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6spd DSG for dummies - Funny's unofficial guide

funny

VCDS guru & soon Dad x2 !
Location
Sydney
Car(s)
Golf MkV GTI MY07
A lot of people on forums have questions about the DSG gearbox and in particular do notice, or complain of, a "hesitation" when getting going with it. Or they may find that it takes an inordinately long period of time for it to change up or down a gear. This guide is aimed at providing more understanding of this unique gearbox.

I'm not a mechanic, but info for this thread has been gained through personal experience and trawling forums such as this.

The 6-speed DSG (Direct Shift Gearbox) is a twin multi-plate clutch gearbox with gears 1, 3, 5 ,R on one transmission unit and 2, 4, 6 on the other. The gearbox can predictively decide which gear you are likely to go to next and get it ready, so that when you decide to shift it can (almost) seamlessly switch from one gear to the next with minimal delay (8ms is quoted by VW IIRC).

In this way it is a lot more akin to a manual gearbox than a traditional automatic with a torque converter.

How it works

To see more details about the workings look here:

You can see the actual gearbox working in this YouTube vid at 1:49

If you aren't convinced about the speed of DSG vs manual check this Youtube vid.

For the rest of us, I'll assume you know what the basic workings are and I'll explore what/how the DSG mechatronic brain does/thinks.

Statistics for 6-speed DSG 02E
  • 350Nm max torque handling as officially quoted by VW
  • 7.2L of gearbox oil
  • Wet-type multi-plate clutch
  • 1st and Reverse gear use the same gear wheel
  • Max temperature for DSG oil 135degC, torque reduced when temp over 138degC and clutches opened as failsafe above 145degC

The DSG "brain" - the mechatronic unit

VW said:
The control unit uses information such as engine speed, road speed, accelerator position and driving mode to select the optimum gear and to determine the ideal shift point. The hydraulic control unit then implements the shift commands in a complex sequence of individual, precisely coordinated actions.

VW said:
The decision as to which gear should be engaged next is taken by the control unit based on the position/operation of the accelerator, engine speed and vehicle speed. If the accelerator pedal is pressed and the vehicle accelerated, the next-highest gear will be preselected before the shift point is reached. If the accelerator is not operated, however, i.e. the vehicle is in overrun, the next-lowest gear will be preselected.

Hill holder function - if the vehicle begins to move when stationary, light brake pressure increases clutch pressure to halt movement.

Creep regulation - allows movement of the vehicle without pedal input (e.g. for parking)


Peculiar points about DSG

Warm-up phase

As the 6-speed DSG is a wet box it does take time for it (especially oil i guess) to warm up. This means that shifts can feel a bit cluncky or take longer depending on how warm it is. Once it's warmed up there really should be no problems with the speed of its shifts.

Over-rev protection

The DSG gearbox will not allow you to over-rev the engine thereby preventing damage. Unlike a manual gearbox where you could shift into an excessive RPM range by mistake the DSG will not change until the RPM drops sufficiently to allow a gearchange which will put the engine speed into a safe zone. For example hitting the gearstick or paddles in 2nd at 6000rpm to change into 1st will result in nothing happening until the engine speed drops sufficiently.

As part of this protection system there is a limit to how long you can hold the engine speed at or above redline as the DSG will upshift to put you into the next gear.
I suspect this may only happen IF the pedal position dictates that more accelerative effort is required.
I suspect that if the pedal position is low (e.g. low throttle thru corner to do shift at corner exit) then the DSG will allow holding of the engine speed a little longer.
I have not confirmed this as yet.

Rev matching

The DSG can request the ECU to increase engine speed to allow smoother downshifts. This is akin to a manual driver "blipping" the throttle or what would happen when you "heel-toe" increasing engine speed to reduce the time required for synchronisation. If you are altering the rate at which the engine speed drops (e.g. by staying on throttle) you can find that downshifts either take a long time or do not occur at all.

1st into Reverse gear

As 1st and Reverse gears share the same gear wheel and an additional reverse shaft is required quick changes from 1st into Reverse or vice versa are not really possible. Situations where this might be required e.g. motorkhana or stunt driving would be better suited by a manual gearbox.

Fuel saving methods

One of the ways in which the DSG allows better fuel consumption over a manual gearbox is the ability to disconnect it's clutches when no engine effort is required. This occurs when the brake pedal is depressed (e.g. at stop light) and also when driving on a straight road when no pedal input is detected. When braking the clutches do not disengage unless the car is at a complete standstill.

The fuel injectors are also cut when no pedal input is detected also saving fuel. It is easy to see when you have the "instantaneous" fuel consumption figure in your MFD showing - it will be 0.0 when you take your foot off the pedal whilst moving.

An unfortunate side effect of this is a common complaint of "hesitation" when taking off from a standstill. This is because there is a delay between the DSG being told the brake pedal is no longer being depressed and it re-engaging the clutches.

