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WALK install issue

TypeR_126

Ready to race!
Location
Concord, CA
Car(s)
GTI
I had the best luck with loosening (or completely removing) ALL the subframe bolts, including those that sandwich the main subframe with the front bushing horns and steering rack and swaybar. Then you'll want to put them back in and tighten them all in a pattern, with a few turns each. Each you just throw in a couple and tighten them all the way you'll always be fighting the alignment on the others.

FWIW, the Tyrol deadset collars will help quite a bit in this regard.
 

kruegernaut

I'm from Detroit, Man...
Location
Washington
FWIW, the Tyrol deadset collars will help quite a bit in this regard.

I'm really hoping for that TypeR. With the Tyrol kit already in, Im hoping my LCA brackets will just drop right off and go back on with any subframe craziness.

OP, if you can spare the cash, get the dead-set kit while you are in dry dock and do this all at once, if you have any intention of getting it down the road. Only take that subframe down once if you can.
 

flat tire

Go Kart Champion
Location
USA
Car(s)
Electric + 135i
I would get the deadset kit, but I'm unsure how necessary it is. I haven't had any subframe clunking since I did the ECS fix. Thoughts?
 

kruegernaut

I'm from Detroit, Man...
Location
Washington
I hear ya, I didnt have the clunk yet either. I did not try the ECS spacers because other threads suggested they don't last. But I like being preventative. Really this is the thread that sold me on the deadset kit.

http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48759

I couldnt believe how much play was in the subframe bolt channel. Once I saw those pics, I couldnt sleep at night, lol.. I installed with an upgraded front sway so I cant speak to the enhancement by itself, but, the car felt much tighter in the front end. Hard to describe. If you already have your subframe down, might as well get it and never worry about it again.

Edit: If you do order the kit, be sure to get the WALK option. The two collars for the WALK LCA brackets are special fit I think.
 

flat tire

Go Kart Champion
Location
USA
Car(s)
Electric + 135i
Can anyone confirm the deadset kit works with the WALK, since it removes ability to align the subframe?
 
Lots of guys running WALK and the deadset kit together. You just have to get the gen 2 WALK collar kit when you order it. Check out this thread.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6068795-HYDE16-Reviews-Whiteline-Anti-Lift-Kit-(WALK)

If you have (or buy 2nd hand) the original collars, you can get the WALK compatible collar upgrade for $25 shipped from tyrolsport, or you can just get out your dremel and cut off some of the flange on the ones you have already.

I bought 2nd hand, will do the dremel thing. Because i am a cheap bastard.

My plan is to use painter's tape to make a template of the WALK, then lay it on the collars and use a sharpie to mark the area to cut off.

(SO cheap, I bought my WALK 2nd hand for $40 with wrecked bushings, will get around to buying new bushings via amazon for $80 when i get around to it.)
 
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flat tire

Go Kart Champion
Location
USA
Car(s)
Electric + 135i
While getting ready to order the WALK-compatible deadset kit, I noticed there is a separate option for the GLI. What's the difference, and can anyone confirm the WALK works on MK5 GLI?
 

flat tire

Go Kart Champion
Location
USA
Car(s)
Electric + 135i
I took a look at the car today and since the original RCABs fit perfectly I'll just get a new set of those and sell the WALK. Don't want to mess with the hassle of doing the subframe while the car's on jackstands as there's very little clearance and it's a pain in the ass. PM me if you want WALK for a good price.
 

flat tire

Go Kart Champion
Location
USA
Car(s)
Electric + 135i
'02 P38 4.6 with coil spring conversion. Other than the air suspension the truck's been very reliable, and drives well although it's way slower than the GLI. Unfortunately the 4.6 motors have a block porosity issue which eventually results in total failure and the motor has already been replaced once around 100K miles due to this problem. I'd like to eventually convert the drivetrain to electric with 1 motor per wheel but that's probably another 5-8 years down the road.

Ended up getting S3 RCABs, btw.
 

TwentyonePSI

Crody
Location
Toledo
Car(s)
FSI
'02 P38 4.6 with coil spring conversion. Other than the air suspension the truck's been very reliable, and drives well although it's way slower than the GLI. Unfortunately the 4.6 motors have a block porosity issue which eventually results in total failure and the motor has already been replaced once around 100K miles due to this problem. I'd like to eventually convert the drivetrain to electric with 1 motor per wheel but that's probably another 5-8 years down the road.

Ended up getting S3 RCABs, btw.


Very cool. I have a Disco 1 with an ARB bumper, SD rack, 3" lift, and STTs on Wolf wheels.
 
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