0bLiViOuS
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Orange County
Ok good to know! Did you ever add in more tranny fluid?
7
MK7 GTI SE MT6 DIY CLUTCH REBUILD GUIDE HS TUNING RSR CLUTCH
- Thread starter SHCKR
- Start date
SHCKR
Ready to race!
- Location
- North Carolina
about to do it right now, i'm somewhat curious to see exactly how much it takes. I thought about flushing the whole thing while i'm at it, but it's $42/liter.... seems wasteful.
SHCKR
Ready to race!
- Location
- North Carolina
Here is where the fluid level was when I started:
Here is what I used to deliver it, about $10 at advance, worked like magic, after reading all the suction pump reviews saying that they leak all over the place, and that fluid is expensive
And here is the after picture. Didn't need much.
Here is what I used to deliver it, about $10 at advance, worked like magic, after reading all the suction pump reviews saying that they leak all over the place, and that fluid is expensive
And here is the after picture. Didn't need much.
SHCKR
Ready to race!
- Location
- North Carolina
UPDATE: I've put about 300 miles on the clutch, and I still experience slight rattling noise at initial engagement, and I've been having this subtle grinding noise when at low speeds, below 2000 rpm. So after miles of testing and just trying to figure out wtf is going on, I finally called HS Tuning this morning and asked for their opinion.
After describing what's going on, and describing the parts that I received, they came to a realization that somehow for whatever reason (I ordered by phone, not online) they sent me a kit for a MK6, not a MK7. If you read the posts above, you know that they didn't look the same, and also the bolts for the dogbone are different. Well, the MK7 kit has the correct throwout bearing and the correct length bolts.
HS Tuning has been extremely understanding and helpful. They are overnighting me the correct parts, and refunding a considerable part of my purchase price, excellent customer service. This definitely should not deter new potential clients, in-fact it should attract more, since I believe if I have had it installed elsewhere, they would have paid the full service price to whoever to re-do it. (He offered)
Crappy thing that I gotta rip it apart and do it again, however this time around it's going to be much quicker and easier. Anyone in NC wants some practice?
After describing what's going on, and describing the parts that I received, they came to a realization that somehow for whatever reason (I ordered by phone, not online) they sent me a kit for a MK6, not a MK7. If you read the posts above, you know that they didn't look the same, and also the bolts for the dogbone are different. Well, the MK7 kit has the correct throwout bearing and the correct length bolts.
HS Tuning has been extremely understanding and helpful. They are overnighting me the correct parts, and refunding a considerable part of my purchase price, excellent customer service. This definitely should not deter new potential clients, in-fact it should attract more, since I believe if I have had it installed elsewhere, they would have paid the full service price to whoever to re-do it. (He offered)
Crappy thing that I gotta rip it apart and do it again, however this time around it's going to be much quicker and easier. Anyone in NC wants some practice?
erikweber321
Ready to race!
Wrong parts? Hmm...
The "slight grinding" sound at low RPMs sounds a lot like you're describing basic "clutch chatter" in the gearbox. This is something which *should not happen with a dual mass flywheel* and *will only happen on a dmfw when it's failing/failed, specifically the elastomer bonding allowing too much play and less absorption*.
Did he mention which pieces specifically were different? Clutch disc or PP are different??
For the rattling sound, I get that at sub 1k engagements (something the dmfw used to eat up) but I'm fairly certain this is due to my smfw, my stiffened dogbone mount and me trying to be too soft on engaging the clutch. Maybe I just described something completely irrelevant to your "rattling sound", but I figured I'd give you the heads up. Sounds like, at a glance to me, that could be related to the dogbone mount.
Let me know how that loctite is coming apart this time
The "slight grinding" sound at low RPMs sounds a lot like you're describing basic "clutch chatter" in the gearbox. This is something which *should not happen with a dual mass flywheel* and *will only happen on a dmfw when it's failing/failed, specifically the elastomer bonding allowing too much play and less absorption*.
Did he mention which pieces specifically were different? Clutch disc or PP are different??
For the rattling sound, I get that at sub 1k engagements (something the dmfw used to eat up) but I'm fairly certain this is due to my smfw, my stiffened dogbone mount and me trying to be too soft on engaging the clutch. Maybe I just described something completely irrelevant to your "rattling sound", but I figured I'd give you the heads up. Sounds like, at a glance to me, that could be related to the dogbone mount.
Let me know how that loctite is coming apart this time
SHCKR
Ready to race!
- Location
- North Carolina
The pressure plate and the disc are the same for mk6 and mk7, the throwout bearing and the bolt kit are different. I agree with the flywheel rattle, however it didn't exist prior to replacing the clutch, so I don't understand why it's there now. As far as grinding, it's the metal part of the bearing grinding against the pressure plate, I'll take pics once I take it back apart.
erikweber321
Ready to race!
can't wait for the pic porn
I'm just surprised that your burnout situation was actually not as bad as mine was!
