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Rebuilding a 2.0 TSI after timing failure *Skies the limit, no budget*

clgodwin79

Go Kart Champion
A crate motor would be twice the price, at a minimum. And why replace the bottom end when it’s fine? It’s all about a faulty timing circuit that usually causes the issue. And with the bottom end being bad it seems like a waste of time and money to do a complete engine swap, at least in my opinion.

And I may have got a really good deal on this car, but by the time I paid for a complete engine swap I’d still only have a car that was worth what I put into it.

Plus, it’s a lot more satisfying to take something that most people are scared of or think is a trash or junk engine, and put it back on the road running reliably but without breaking the bank.

I paid $2k for the car and literally just ordered everything I need from Shipdap, which costs me $3,300. But I’ll get $600 of that back when I send the core head back. Which will put me right around $4,700. But I’ll just round up to at least $5k because I’m 100% positive that there will be other unknown expenses. Like for instance the battery is dead from sitting. Maybe I can bring it back and maybe not.

So $5k for a $10k ish car and the satisfaction of doing it when most are scared to, but without being half assed at all or cutting corners. For me, it gets me into the VW scene and gives me a great project for my 15 yo son and myself to work on. I can keep and drive it for a while, and then maybe eventually sell the car and have made money. How many people can HONESTLY say that they made any REAL money from a modern vehicle? Not many that I know.

So those are MY reasons for doing the top end.
 

clgodwin79

Go Kart Champion
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Like stated above, parts on order!!
 

Joe_Mama

Autocross Champion
I swear I'm not being a smartass...Why not just get a crate motor?
Double the cost with no benefit.

Ok, another question. What’s the best place to find the factory service manual for this vehicle. Electronic or physical format I guess.

I’ll obviously need that for specifics on the job as well as torque specs. Thanks again guys!
I have some manuals I may be able to post later
 

Joe_Mama

Autocross Champion
Here you go:
 

Attachments

  • 2013 Golf, GTI & Golf R Quick Reference Specification Book.pdf
    3.4 MB · Views: 293

GolferGTI12

Ready to race!
A crate motor would be twice the price, at a minimum. And why replace the bottom end when it’s fine? It’s all about a faulty timing circuit that usually causes the issue. And with the bottom end being bad it seems like a waste of time and money to do a complete engine swap, at least in my opinion.

And I may have got a really good deal on this car, but by the time I paid for a complete engine swap I’d still only have a car that was worth what I put into it.

Plus, it’s a lot more satisfying to take something that most people are scared of or think is a trash or junk engine, and put it back on the road running reliably but without breaking the bank.

I paid $2k for the car and literally just ordered everything I need from Shipdap, which costs me $3,300. But I’ll get $600 of that back when I send the core head back. Which will put me right around $4,700. But I’ll just round up to at least $5k because I’m 100% positive that there will be other unknown expenses. Like for instance the battery is dead from sitting. Maybe I can bring it back and maybe not.

So $5k for a $10k ish car and the satisfaction of doing it when most are scared to, but without being half assed at all or cutting corners. For me, it gets me into the VW scene and gives me a great project for my 15 yo son and myself to work on. I can keep and drive it for a while, and then maybe eventually sell the car and have made money. How many people can HONESTLY say that they made any REAL money from a modern vehicle? Not many that I know.

So those are MY reasons for doing the top end.
That alone is a really good reason for this project. I did a full engine rebuild with my Dad last year on my GTI and it was an absolute blast so it makes me happy to see others doing the same thing.

As for this project it seems like you have a really good grasp on what youre doing / what you plan to do, so I'm excited to follow along and see how everything goes! I would recommend one of the aluminum water pumps as well but thats just my personal opinion. I replaced my stock pump with an aluminum one and I felt like it just added some extra peace of mind for me with my car
 

clgodwin79

Go Kart Champion
That alone is a really good reason for this project. I did a full engine rebuild with my Dad last year on my GTI and it was an absolute blast so it makes me happy to see others doing the same thing.

As for this project it seems like you have a really good grasp on what youre doing / what you plan to do, so I'm excited to follow along and see how everything goes! I would recommend one of the aluminum water pumps as well but thats just my personal opinion. I replaced my stock pump with an aluminum one and I felt like it just added some extra peace of mind for me with my car
Thanks man, we’re actually already doing a father/son truck restoration project for him that the engine’s about to go to the machine shop for. We’re more into American 4x4 trucks, but respect all different types and classes of cars. So I figure this will take less than a week start to finish assuming that I don’t get derailed or run into any other major issues.

And I did order an aluminum water pump as well that’s also on the way. I just got a better and nicer one than what they offered at Shopdap.

I’m picking up the car this weekend and I’ll post some pics if that. Then again once I get the new parts and start the tear down and fixing process.
 

clgodwin79

Go Kart Champion
What about the cam bridge? If my screen is still in place do I just keep it and send it? Are there any upgrades or changes to that? I’m just wondering if I’m going to do all of this work only to find out in a few short miles that the screen comes out and causes more headaches and problems. Maybe I could throw some JB weld around it to keep it in place!! 😂
 

Thumper

Autocross Champion
What about the cam bridge? If my screen is still in place do I just keep it and send it? Are there any upgrades or changes to that? I’m just wondering if I’m going to do all of this work only to find out in a few short miles that the screen comes out and causes more headaches and problems. Maybe I could throw some JB weld around it to keep it in place!! 😂

Oh god don't do that! :ROFLMAO:

From what I've seen from extensive research into an A4 Avant I was thinking about which uses the same engine I believe although in longitudinal form many people just remove the screen. It's supposed to stop debris, but it often just becomes it's own debris or gets clogged. So it's a choose your poison situation.

