Rear Hatch Power

[soze]

I think mine might be failing. Lately my latch intermittently doesn't unlock.

 

[Spectre]

My shit doesn't work anymore. My hatch. Then the other day after driving it for awhile, it worked. Hasn't worked the past few times. PITA to do anything.

 

[rolo402]

has happen to be for 2nd time last year this time I used aviation wires.

 

[soze]

has happen to be for 2nd time last year this time I used aviation wires.

those wires more durable?

 

[langer]

Soldered in wires will fail quickly unless you get the joints in a place where there is no flexing at all. I did a solder job and it failed in about 6 months. Ended up replacing whole harness.

 

[soze]

I there any reason why you can't replace the flexing section with replacement wire and use plug connectors at both ends where there is no flexing? That way if the replacement fails... just get another strand of wire, hook up plug connectors at both ends and plug to the existing modified harness with plugs.

Still haven't gotten around to this. Hard to have any time to do anything with 3 year old running around.

 

[Muahaahaa]

I there any reason why you can't replace the flexing section with replacement wire and use plug connectors at both ends where there is no flexing? That way if the replacement fails... just get another strand of wire, hook up plug connectors at both ends and plug to the existing modified harness with plugs.

Still haven't gotten around to this. Hard to have any time to do anything with 3 year old running around.

Theoretically you could, but its about as much work as just replacing the entire harness.

Anyone have a wiring diagram for the driver side harness? Starting to happen on my .:R, but I can't identify the problem wire. Wiper and lights work fine, latch does not..

 

[soze]

So last weekend, I set aside time to work on this issue. Upon removing the rubber hose, I discovered that the wires themselves were in ok shape and intact. Only the rubber housing of the wire was splitting/cracking etc. I figured my issues were probably from unprotected wire coming into contact with each other. I ended up sealing off each individual strand of wire and wrapping it all back up.

Hatch seems to work fine now.

 

[soze]

So last weekend, I set aside time to work on this issue. Upon removing the rubber hose, I discovered that the wires themselves were in ok shape and intact. Only the rubber housing of the wire was splitting/cracking etc. I figured my issues were probably from unprotected wire coming into contact with each other. I ended up sealing off each individual strand of wire and wrapping it all back up.

Hatch seems to work fine now.

 

[JetTurbo]

... Anyone have a wiring diagram for the driver side harness? Starting to happen on my .:R, but I can't identify the problem wire. Wiper and lights work fine, latch does not..

I might be able to get my old XP computer running to pull it from the Shop Manual. But,
Chances of it being a bad wire or being a bad latch are about equal.
The latch mechanism will fail just about as often as the wires.
i.e. why not test it at the latch?
At the very least, with the interior cover off the hatch,
you can see the wires attached to the latch and identify their color codes,
as well as follow the harness to the hatch exit.

My mk5 never experienced failures in the rear harnesses,
but both my rear wiper motor and the latch failed.
My latch was damaged by washer fluid leak from the rear wiper/washer assembly.

There are two screws (in the cover's handle recess) and ten trim clips holding cover in place.
Those trim clips are and absolute pain to release.

 

[Muahaahaa]

Yeah, that was the second thing I checked. Issue seems to be with the contact itself. The white plastic piece is worn down to the point where it doesn't always close the switch:

 

[soze]

Yeah, that was the second thing I checked. Issue seems to be with the contact itself. The white plastic piece is worn down to the point where it doesn't always close the switch:

So.... hatch started acting up again, and I decided to take a look at the latch. Opened it all up and tested locking the latch and clicking on the trigger with my finger to unlock the latch. Worked every single time. I thought I might have the same issue with you, but when i lifted the latch it wasn't like it didn't press the trigger down. It did, and made an audible click, but maybe it didn't press it down far enough. Anyway after fiddling with it for a while, it started working all the time with the latch. I don't know if me pressing on the metal trigger somehow got it back into position or what. The only other thing I can think of is maybe the connector on the plugs didn't have a good connection. So I did a pre-emptive spraying of de-oxit (anti-corrosion) on a cotton swab and proceeded to coat the connector contacts.

Put everything back together and latch works all the time now. Not exactly sure what I did to fix it, but I guess just the fact of me taking the latch out fixed something that might have been loose or of that nature.

 

[moee79]

I have the same trunk not working with key fob or switch on the driver's side door.

1 i tested with a new lock but it doesn't work either.
2 looked at all the visible harnesses and wires in them but all of them look fine.
3 there are no visible rust or loose connections
4 brake lights and rear wiper all work fine
5 have a brand new battery

Next i will try and clean and reconnect the wires.

What else could I check? I'm a newbie with electricity and grounding so a little help would be appreciated.

Thank you!

 

[JetTurbo]

I have the same trunk not working with key fob or switch on the driver's side door.

1 i tested with a new lock but it doesn't work either.
2 looked at all the visible harnesses and wires in them but all of them look fine.
3 there are no visible rust or loose connections
4 brake lights and rear wiper all work fine
5 have a brand new battery

Next i will try and clean and reconnect the wires.

What else could I check? I'm a newbie with electricity and grounding so a little help would be appreciated.

Thank you!

So if I read that correctly,
You are unable to open your hatch in any way?

Neither the key fob or the interior switch open the hatch,
they simply unlock it so that the badge/latch can open it.
And the key fob center button must be held a few seconds to work,
that is a protection against accidentally unlocking the hatch from the fob.

 

[moee79]

Well yes i had the car for a long time so i know how to use both the switch and fob. I have tried holding the fob for longer times, have tried using both at the same time, and so on. And i possibly read all the forums on the issue. Only things I havent done is electrical diagnosis which I need help with, and vagcom reading which I will be doing in the next few days when I meet my friend that has a vagcom.

I just remembered that this started happening last summer when it was hot and it gradually stopped working. I remember because I had to crawl inside the steaming hot trunk all the time to manually open it. Perhaps something melted somewhere? Circuit board? Fuse?