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Spring rate testing orgy

bostonaudi

Go Kart Champion
Location
Charleston, SC
Car(s)
1995 BMW M3
So, in my spring rate testing orgy of late, I've tested a bunch of combos. These are all in the context of a street car that's a daily driver that hits the track occasionally. These are not rates that would generally apply to a stripped out dedicated track car with roll cage etc. I used stock upper strut mounts, with Audi TT control arms with the TT bushings, so front and rear suspension still linked to body through rubber.

The 450's and 350's are 7" length, the 300's and 250's are 8". All are straight linear 2.5" inner diameter from HyperCoil:

front rear
450 350
450 300
350 350
350 300
300 250
300 350

General conclusions: the front of these cars are very sensitive to rate changes. With higher rates it whacks bumps and smaller cracks and fissures in road are all felt. I felt 350 on front was about the most you want to run for a daily driver that hits an autocross or track once in a while. 300 is about perfect, plenty firm and the edge is taken away, smoother and compliant with bumps. At the 450/350 rate my track times were identical (1:47's) at Road Atlanta with the previous 350/300 setup so I did not see any performance advantage at that venue. The car also got more upset running over the gators at turns 3 and 5. It did feel a little better with tighter springs coming down turn 12 as that's a compression corner but it didn't help overall time. I had sway bars set in middle for both spring rates. Even with 450 front, the car felt better with Hotchkis bar in middle.

For the rear, you can run higher rates to help suggest tighter turn in and rotation without incurring as much harshness as front. At 250 rear, its smooth, but perhaps a little soft, 300 better, and 350 makes car turn in very well. Gets a little harder on bigger bumps but manageable.

The 450/300 test was interesting, I ran this combo at VIR and the car was very tail happy coming into turn 1. With a flick of the wheel the rear would come around quite easily. While fun, it wasn't the ideal setup. At 450 front, the Eibach's need to be set near full rebound to control them.

The 350/350 is a good combo as well, a little more aggressive, not a bad ride on the street, handling quite neutral. This is the combo H2Sport is shipping with the Ohlins.

300/250 felt very good on the street, smooth and firm, and you feel the ride of the shock more than the spring. Rear felt like it needed a little more tightness.

With 300/350, the rear is tight, front not crashy at all, car feels a bit like my old 84 GTI with a big rear bar, wants to dive into corners! Rear is a little stiff but manageable. Having the Unibrace with the tighter rear springs seems to work great. Staying with this combo for now for next track event coming up at CMP. CMP has some rough spots that the 450 front springs really didn't like, especially coming out of turn 13, ripply pavement that caused loss of traction accelerating to turn 14.

Eibach supplies the R1 kit with 275f/300r, which isn't bad, the only real issue I had were the supplied springs in my kit were too short, front and rear were 7", at those rates they need to be 8" to avoid coil bind in the front and to have enough ride height in rear. So in a sense I circled back to their original rates, with a slight tweak of +25 to fronts, +50 on rears, with a 1 inch increase in length front and rear.

So for anyone shopping for coilovers for a good daily/occasional fun car, rates around the 300 lb/in range will work well, as long as the damping quality is good ride will be firm and not crashy. With these spring rates the damping very much determines the ride quality, so again get best damping you can afford. Bilstein PSS-10's come with very similar rates as well, and should work great. AST and H2Sport are also using rates in this ballpark. I would not suggest anyone get rates such as the KW Clubsport or H&R RSS Clubsport unless car is more or less a dedicated track rig and you don't want to compromise (and don't have whiny wife or GF).

Note that if you are going to venture into the world of very high rates, I'd suggest getting a kit already setup from the start this way (like Clubsports) or custom springs from a company like Eibach. When you get into a range of 600 or more, for the front the springs need to be very short, and a straight linear spring won't always cut it. For that rate a bell shaped spring (usually what comes in most coilover kits for fronts) is typically better as it will have more travel, and Eibach can supply ERS springs in that shape. You can have a company like Ground Control help with a custom setup as they have Eibach make springs for them in pretty much whatever configuration they require.
 

Dynjo

Ready to race!
Location
Chicagoland
Great info! Thanks.

For comparison, do you know what the stock spring rates are?

On a related note, I once read that the best NASCAR drivers tend to gravitate towards spring rates that are softer than what the less-capable drivers choose. The theory is that the softer springs can provide better mechanical grip by being able to follow the road surface a little better, but it takes a lot more finesse to manage and anticipate the greater body movement that comes with the softness.
 

bostonaudi

Go Kart Champion
Location
Charleston, SC
Car(s)
1995 BMW M3
Great info! Thanks.

For comparison, do you know what the stock spring rates are?

On a related note, I once read that the best NASCAR drivers tend to gravitate towards spring rates that are softer than what the less-capable drivers choose. The theory is that the softer springs can provide better mechanical grip by being able to follow the road surface a little better, but it takes a lot more finesse to manage and anticipate the greater body movement that comes with the softness.

I seem to recall stock is in low 200's, but they have variances for everything, 2 or 4 door, DSG or not...

I think that's a good way to put it. Also as many of these threads repeat over and over, no substitute for seat time.
 

the bruce

Go Kart Champion
Location
land
Car(s)
Golf GTI Mk.V 2008
I agree with Boston that near 300 feels fine. It may ride little harsh on bad roads and
a bit soft on some tracks, but all in all it's a great compromise most of us can live with.
Remember the dampers have a huge impact on ride quality.


ps:
Stock GTI springs are in the 200 lbs range.
 

bostonaudi

Go Kart Champion
Location
Charleston, SC
Car(s)
1995 BMW M3
I should add the obvious in that ride height plays a factor in how car rides. As you lower the rubber bushings become more and more bound, which makes car bouncier and harder. Not to mention the shock rubber stopper. If in doubt, disconnect one of the rear lower control arms, take spring out and disconnect shock. Try to move wheel hub up and down. The stock rubber bushings don't want to move in the direction you want them to, and do move in directions you don't. For a real track car the stock bushings are basically fail.
 

miamirice

Ready to race!
Location
Miami

bostonaudi

Go Kart Champion
Location
Charleston, SC
Car(s)
1995 BMW M3
If I were shopping suspension for an mkv that is daily and sees a little fun track duty, I would give these a look..