How long has it been sitting? Hopefully not too long. I just took my 944 that has been sitting for about 4 years in for a timing service so I could start driving it again, $1500 (main ECU sensors rotted and fuel pump rusted solid) of work later before even doing the timing service I'm waiting to hear if they found any other issues. lol I know the brakes are rusted out too but I'll handle that myself. Cars should never be left sitting for sure.
 

Joe_Mama

Autocross Champion
What about the cam bridge? If my screen is still in place do I just keep it and send it?
Tough call. I think they fixed this in later cam bridge revision but it isn't worth it to get a whole new cam bridge just for that little improved screen.

If it is there, that is great. If it isn't you need to find where it is downstream because you don't want it clogging shit up.

But yeah if it's there I would probably remove it just to be safe. I guess you run more risk of smaller debris passing into your oil channels this way but I'd rather rely on myself keeping the oil fresh and clean with good filters and blackstone analysis, than just the plain luck of whether or not the screen blows out.
 

clgodwin79

Go Kart Champion
Oh god don't do that! :ROFLMAO:

From what I've seen from extensive research into an A4 Avant I was thinking about which uses the same engine I believe although in longitudinal form many people just remove the screen. It's supposed to stop debris, but it often just becomes it's own debris or gets clogged. So it's a choose your poison situation.

How long has it been sitting? Hopefully not too long. I just took my 944 that has been sitting for about 4 years in for a timing service so I could start driving it again, $1500 (main ECU sensors rotted and fuel pump rusted solid) of work later before even doing the timing service I'm waiting to hear if they found any other issues. lol I know the brakes are rusted out too but I'll handle that myself. Cars should never be left sitting for sure.
Ok, so I’ll research a little more, but probably remove the screen honestly and just keep up with oil and filter changes.

It has only been sitting a few months at most, maybe only 2, but nothing more than 3 months for sure.
 

clgodwin79

Go Kart Champion
Tough call. I think they fixed this in later cam bridge revision but it isn't worth it to get a whole new cam bridge just for that little improved screen.

If it is there, that is great. If it isn't you need to find where it is downstream because you don't want it clogging shit up.

But yeah if it's there I would probably remove it just to be safe. I guess you run more risk of smaller debris passing into your oil channels this way but I'd rather rely on myself keeping the oil fresh and clean with good filters and blackstone analysis, than just the plain luck of whether or not the screen blows out.
Agreed completely. The Humble Mechanic (Shopdap) videos always talk about it and tell you to check for it, but they never really seem to address it unless the screen is out. Then, like you said, they find it and make sure that the rear cam bearings are still in good shape. But like even on that Jalopnik Tiguan video that you sent me, they specifically say to look for it and make sure it’s in place, but if it is, just put it all back together the way it is and call it a day.

In my opinion I’d rather remove it and keep up with fresh oil changes than risk destroying another head. I haven’t seen or heard of anyone removing it and loosing an engine due to clogged oil ports. Besides, years ago my dad taught me that you only have to change an oil filter every other oil change. But my OCD has NEVER let me do that. Oil filters are cheap, and part of a kit usually at every local auto parts store. So I’ve never gone much over my oil change timelines and definitely never not changed my filter with my oil.
 

Thumper

Autocross Champion
So I’ve never gone much over my oil change timelines and definitely never not changed my filter with my oil.

Eh, running clean oil through a dirty filter never seemed like a good idea or have any point to me. It's $10, change the oil - change the filter, job done as far as I'm concerned. (y)
 

clgodwin79

Go Kart Champion
So I found another post on this forum where a dude named Tony48 took pictures of and posted about how he did his timing chains at 106k miles and the screen was still there. So he just put it back together that way.

Then, 1 year and 26k miles later he updated his post saying that the screen had blown out and that he recommends just removing it and running it without the screen altogether. No one else posted after that at all. So I’m thinking I’ll remove it even if it’s still in place.

What he didn’t say, but I’m curious about, is how the hell did he know that it blew out at all, much less after how much time or amount of miles.

Either way, I don’t want to find out the hard or the easy way, so I’m 100% hoping that it’s still there or at least that I find it easily when I’m doing the job. Other than that I don’t care since I’m putting a reman head in. So even if the screen came out and oil starved the rear cam journals, that’s the problem of whoever is going to be rebuilding my core head for the next guy.
 

Thumper

Autocross Champion
What he didn’t say, but I’m curious about, is how the hell did he know that it blew out at all, much less after how much time or amount of miles.

Probably when a chunk of it fell out of the drain plug during an oil change, if he was lucky. LOL But yeah, odd he didn't say but again, that's what I saw nearly everyone with the Audi's doing and suggesting, just take it out.
 
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