difference between neuspeed and ecs pulley kit?

[Moosecakes]

A lightweight pulley with an amp is going to stress the alternator a lot. I highly recommend having your alt rebuilt to a higher output if you want to run a different pulley. Amps pull A LOT of power and people don't seem to realize just how much.

It's not much to have them rebuilt, at least here. It was like $50-60 when I was looking into it for my BMW.

Is a lightweight pulley seriously worth the extra cost though? I'm considering throwing one on when I do my timing belt change in a few months since i'll be in that area. I know less rotating mass is the best way to free up power.

How is spool and throttle response effected? If it'll knock off even 100-150rpm's of spool time, IMO that's worth it. If not then meh.

 

[Bunnspeed]

I'm guessing pulleys would make more of a difference on K04 or BT cars that take longer to spool and which feel sluggish at low rpms off-boost. Once you're in boost I doubt you'd feel much of a difference, but cars with more turbo lag should probably notice better throttle response off-boost with a pulley (or lighter wheels or lighter flywheel, for that matter), and the lighter rotating mass should help get you into boost more quickly since it'll help the revs climb faster and therefore get you into the powerband more quickly.

The K03 doesn't seem to ever be out of boost, so stock turbo guys might not find this upgrade as worthwhile, unless you're someone who lost some bottom end throttle response when you went to Stage 2. A pulley might help get some of that throttle response back. It might also be more beneficial with DSG than with a 6MT since 6MT lets the driver blip the throttle or slip the clutch a little to help compensate for sluggish throttle response.

Also, pullies would probably be the sort of mod that will improve the car's subjective performance more than measurable performance. You're likely to improve the car's drivability (reduced lag, better off-idle response, etc.), but won't likely improve its measurable performance at a drag strip or peak hp numbers on a dyno by very much. Pure speculation on all of the above, btw, so please correct me if any of my assumptions are incorrect. I'd love to hear more pullied guys chime in.

FWIW, I had a lightweight underdrive pulley on my old auto-x 98 Neon and it made a big difference in performance. It definitely helped throttle response and helped it get into its powerband more easily. It was one of the best mods I did to that car. I'm definitely curious to hear more info about whether or not they're worthwhile on a mkv.

 

[Moosecakes]

I may have to scoop one up and do some testing, granted im only a k03, but im nearly maxed out.. W/M injection and my intake is all I have left to do.. A pulley is cheap.

I'm looking into clutch/flywheel options next to prepare going BT. Debating single mass lightweight flywheel and a spec twin disk or the like...

 

[trialerror00]

:w00t:^ I would love to see what kinda test results you come up with. Please keep us posted.

 

[Moosecakes]

:w00t:^ I would love to see what kinda test results you come up with. Please keep us posted.

As soon as I can justify buying a pulley over buying new brakes haha I will definitely let you all know. I'll run vag com logs of boost etc before/after once I get it.

 

[Bunnspeed]

Not sure how much of a difference you'll actually see with logs. For instance, while it might come into boost more easily with a pulley, you won't necessarily change the rpm at which you come into boost, you will just get to that rpm sooner. A few extra hp when you are off-boost should help the car pull harder until you hit the rpm needed to spool.

Here's a thread on the Douche Tex that someone should probably bump. It has a worthwhile How-To for the pulley, some side by side pics of the pulley and the factory pulley, a few useful posts explaining how the pulley works, and some utter shit misinformation from several posters as well:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...with-this-(DIY-Install-Neuspeed-Power-Pulley)

Notice how some people are obsessing about the theoretical small hp gains. Like I said, you don't buy one of these to have a massive change in your peak hp, you buy them to improve throttle response at low rpm and off-boost. Funny how people balk at the idea of putting on a pulley for less than $200 but have no problems with throwing on a $200-$500 air intake. :bonk:

Questions/ concerns I still have, which the thread leaves unanswered are: Does the factory pulley serve as some sort of harmonic balancer? If so, I wouldn't mess with it or it could cause bearing issues. I have a feeling the motors are internally balanced, but maybe others can weigh in. Will the A/C continue to blow cold enough to deal with 90+ degree temperatures? Does it shorten the life of the battery or alternator significantly?

 

[junker]

Max power is going to be dictated more by tune request (ie. fueling, timing, followed by air flow which on our cars is secondary to fueling. We basically get enough air for the K03.

But when you press that throttle and it takes 1 one thousand, two one....wait there it is vroom. That is what is better, and the fact that you aren't spinning a 5 lb weight at 6500rpm every revolution your motors spins with parasitic drag maybe worth a couple HP at high rpm.

The weight loss in and of itself is not trivial on our FWD cars either. Yank a hood liner here, a pulley there, a lightweight battery and that is 40 lb off the front.

 

[Bunnspeed]

Max power is going to be dictated more by tune request (ie. fueling, timing, followed by air flow which on our cars is secondary to fueling. We basically get enough air for the K03.

But when you press that throttle and it takes 1 one thousand, two one....wait there it is vroom. That is what is better, and the fact that you aren't spinning a 5 lb weight at 6500rpm every revolution your motors spins with parasitic drag maybe worth a couple HP at high rpm.

Thank you for explaining this so succinctly. That's exactly what I was trying to say, only with more jibberjabber. :thumbsup:

 

[junker]

Thanks bro. I'm all agro today and being super direct with everything. No time for all this disinformation! haha

 

[Gab.B]

I talked to Jack from ECS Tuning and he confirmed me that ECS power pulley ARE the same size than OEM and it should not stress the alternator like a smaller PP. I hope he was right, because I ordered it.:biggrin:

 

[Moosecakes]

The weight loss in and of itself is not trivial on our FWD cars either. Yank a hood liner here, a pulley there, a lightweight battery and that is 40 lb off the front.

hahah already done! Just need the pulley part haha.

brakes and wheels are the next best for rotating mass elimination. As well as flywheels.

 

[junker]

hahah already done! Just need the pulley part haha.

brakes and wheels are the next best for rotating mass elimination. As well as flywheels.

I won't clutter this thread about brakes but check out my ultimate brake thread. Get cheap rotors (if needed), rear pads (if needed),and ATE fluid, but get great front pads and tyrolsport caliper bushings. 1g+ stops. Best upgrade ever.

 

[Moosecakes]

I won't clutter this thread about brakes but check out my ultimate brake thread. Get cheap rotors (if needed), rear pads (if needed),and ATE fluid, but get great front pads and tyrolsport caliper bushings. 1g+ stops. Best upgrade ever.

I need all new brakes, rotors and pads actually, well shortly. I'm still doing research, but I want any and all rotating mass that can be lost for an affordable price lost. The tyrolsport bushings are on the list though!