The passenger side front I find to be the hardest just because of its orientation with the knuckle and the FSB endlink.
With that said, the 2x4 method is by far the easiest way to get them out.
Getting them back in with the 2 x 4 method is super sketchy though unless you're going really low. My buddy that helped me almost took a 2 x 4 to the hand when we overshot the hub and 2 x 4 slipped off.
I'm thinking ratchet straps on the springs would be safer.
Are you not using the modified 2x4 method with a hole drilled for the endlink bolt?
It doesn't have to compress it that far. Just the last little bit since the hub drops so far.
See...I always had the easier time on the passenger side. The strut doesn't wanna rotate.The passenger side front I find to be the hardest just because of its orientation with the knuckle and the FSB endlink.
With that said, the 2x4 method is by far the easiest way to get them out.
I, personally, always use new ones.
No point in pairing old parts with new ones, that'll be your weak link. It's a giant rubber bushing, essentially, btw.
But if you wanna be cheap...I'd keep it under the 20k-30k mile range. Unless you want to tear down the suspension again to replace them in the future.
Do it one time and do it right, IMO
Great job! Question on the torque specs, not questioning the validity, but what is the source? Some are quite different than the ones I’ve collected.
Also, what strut spreader do you have there? I’ve only ever seen the bit style. Fancy. ?
Also, in the first post the tightening spec for the front pinch bolt is incorrect. I believe it should be 70Nm (52 lb/ft) + 180° additional turn instead of 90°.
Keep in mind that info is a few years old now. I think I got it off of the DAP video. That said, just getting to 90 takes a fair amount of muscle, even using a 1/2” breaker bar. I’d honestly be worried about snapping the bolt if I went to 180. ..but that’s what it says in the repair manual?
An extra 2-3 ooga doogas?
Let’s be real, it’s a time consuming PITA...but hey, glad it helped. ?Just want to say thanks for this thread. I'm a shade tree mechanic, and with this info and a 2x4 was able to get my springs installed with relatively no fuss.