Meat's Brake DIY (w/ thanks to DanGSR)

[junker]

should be used ALL THE TIME

Thanks Dan :thumbsup:

 

[barische]

do one line at a time
it doesn't drip fast enough that you have to worry

Thank u

 

[barische]

For the SS lines, yea as Dan GSD said do one at a time and keep the cap on. I did all 4 without needing to top up the fluid. Make sure your line up the fittings properly though. That was not explained too well in the diy. There are slits for them to go into and slide up. Look at how and where the clip is and make sure you put it back in the same way to keep the line there. Overall it was pretty simple once I figured it out.

Appreciated

 

[anile_eight]

Not a problem. For normal braking there wasn't much of a difference, but when you get moderate braking + it was certainly very noticeable.

I swapped my brakes last weekend.. those M14 bolts took me an entire day to get off:
http://golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166423

 

[dr0pthehamm3r]

is the LF, RF, LR, RR bleeding order only for powerbleeder systems or is that also for manual bleeding as well?

I did my fiance's gti last year and i did it in the "furthest" order. I'm about ready to do my boxster fronts along with pads/lines/fluid for both F/R, on my jetta. Just want to finalizing thing in the correct order before i dig into everything.

Also, have an inboard and outboard nipple on the front calipers. I've read to start with the outside bleeder nipple first, then move to the inside bleeder nipple. Can anyone confirm?

 

[the bruce]

- subscribed -

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[Arcturus]

its a 15mm
but you need a thin one

Is thin absolutely necessary?

I have a regular width, but stubby length, 15mm wrench. I was hoping to swap pads today...

 

[VancouverGTI]

I remember it being a really narrow space, so I can see why you'd need a thinner wrench. I used a bike wrench.

 

[Arcturus]

Turns out my stubby wrench set does not include a 15mm, so I bought a bicycle cone wrench.

Only had time to swap the fronts today, but so far I'm loving the HPS pads.

Knowing that I can come to a stop more quickly allows me to push the car just a little bit more. Absolutely brilliant!

 

[VancouverGTI]

Glad you're enjoying yours as much as I am! They're a great upgrade for our cars. :thumbsup:

And thanks again to Meat for making it that much easier for us to do!

 

[Arcturus]

Finished the job yesterday. What a difference! Stock lines and fluid, but the pedal feel is much firmer and the pads bite like a shark.

Hawk HPS shall henceforth be known as: Stage 1 Brake Upgrade.

 

[irebound]

Just did the rears yesterday. Those M14 bolts were a pain to remove. Mine was kinda rusted from the Chicago winter.

 

[anile_eight]

Just did the rears yesterday. Those M14 bolts were a pain to remove. Mine was kinda rusted from the Chicago winter.

Yup... Mine took 8 hrs to get off. I know you're pain. Meat and I did his so many times I was hoping that mine weren't going to be that bad. But they were. I put some grease on the tip to hopefully keep it from rusting too bad.

 

[4Motioner]

VW use a serrated surface on the M14 bolts so once you tighten them, they will really stay in there. It took a 1 meter breaker bar to open 3 of mine! I ended up destroying the end on the 4th one so I had to weld a big nut to it to get it off. It's a good idea to get a set of new bolts from the dealer if you're doing this.

 

[chimchim]

Thanks for the DIY, Meat. This saved me hundreds of dollars.
Just one note, I know this has been mentioned on this thread already but its worth saying again. You will need a special tool that turns the piston while compressing it to do the rears. I bought one off amazon for about $35. Some auto parts stores also rent them out. No other tool will work - believe me, I tried them all. If you have the right tool it will take you five minutes to press back the rear pistons. If you don't have it, you will spend hours trying and failing to reset it (like I did). So do yourself a favor and buy, rent or borrow a piston reset tool BEFORE you start the job!