Custom Tuning Solution 2.0T FSI

[Bunnspeed]

I know, lol. I figured he'd try his reindeer games over there and realize how good he has it here. :thumbup:

 

[jjakimetz]

So this is really still happening? I found my answer to what to use to custom tune my car. This thread can be ignored now. Again a big thanks to all who provided useful information.

 

[Red5pade]

So this is really still happening? I found my answer to what to use to custom tune my car. This thread can be ignored now. Again a big thanks to all who provided useful information.

And what's the answer


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[jjakimetz]

And what's the answer


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The answer is that I can either switch to the stock intake that the tune was built around, or I can custom tune using Maestro 7. Custom tuning all the changes APR has made would take lots of time, and is not an immediate fix to my problem. Switching to the stock intake will remove all unknown hardware from my tune and thus cause proper AFR's when I get back to the dyno.

BTW, I went to my buddy's dyno shop and when he ran it the car got 13.3 AFR. This pretty much proves me right, the intake is bringing in more air, causing the car to run lean. So I am looking for a stocker for sale. Anyone want to buy an EVO MS from me? Going to have posts in FS thread as soon as I find a stock intake.

 

[Bunnspeed]

Keep in mind that there's an adaptation period with any change you make to the car, so after you go back to the stock intake (or so any change to the car's breathing for that matter),drive it for a while before you dyno it again as a/f ratios might take a while to become consistent. Do you plan on staying with a stock intake or going back to an aftermarket one at some point? Not every intake is going to throw your a/f ratios out of whack, either. The EVOMS is known for having issues while some others are not. Even if you prefer fine-tuning it by hand, selecting the proper hardware and letting the ecu adapt before tweaking the software might save you a lot of time and trouble, and should also net you more power over the stock intake, if that's of any interest to you.
I hope it all works out for you.

 

[Red5pade]

I'm not sure why but that answer sounds a lot like what we said in here. Glad you finally listened.


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[jjakimetz]

I'm not sure why but that answer sounds a lot like what we said in here. Glad you finally listened.


Sent from my iPhone

No one never said "Just switch back to the stock intake, because that is what the tune was designed for." You said "No point in tuning anything besides the APR tune, it will work with any intake just fine!" Which I knew was completely wrong. My tune is not working fine with my intake. I am getting bad AFR at WOT, indicative of the fact that my tune was not built for my intake, and something needs to be changed. Whether I get the stock intake, or whether I keep the EVO MS and tune for it, is not what I asked advice on. I asked advice on what the tuning options available for our cars are.

 

[jjakimetz]

Keep in mind that there's an adaptation period with any change you make to the car, so after you go back to the stock intake (or so any change to the car's breathing for that matter),drive it for a while before you dyno it again as a/f ratios might take a while to become consistent. Do you plan on staying with a stock intake or going back to an aftermarket one at some point? Not every intake is going to throw your a/f ratios out of whack, either. The EVOMS is known for having issues while some others are not. Even if you prefer fine-tuning it by hand, selecting the proper hardware and letting the ecu adapt before tweaking the software might save you a lot of time and trouble, and should also net you more power over the stock intake, if that's of any interest to you.
I hope it all works out for you.

Well, normally with turbo cars, the intake being stock is not a restriction at all. In fact, when not in boost, it can help keep better low-end torque. I feel like this may help a lot of people who have larger turbos, but are dealing with less low-end torque. The proper airflow laminar of the stock intake on the maf sensor is vital to the stock low-end torque that you know of. Why change that characteristic by changing what makes that low-end torque happen, unless you are able to custom build the tune for it?

 

[Red5pade]

The first reply talked about it. I'm not going to re read this thread but I'm sure more people said that. I'm pretty sure I said it even


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[jjakimetz]

lol ok

 

[Bunnspeed]

Let's agree to disagree, haha. :thumbup:

 

[U.G.MKV]

The answer is that I can either switch to the stock intake that the tune was built around, or I can custom tune using Maestro 7. Custom tuning all the changes APR has made would take lots of time, and is not an immediate fix to my problem. Switching to the stock intake will remove all unknown hardware from my tune and thus cause proper AFR's when I get back to the dyno.

BTW, I went to my buddy's dyno shop and when he ran it the car got 13.3 AFR. This pretty much proves me right, the intake is bringing in more air, causing the car to run lean. So I am looking for a stocker for sale. Anyone want to buy an EVO MS from me? Going to have posts in FS thread as soon as I find a stock intake.

So you're saying 13.3 is lean? 14.7 is Stoichiometric. 15.0 would be on the lean side. SO, with that being said your car is running a tad rich. This would be better than running lean.

 

[jjakimetz]

So you're saying 13.3 is lean? 14.7 is Stoichiometric. 15.0 would be on the lean side. SO, with that being said your car is running a tad rich. This would be better than running lean.

Except at WOT, you raise fuel to make power and prevent knock. In WOT situations, depending on the vehicle, you want an AFR of 11.5-12.5 for the safest power. Therefore in Wot situations, 13.3 afr is considered lean. I am willing to bet my car has tons of knock retard happening causing a loss of power. I know stg 2 is rates at 70 HP, but what should it make to the wheels?

 

[NJdubber]

Except at WOT, you raise fuel to make power and prevent knock. In WOT situations, depending on the vehicle, you want an AFR of 11.5-12.5 for the safest power. Therefore in Wot situations, 13.3 afr is considered lean. I am willing to bet my car has tons of knock retard happening causing a loss of power. I know stg 2 is rates at 70 HP, but what should it make to the wheels?

i can see by your posting you're speculating instead of getting facts. I recommend a vag-com cable so you can see what's going on with your car.

 

[U.G.MKV]

Except at WOT, you raise fuel to make power and prevent knock. In WOT situations, depending on the vehicle, you want an AFR of 11.5-12.5 for the safest power. Therefore in Wot situations, 13.3 afr is considered lean. I am willing to bet my car has tons of knock retard happening causing a loss of power. I know stg 2 is rates at 70 HP, but what should it make to the wheels?

I guess I misread your post but from what I've seen at numerous dyno days apr stage 2 runs right there with what you're seeing. And I agree with the vag com statement. Without proper logs you're only speculating.