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5000 mile service - rear brake pads gone.

Sayemthree

Ready to race!
Location
So Cal
replaced them under warranty and adjusted the hand brake. apprently the parking brake was set too tight and wore them down.
 

Jever

Ready to race!
Location
IL
Car(s)
2010 MK6 GTI
I always thought the E brake had its own brake/pad
 

R Usagi

" Say Uncle "
Location
Santa Clara, Ca
Car(s)
'07 UG 2 Door
Yep, most passanger cars use the rear brakes as the E brake or Parking brake. Growing up i was taught that the parking brake could warp drums and rotors if applied to overheated brakes when parking.

I know my big Rover uses a lage brake on the output of the transfer case instead of the rear brakes for parking, I am not sure of what other vehicles use that metheod.
 

RedRabidRabbit

I want FREE HAM!!
Location
Vancouver
Most rear disc's I've seen had a smaller drum inside the Rear disk hub for the parking brake.
Haven't seen the GTI setup.

It uses the same caliper/piston as the hydraulic (normal) brakes, but it uses it mechanically. This is why you need to push and turn the piston to retract it into the caliper when doing the rear brakes. It's not like the front where you can simply push it in.
 

theholycow

Go Kart Champion
Location
Glocester, RI
Car(s)
1980 Buick LeSabre
It's possible to drag the brakes enough to wear/warp/destroy them without having a noticable affect on gas mileage or performance. In fact, you'll notice smoke and maybe red hot wheels before you'll notice performance/mileage effects.

Between my truck whose parking brake gets frozen in the winter and all of my vehicles where others never seem to notice or understand the operation of the parking brake and drive off with it engaged, I've got lots of experience. :frown:
 

Sayemthree

Ready to race!
Location
So Cal
actually I noticed more power at about 4000 miles - I thought the engine was breaking in - maybe its cause the pads were worn down.
 

RHCPCraze

Ready to race!
Location
Brooklyn, NY
Hmm, i checked my brakes today, and i think i might be having an issue with my rear pads as well. My fronts look pretty much brand new (3200 miles on the odo), my rears however look like they are down to about 75%. How much thinner are the rear pads as opposed to the fronts new? Anyone have the spec on the nominal pad thickness?
 

MYGTI=FAST

Ready to race!
Location
New York
Car(s)
08 GTI MKV
does anyone know how to adjust the E-brake?
 

JetTurbo

geezer
Location
South Florida, USA
Car(s)
2018 GTi Autobahn 6M
brake pad thickness - hand brake adjust

...Anyone have the spec on the nominal pad thickness?

Front
New - Thickness 14 mm without backing plate
Wear indicator front left inboard pad - When wear limit is reached (limit: approx. 4 mm), the warning lamp lights up in instrument cluster
Wear limit: 2 mm without backing plate

Rear
New - Thickness 11 mm without backing plate
Wear limit: 2 mm without backing plate

The front brakes are larger diameter and there is significantly more pad surface area,
the front brakes do about 80% of the actual braking work.
Most American cars will wear fronts faster than rears,
even though the rears are typically much smaller.

However, the VW design engages the rear brakes with slightly more force than the front,
i.e. there is a rear brake bias built into the system.
The rear brake bias compresses the suspension more equally front to back - reduces nose dive.

As a result, VWs tend to wear the smaller rears faster than fronts.
Granted, 5k is way too fast.
In my case my rears were replaced at 60k.
One of the inner pads had reched 2mm thickness, all the others had 4-6 mm left.
None had failed.

my rear pads after 60k miles - the one at the upper right had reached 2 mm


I am now at 115k and my original fronts still look good,
although I have run upgraded Tyrol Sport caliper bushings in the front calipers since almost new.

front caliper with Tyrol Sport bushings, before snap rings are installed


Imagine I will be looking at a full set of brakes soon though.

does anyone know how to adjust the E-brake?

A new adjustment is necessary only after replacing brake cables, brake calipers or brake discs.
There is no need to adjust the parking brake after making initial adjustment,
the design inlcudes an automatic rear brake adjuster.

Remove center console to gain access to the adjusting nut
(there are other diy on how to do that).

Operate foot brake forcefully at least three times.

Apply the parking brake 3 times and then release.

Parking brake lever in rest position.

Tighten adjustment nut ...


...until lever - 1 - on brake calipers lift off from stop - 2 - .

The distance - a - to stop - 2 - with outer and inner brake pads resting on the rotor, no brakes engaged,
must not be less than 1 mm and not exceed 3 mm.

Check that both wheels turn freely.
 
C

chaslupo

Guest
Rear bakes wearing premature

I have a 2007 GLI Fahrenheit, and the rear pads wore around 39,000 miles this past April. Since I didn't hear a sensor alerting me enough in advance, I could not get the service done at my local VW because of time constraints. This chain location serviced the rears with what was supposed to be their best pads and rotor package. However, last week (9/10/10) (I also experienced premature wear, even given the fact I drive 50 miles one way to work, stop and go on the parkway). I happened to be at VW the day before to get my 50,000 mile service performed, when they alerted me to the rear brakes. I immediately contacted the shop I went to. These pads were semi-metallic and the rotors and pads were worn almost to their respective ends. I too suspect they were dragging, either by the e-brake not adjusted properly, or some other reason. Relative to the original pads, my rotors were always too hot, sometimes overheated, there was always too much brake dust. I now have ceramic pads and new, solid rotors in the rear. I have noticed better gas mileage too, so there may be something to all this. In any case, I would like to know how to adjust the e-brake cable as well. I used to do it no problem on my GM vehicles as a kid. I am hoping it is that easy again.
 
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