interesting... I just cut the plastic tabs off the connector... flipped it around and works like a charm, and no bulb out warnings! No resister needed!
Swapping the pins allows me to maintain the connector locking mechanism - it is still unmolested stock.
Apparently the LED bulb you used had enough curent draw to not require the resistor. :w00t:
Do you have any detail on the bulb you are using? like a link to the manufacturer's web site listing for the part?
I used the same lamp generic83 used. I did add a switched load to support a LED lamp in the right backup light.
I wanted to put the switch in the most logical place - very near the lamp socket that it is switching the load. One of the tail light housing mounting bolts is used to hold one leg of the switch mount. The switch and its mount sit slightly lower than the backup lamp socket. No interference with the trim or its mounting, fits in that space well. On the other hand, I did not want the resistor that close to the backup lamp, so it is a safe distance away, mounted on an inner panel with good air space to dissipate its 25w heat load.
A similar blind void exists in the rear hatch lid for mounting the resistor.
switch - resistor - splice
BTW For the backup light LED I used a 3 Watt Luxeon 1156 15mm Bayonet Base bulb - white - pn 1156-WLX3 from superbrightleds.com .
Description on the
superbrightleds.com order page of the web site is
1156-xLX3 Luxeon LED bulb, the lower x is replaced by the color designator.
click on image for tech spec - 1156-xLX3 is 1st on the list