't much
space to work on the bolts.

This! Get new XZN bolts for the rear caliper so you'll have them ready. I ended up having to weld a nut to one of mine when I did my rear brakes. VW use special bolts here that have locking teeth at the base of the head, so they really grip on and are a pain to remove. You can get more torque there on a lift but if you're using jack stands it's not nearly as easy. I used a 1 meter breaker bar to open mine and even with that you need considerable effort to break them loose.

 

[naughtyGTI]

Thanks but...

Loved the write up and after not working on a car for 6+ years it caused be to be confident enough to do my own brakes. However, I will say finding a M14 bit is a major project! I ended up knocking on the door of a guy with a Snap-On truck in his driveway. Thanks Meat! :bow:

 

[the bruce]

the best vid on the web:

http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/image.php?u=3234&dateline=1165294903

All the torque specs you need and some other:

http://blogvager.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/10-audi_a3_qsb_web.pdf

(A3 is the same)

 

[ik1015]

^Bruce! Great info PDF, Thx!
Saved :thumbsup:

 

[lightningjack]

Sorry to revive and old thread, but it is a great DIY. Been over 3 years and 50k so I figure I should bleed the system and while I'm there do new pads in the rear.

I did an old Nissan once and we had to screw the caliper pistons in counter clockwise. What's the direction for our cars?

 

[Rajini98]

Clockwise. The basic brake job tool kit should work. Not sure how anyone would do counter-clockwise without a reverse threaded kit

 

[lightningjack]

Clockwise. The basic brake job tool kit should work. Not sure how anyone would do counter-clockwise without a reverse threaded kit

Thanks! Was going to order the basic one from ECS. That Nissan was full of surprises. 4 cyl. but 2 plugs per cyl., having to screw the pistons into the caliper counter clockwise, bad bushing in the rear made the car hop like it was at the Compton swap meet.

 

[Red5pade]

Any ideas on getting the carrier on the rear off. I've tried wd40.... Cancel that. Bro in law broke the first one loose

I really need this done. They're rusted in bad


Sent from my iPhone

 

[g60_corrado_91]

Any ideas on getting the carrier on the rear off. I've tried wd40.... Cancel that. Bro in law broke the first one loose

I really need this done. They're rusted in bad


Sent from my iPhone

I've found PB works better. Spray it, let it sit for awhile. A torch/heat also does wonders on bolts that won't budge.

 

[Red5pade]

I've found PB works better. Spray it, let it sit for awhile. A torch/heat also does wonders on bolts that won't budge.

yeah, we tried that too actually. i was scared i was either going to break a bolt or break his ratchet cause i resorted to smacking it with a sledge. sob was on there good

oh, i got the job done btw.

 

[g60_corrado_91]

Glad to hear.