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3083921

That's the R2. Similar to R1 but with double adjustable damping. Same spring rates as R1. I sorta kicked myself for not spending the extra $500 to get these.

In that thread they claim the damping is good to very high spring rates, perhaps on the R2. I found with the R1 I had to set the rebound on fronts with 450's pretty high, 1 click down from full hard before I felt they were well controlled.
 

miamirice

Ready to race!
Location
Miami
That's the R2. Similar to R1 but with double adjustable damping. Same spring rates as R1. I sorta kicked myself for not spending the extra $500 to get these.

In that thread they claim the damping is good to very high spring rates, perhaps on the R2. I found with the R1 I had to set the rebound on fronts with 450's pretty high, 1 click down from full hard before I felt they were well controlled.

Yep. That thread is full of time attack and Honda challenge running 1000lbs + rates.
 

Perpetuus

Data Encryption
Location
In my garage
Totally agree with this for the softer spring rates. You want to reduce the tendency for the tires (and hence, the sprung mass on top) to bob up and down (or heave) over the road, while at the same time having the springs and dampers work together properly to exert enough force on the tires to maintain optimal road contact with the weight of the car. For this reason, achieving good grip and handling while maintaining good ride comfort are not totally divergent goals.

For this reason, I would rather go slightly lower on spring rate than go too high on the spring rate. Of course, the right dampers is key too :)

Great info! Thanks.

For comparison, do you know what the stock spring rates are?

On a related note, I once read that the best NASCAR drivers tend to gravitate towards spring rates that are softer than what the less-capable drivers choose. The theory is that the softer springs can provide better mechanical grip by being able to follow the road surface a little better, but it takes a lot more finesse to manage and anticipate the greater body movement that comes with the softness.
 

miamirice

Ready to race!
Location
Miami
Totally agree with this for the softer spring rates. You want to reduce the tendency for the tires (and hence, the sprung mass on top) to bob up and down (or heave) over the road, while at the same time having the springs and dampers work together properly to exert enough force on the tires to maintain optimal road contact with the weight of the car. For this reason, achieving good grip and handling while maintaining good ride comfort are not totally divergent goals.

For this reason, I would rather go slightly lower on spring rate than go too high on the spring rate. Of course, the right dampers is key too :)

The first part of your statement doesn't make sense. The car will "bob up and down" more with softer springs, and if you want the dampers to deal with this motion more than they should you are now rebuilding dampers soon. You also now must raise ride height unless you never use curbing, never transition onto banking, never drop a wheel, and don't mind radical weight shift under threshold braking or chicanes.

If the discussion is regarding performance you want as much spring is required to lower the car, reduce body roll, prevent dampers from hitting bump stops without having the car over sprung and having it "skip" in the corners, all while having MATCH valving in the dampers.

NASCAR set up for Ovals is about as relevant to road racing set up as Rally car is IMO.
 

GodSquadMandrake

Radioactive Rotary Rocket
Location
Minneapolis
Did somebody say orgy?

Thanks for the experiments Bostonaudi.
 

bostonaudi

Go Kart Champion
Location
Charleston, SC
Car(s)
1995 BMW M3
The first part of your statement doesn't make sense. The car will "bob up and down" more with softer springs, and if you want the dampers to deal with this motion more than they should you are now rebuilding dampers soon. You also now must raise ride height unless you never use curbing, never transition onto banking, never drop a wheel, and don't mind radical weight shift under threshold braking or chicanes.

If the discussion is regarding performance you want as much spring is required to lower the car, reduce body roll, prevent dampers from hitting bump stops without having the car over sprung and having it "skip" in the corners, all while having MATCH valving in the dampers.

NASCAR set up for Ovals is about as relevant to road racing set up as Rally car is IMO.

Agree with your statements except first part. A car with softer springs will have the wheel bob up and down over bumps rather than the body, which leads to why your following statements are all true. With a softer spring you need more height and travel to keep from coil binding or shock hitting bumps. Watch an old Caddie go over bumps - wheels flail up and down while driver still floating along sipping a nice Henessey.

Once any pretension of my ride being a daily ends i will be going after much more aggressive setup.
 

miamirice

Ready to race!
Location
Miami
Agree with your statements except first part. A car with softer springs will have the wheel bob up and down over bumps rather than the body, which leads to why your following statements are all true. With a softer spring you need more height and travel to keep from coil binding or shock hitting bumps. Watch an old Caddie go over bumps - wheels flail up and down while driver still floating along sipping a nice Henessey.

Once any pretension of my ride being a daily ends i will be going after much more aggressive setup.

I guess the way I wrote it you are right but I am sure you know what I was after. It will end up developing a harmonic motion if you want to see it, watch video from the sebring 14 hour coming up Hilaroius to watch crap cans going 120 mph into turn 17 and developing a rythem from the WWII airport seams that have never been fixed Eventually they start to pogo off the bumpstops Its fun to eatch them handle the car when this is happeing

The most civil car I track is a 2800 lbs s2000. It's on 700lbs springs.

In my book if you can't jack one side of the car from a single jack pad and lift both wheels, its on soft springs. Of course, "the stiffer the better" is false thinking, but the ranges being discussed here are very civil.
 
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