darcness
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Grand Blanc MI
- Car(s)
- 2008 GTI CW
Here's the rundown to date:
7.26.08 - Start of project
Well, today I started the dreaded job of gutting my brand new CW GTI. I wasn't looking forward to it, but couldn't justify spending the money to have some one else do it. At least when I do it, I know it's done right.
First, a little background. I formerly drove a Buick Regal (99) w/a CarPC setup. After getting my fast, I decided I couldn't stand being with out my 120GB of music, my weather updates, and internet in my vehicle. I already have the PC in a car friendly box I made myself out of MDF. I also already own the amps needed, an Alpine MRP-M500 for the sub (Pioneer 305DVC 12"), and an OLD school PPI Sedona 630IX 6-channel. I use the PPI for my active setup on the front Phoenix Gold RSD 6.5's and Infinity Tweeters. Because I already had all this, this project will take a lot of time, but most likely very little cost out of pocket.
I'm going for a mostly OEM, very clean look. All the wires will be hidden, the LCD (already own an 8" touchscreen) will be molded into the dash where the stock radio was. The sub and amps will installed in a false floor or some other way to hide all the wiring and the PC will be put into a new custom case that should allow me to save some hatch space.
I will be running the front speakers (the 6.5's, and the tweeters) fully active like I did in the Regal. This allows me full time alignment, driver balance for all speakers, and crossover controls for each set of speakers. I also use a 10-band EQ for fine tuning and have a subwoofer volume control. All this is controlled at the touch screen by the PC and gives me complete control of my sound right at my fingertips.
In time, I'll be adding an engine diagnostic cable to allow me to monitor my fast real time and reset/read codes or tune if need be. Also, I want to hack the Sirius receiver and have sat radio on my CarPC as well. Lastly, I want to add GPS capability to the setup. This will come later, for now, I just want my music back!
I started today by tearing apart the door trim, the rear panel (2 door) and taking out the rear seats. I got my 4g power wire ran through the firewall, and back to the hatch. I got my ground done in the hatch and also hooked up my power and ground distro blocks. I ran the remote wire as well. I tip for y'all, which I've read here before. That cigarette lighter plug in the hatch is a SWITCHED 12v power source. Perfect for remote wires or any other switched +12v you may need. If you trace it from the lighter back to the panel where all the wires are, I believe it's easy to identify.
After getting all the amps done, I decided to go ahead and run the PC stuff. I got the VGA cord ran, the USB cord and the 4-port USB hub installed in the center console. I also decided to tie the PC into my ground and power distro blocks and hide all the wire mess under the floor in that foam where the spare tire and tools are.
Finally, I managed to get one of the door panels off just to see how they operate. I ended up running 2 sets of speaker wire to the door sills and up to where the grommet for the door is. Tomorrow I'll most likely end up running the wires into the door, just ran out of daylight today.
I did run a "cheater" wire from my rear stock 6.5 speaker today for the high power inputs on my Alpine amp. I just needed a sub for the time being. Sounds good for now. Once I have the comps installed in the door I'll go ahead and let the PC feed this amp the signal. For now, at least I have some low end.
I'll snap pictures tomorrow and post again with my progress. For now I've got pretty much all the wiring done and had a great day with a bunch accomplished. I will say that I did much better than I thought I would. I only managed to break 2 things. When taking the dead pedal off, I broke the bottom most "L" bracket because I didn't know it was screwed on, under the panel on the left side. It's still solid without the clip so no worries. I also managed to break the plastic cover on the rear seat hinge cover. I had no idea how to get this off without breaking it. The torx screw is directly under it, and has to be removed to get the back seats out. Without removing the seats you can't remove that plastic piece. Hence the conundrum I faced. Oh well, can't see it anyway.
If anyone has any comments, questions, or tips (NEED THESE) please feel free to comment. Like I said, I'll be taking pics and keeping a running work log of my progress as I go. Should be a neat learning experience and will look and sound great when it's done. Stay tuned!