Ways around this include:
  • Easing off the brake rather than quick release. The "Hillhold" function means that under partial brake application at standstill clucthes are engaged. This means that at partial brake, the clutches will be connected allowing instant power transfer.
  • Tapping the throttle to "wake up" the DSG and cause it to connect the clutches. The DSG will stay awake for 1-2 seconds before it disconnects clutches again if you still have your foot on the brake.

This also means that one must take car when on an incline. Hillstarts are different with the DSG compared to a traditional automatic. You cannot simply lift your foot from the brake and quickly transfer it to the throttle. All that will happen is you will roll back (no clutch engaged right at beginning) with the 1st gear clutch spinning up and causing wheelspin when it suddenly engages if you have hit the throttle to hard.
A better way is to use the e-brake for your traditional "proper" hill start, or a dual foot method of light throttle combined with easing off the brake - for a seamless takeoff without ANY rollback.
 
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funny

VCDS guru & soon Dad x2 !
Location
Sydney
Car(s)
Golf MkV GTI MY07
part #2

How the DSG anticipates gears

This is really quite simple and common sense.

Below is an adaptation of one of my previous posts:
http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showpost.php?p=761893&postcount=18



DSG uses some fuzzy logic to determine what it will do.
Bear in mind that on a downshift it needs to rev match for a clean/quick shift. If it's not there, then it has to increase the revs before a shift, slowing it down. Don't forget that it takes longer to increase revs when you're sitting at 1200rpm as compared to 2500rpm+

As for usphift, you can catch it out depending on throttle position and action. For example, if you try to upshift as you release throttle, the DSG will take longer to upshift as it's confused. Don't forget that if you are upshifting, it generally means to want to increase speed (as different from accelerate faster) - and releasing throttle doesn't add up for the DSG. Of course if you are higher up the rev range, then the delay is less for an upshift. If you are low throttle, low rev range and releasing throttle as you upshift - it will take a damn long time to shift. BUT don't forget, so would you in a manual under the same conditions (same actions required).

In summary - the DSG's thought process (based on my observations):

Downshift
"Uh downshift, eh?"
Am I going to do something stupid (like change to 8000rpm)?
NO = continue on.

Am I at the correct revs for shift
NO = release clutch, rev up, transfer to clutch with new gear
YES = transfer clutch immediately (i.e. 8ms)

Upshift
"Wanna go faster eh?"
Will I stall?
NO = continue
YES = wait for driver to put enough throttle on to allow shift

Was I thinking you would downshift based on experience?
NO = release clutch and transfer to alternate clutch with new gear instantly (i.e. 8ms)
YES = oops, select correct gear on alternate shaft
& THEN release clutch and transfer to alternate clutch with new gear instantly (i.e. 8ms)

DSG Status/Action list based on throttle position/throttle action:

Low/Release
"Slowing down" - might need to downshift, will need to increase revs but hell it'll take a while to get to the right revs

Low/Steady
"Cruising" - selected alternate gear dependant on rev range, i.e. high = higher selected, low = lower selected

Low/Increasing
"Speeding up" - get ready for upshift

Mid+/Release
"Slowing down" - might need to downshift, will need to increase revs but I can do it quickly

Mid+/Steady
"Cruising" - might speed up = get ready for upshift

Mid+/Increasing
"Going quick!" - get ready to upshift; but if I have to downshift it's ok too as he/she is already increasing revs

As you can see from the logic the DSG doesn't usually get it wrong. It's just the real world sometimes forces us humans to make different/dumb decisions!

I'm sure you will notice that changes higher up in the rev range are quicker then those lower down when you "catch out" the DSG.

DSG "Recalibration"

Some people have noted that DSG shifts can become rough or jerky over time. This can also occur if you get "chipped". This could be due to the learned values for the DSG (that is clutch pressure, etc. NOT the shift patterns) being incompatible with the current situation, whether it be wear and tear or higher torque than expected.

The procedure to reset the DSG values with VAGCOM/VCDS and allow the "one-off" adaptation to occur is contained here:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/6-Speed_Direct_Shift_Gearbox_%28DSG/02E%29

Alternate methods that have been suggested include:

  • Disconnecting battery for sufficiently long period, e.g. 30mins.

    I have my doubts as to whether this REALLY works. It will reset the shift patterns and ECU learning/fuel trims as well so there is no way to tell whether the DSG has been recalibrated until later on (when you can see if the rough shifts persist or if they disappear).

Another method suggested is:

ok I'll give you step by step how to do it.

1. turn on your car to accessory mode, and wait for all the warning lights to stop flashing and he mfd to return to normal

2. Once everything has stopped blinking, put your foot on the gas pedal, and push it all the way to the floor

3. Hold this position for about 10 seconds, then let off

4. While doing this, or after you let off the pedal, you should hear a "click" sound. This now resets your transmissions learning process, and starts it over again. a.k.a. BRAND NEW CAR EXPERIENCE!

I don't know if this really resets the DSG or if it resets the ECU, resets fuel trims, resets throttle pedal input/response or resets something else. This is something that has been suggested on the forum but I don't know the source of this information.