Damn that grinding sound *shudder*
The rattling sound though; for me, the whole car really vibrates, and i mean like it's a god damn train vibrating because I engaged the clutch at too low RPM with a stiff engine. If your rattling sound doesn't come with REAL obvious powerful vibration making you think (like in the 034 dogbone thread) that "something MUST be broken"), then it's probably unrelated.
SHCKR
Ready to race!
- Location
- North Carolina
So i hate to say it, but you were right. The rattling sound that I was experiencing is definitely the flywheel, and now the movement is much worse, about 3-4 teeth worth, (https://youtu.be/74q9kNyfyJo).
The other sound that I was experiencing, the grinding sound, is definitely the throwout bearing grinding against the pressure plate.
On another note, someone has been asking about what size the flywheel bolts are, they are 12mm triple square, T55 torx fits in there, but it only has 6 points, not 12, so it doesn't quite grip right. I'm actually going to have to order the correct tool, i simply measured the t55 and converted it to metric. This is what I ordered and the 12mm fits. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007UQLR9U?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Here is what it looked like when I took the tranny back out (only took 3 hrs this time, not too bad)
MK6 on the left, MK7 on the right, see the difference?
Also, check this out, it's not wearing evenly on the pressure plate, gonna contact HS see what they say.
And to answer your question, the loctite wasn't that bad, since I used blue, not red.
Last edited:
0bLiViOuS
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Orange County
Great follow up man. I guess we know the flywheel can't be reused usually. Planning on getting my DP then clutch so I'm hoping I can reuse mine. I've been babying it since I put on my JB1.. Well almost babying it
erikweber321
Ready to race!
you said MK6 on the left, mk7 on the right. Did you also mean southbend on the left, mk7 on the right?
Also, the break-in period requires the user to essentially let it engage under completely normal driving at least ~100-200 times before a "clutch drop" or "launch" is attempted because the clutch disk's material must 100% settle under normal operating pressure. That clutch disk isn't 100% mated to both PP + FW out of the box, and needs to be squeezed a bunch first to become fully flat. Launches and power acceleration with an un-broken-in-disk will result in smaller surface area trying to handle the full brunt of the engine, almost 2x what its frictional coefficient could be if it were only 50% contacting.
How many miles have you gone with it and how long did it take you before you tried a fast N-1? A spoiled disk could harden up prematurely on those pressure spots and never flatten fully (which would also spell out early clutch death guarantee). Not sure if yours is this case, I'd have to go compare online first
Also, the break-in period requires the user to essentially let it engage under completely normal driving at least ~100-200 times before a "clutch drop" or "launch" is attempted because the clutch disk's material must 100% settle under normal operating pressure. That clutch disk isn't 100% mated to both PP + FW out of the box, and needs to be squeezed a bunch first to become fully flat. Launches and power acceleration with an un-broken-in-disk will result in smaller surface area trying to handle the full brunt of the engine, almost 2x what its frictional coefficient could be if it were only 50% contacting.
How many miles have you gone with it and how long did it take you before you tried a fast N-1? A spoiled disk could harden up prematurely on those pressure spots and never flatten fully (which would also spell out early clutch death guarantee). Not sure if yours is this case, I'd have to go compare online first
SHCKR
Ready to race!
- Location
- North Carolina
No both are rsr throwout bearings, the one on the left is the first one they sent me, the one on the right is the correct one. I haven't dropped the clutch at all yet, easy starts, trying not to go over 3500 RPM.
erikweber321
Ready to race!
I'm pretty sure I got the one on the left as well for my stage2+, are they sure it's the wrong one??
SHCKR
Ready to race!
- Location
- North Carolina
Well obviously they refunded a bunch of money and sent me a replacement........
It may be different since I have the RSR, we have different clutches, remember.
pocketrocket2015
Passed Driver's Ed
Did you reuse your stock flywheel or ordered a new OEM?
My clutch is slipping and I'm at 22000 miles. I'm on a budget so I didn't want to buy a new flywheel if I didn't have to thanks. Thanks for the write up!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My clutch is slipping and I'm at 22000 miles. I'm on a budget so I didn't want to buy a new flywheel if I didn't have to thanks. Thanks for the write up!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
SHCKR
Ready to race!
- Location
- North Carolina
If you read the thread, you'll see that I've re-used the original flywheel, however by accident HS tuning sent me a wrong year model clutch kit, so I ripped it back apart 500 miles later to replace the throwout bearing, at which point I checked the flywheel again, and it's gotten progressively worse, so I'm replacing it. Just ordered one from VWVORTEX for $600 including 3 day shipping. That's the cheapest place you'll find.