7.26.08 - Start of project
Well, today I started the dreaded job of gutting my brand new CW GTI. I wasn't looking forward to it, but couldn't justify spending the money to have some one else do it. At least when I do it, I know it's done right.
First, a little background. I formerly drove a Buick Regal (99) w/a CarPC setup. After getting my fast, I decided I couldn't stand being with out my 120GB of music, my weather updates, and internet in my vehicle. I already have the PC in a car friendly box I made myself out of MDF. I also already own the amps needed, an Alpine MRP-M500 for the sub (Pioneer 305DVC 12"), and an OLD school PPI Sedona 630IX 6-channel. I use the PPI for my active setup on the front Phoenix Gold RSD 6.5's and Infinity Tweeters. Because I already had all this, this project will take a lot of time, but most likely very little cost out of pocket.
I'm going for a mostly OEM, very clean look. All the wires will be hidden, the LCD (already own an 8" touchscreen) will be molded into the dash where the stock radio was. The sub and amps will installed in a false floor or some other way to hide all the wiring and the PC will be put into a new custom case that should allow me to save some hatch space.
I will be running the front speakers (the 6.5's, and the tweeters) fully active like I did in the Regal. This allows me full time alignment, driver balance for all speakers, and crossover controls for each set of speakers. I also use a 10-band EQ for fine tuning and have a subwoofer volume control. All this is controlled at the touch screen by the PC and gives me complete control of my sound right at my fingertips.
In time, I'll be adding an engine diagnostic cable to allow me to monitor my fast real time and reset/read codes or tune if need be. Also, I want to hack the Sirius receiver and have sat radio on my CarPC as well. Lastly, I want to add GPS capability to the setup. This will come later, for now, I just want my music back!
I started today by tearing apart the door trim, the rear panel (2 door) and taking out the rear seats. I got my 4g power wire ran through the firewall, and back to the hatch. I got my ground done in the hatch and also hooked up my power and ground distro blocks. I ran the remote wire as well. I tip for y'all, which I've read here before. That cigarette lighter plug in the hatch is a SWITCHED 12v power source. Perfect for remote wires or any other switched +12v you may need. If you trace it from the lighter back to the panel where all the wires are, I believe it's easy to identify.
After getting all the amps done, I decided to go ahead and run the PC stuff. I got the VGA cord ran, the USB cord and the 4-port USB hub installed in the center console. I also decided to tie the PC into my ground and power distro blocks and hide all the wire mess under the floor in that foam where the spare tire and tools are.
Finally, I managed to get one of the door panels off just to see how they operate. I ended up running 2 sets of speaker wire to the door sills and up to where the grommet for the door is. Tomorrow I'll most likely end up running the wires into the door, just ran out of daylight today.
I did run a "cheater" wire from my rear stock 6.5 speaker today for the high power inputs on my Alpine amp. I just needed a sub for the time being. Sounds good for now. Once I have the comps installed in the door I'll go ahead and let the PC feed this amp the signal. For now, at least I have some low end.
I'll snap pictures tomorrow and post again with my progress. For now I've got pretty much all the wiring done and had a great day with a bunch accomplished. I will say that I did much better than I thought I would. I only managed to break 2 things. When taking the dead pedal off, I broke the bottom most "L" bracket because I didn't know it was screwed on, under the panel on the left side. It's still solid without the clip so no worries. I also managed to break the plastic cover on the rear seat hinge cover. I had no idea how to get this off without breaking it. The torx screw is directly under it, and has to be removed to get the back seats out. Without removing the seats you can't remove that plastic piece. Hence the conundrum I faced. Oh well, can't see it anyway.
If anyone has any comments, questions, or tips (NEED THESE) please feel free to comment. Like I said, I'll be taking pics and keeping a running work log of my progress as I go. Should be a neat learning experience and will look and sound great when it's done. Stay tuned!