"Bad" DSG Mechatronic units

There are now numerous reports that DSG boxes have had to be replaced (under warranty). However I suspect the large number of problems reported by customers could probably be rectified by the recalibration of the DSG. It's unclear how many units have been replaced but given there must be many thousands of units out there, replacing the odd one here or there isn't bad at all for an electromechanical device!
If you're having problems - do yourself a favour, recalibrate the DSG first!
Problematic DSG units typically become very rough when shifting (i.e. clunky), particularly reported are shifts between 1-2 and 2-3 especially the downshifts.
There are also other possible reasons for a "clunky" DSG one of which is loose engine mounts.

Getting "chipped" and your DSG

VW's claimed maximum torque handling is 350Nm.
There are many DSG owners running higher torque through the DSG without apparent problems. Whilst this does not indicate that there isn't a problem or increased wear & tear internally it does show that the DSG is capable (at least in the short term) of more than what is stated.
Some reflash companies also alter the ECU output to the DSG to solve "problems" with DSG shifting. This could be an attempt to override in-built DSG safety mechanisms by telling the DSG that the torque being transmitted is less than what is being delivered (my assumption). Whether this is true and if it has any problems in the long term remains to be seen.

Launch Control

Available from MY07 onwards (and to suitable MY06 DSG units with appropriate mechatronic units that are reflashed at request through dealer) this allows you to take off from standstill like high-end cars (e.g. lambo) do. It is equivalent to a "dropping the clutch" type start in a manual car.

The procedure is:

1) Car at standstill, DSG in Sports or Manual mode and warmed up, engine at IDLE and no pedal input
2) Depress brake pedal firmly and turn off ESP
3) Now you can push the throttle to rev the car up to a limit of 3000rpm. Clutch engages a fraction of a second after the brake is fully released. This means the best timing will be to release the brake just before you need to go.

Note that if the engine is not at idle revs (e.g. you did everything but pressed the throttle and rpm went up and/or you are waiting for rpm to drop) then you will not be able to get LC to work UNTIL the car has sat there for a short while (couple of seconds) with all conditions satisfied (as per #1 and #2).

If you do not have the LC function you will only rev to 1500rpm or so and feel the car wanting to lurch forward as for a traditional automatic gearbox equipped car.

Technical Service Bulletins (aka TSB)

Transmission, DSG*, Intermittent Engagement Delay Upon Acceleration
http://golfmkv.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12848&d=1183571351
 
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Tiny Gti

Banned
Location
London UK - Hometown: Sydney AUSTRALIA
Car(s)
05 GTI MKV DSG 5DR
All i can say people need to use Manual Mode in DSG more!:biggrin:
 

Capercat

It's a chuck-about
Location
Location :)
"Mechatronic's"....being an electrical engineer, this term scares me :yikes:

If the electronics f@#k up in the gearbox, time to take out a second mortgage.
 
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mose6161

OUT OF COMMISION
Location
.
Car(s)
MK5 GTI
wow awesome job! people like you keep this forum from being one giant rick roll video or ken block video.

i'm going to read it again!
 

funny

VCDS guru & soon Dad x2 !
Location
Sydney
Car(s)
Golf MkV GTI MY07
All i can say people need to use Manual Mode in DSG more!:biggrin:

True.

But I did this as there are so many threads on "does you dsg do this?" or "dsg problem" or the like.

Hopefully this can be a resource for people to understand DSG so they can get over it's little idiosyncrasies and get on with working out how to get the most out of it!

Manual mode is good for GTG/drives.
I like doing the "stick it in D" but occasionally hit the paddles when I need a little zoom. Then just let it get back to doing it's own thing.

Use "D" for what it's meant for - make traffic a Dream!
 

Booba

Ready to race!
Location
Brisbane
Thanks funny good writeup. I am about to recalibrate my dsg as soon as in reinstall vcds.. Getting clunky shifts and its a bit jerky taking off sometimes.

Will let everyone know if it goes allright.

Booba.
 

James G

Spool makes me drool.
Location
Bunbury, WA
Car(s)
'06 CW GTI 3DR
Wooo!

:clap:

Good write up funny, interesting read :biggrin:
 

BarneyBoy

...and it's only a 1.4?
Location
Adelaide
Car(s)
Mk5 Golf GT
Great write up - I gonna bookmark this! :thumbsup:

One thing though - and it's prolly just a matter of definition - "The fuel injectors are also cut when no pedal input is detected..." is something I see quoted quite a bit.

Some folks claim 100% fuel cut off and stand by this claim because of the MFD readout of 0.0 l/100km when coasting.

I'd maintain that the injectors switch to an 'idle' phase (ie not cut off) and use VERY LITTLE fuel rather than none at all. After all, what would run your A/C, your GPS, your CD player, lights &c? - especially over extended periods? Also the engine would need to repeatedly 'bump start' every time the throttle is touched.

In addition, we all know how accurate the MFD is :lol:
 

chaddy

Ready to race!
Location
Wollongong, Australia
Car(s)
R32
Nice write up Eugene:thumbsup:
 
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