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RandomUserName's 2009 MKV GTI build thread...

freshpots

r'zub n t'zug
Location
Canada
Car(s)
'22 GTI, '19 GT350R
Switching software may be the only way to go. THIS IS BULLSHIT. No other way to put it.

APR, I WANT THE BETA FILE NOW!

Either that, or maybe they should pick up the tab for all the shipping and towing costs, at the very least.

That's what EXCEPTIONAL companies do.

APR might not hear you, Arin got banned for being a twat.

Edit: Arin got banned because he is a twat
 

shockwaver

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
United States
Car(s)
VW GIT
Sound like you have been having it rough i hope that you can get it back up and running! Are you running apr's K04. if so will they give you your money back LOL just saying i may be better to go somewhere else it seems a lot of people are having issue with there k04. Also when they flash it to stock meaning apr does the car run fine with no codes? Or are they still benchflashing it at it stuck screws up on the stock file?
 

RandomUserName

Ready to race!
Location
Canada
Sound like you have been having it rough i hope that you can get it back up and running! Are you running apr's K04. if so will they give you your money back LOL just saying i may be better to go somewhere else it seems a lot of people are having issue with there k04. Also when they flash it to stock meaning apr does the car run fine with no codes? Or are they still benchflashing it at it stuck screws up on the stock file?

I should hope that they would be willing to refund the money on the tune alone. Yes, it is an APR kit. I am seriously debating it right now, if I can't get a file to run on the car.

I'm not sure what would happen if they bench flashed it back to stock. The last time was through the port, so I am not sure.

I did manage to find my logs from the day that it happened, and 2 days before, to show that they p1388 and p1579 were cleared, and that I was able to drive the car at least 210 km. The log directly after the flash shows a number of troubling things. I'll post them up later.
 

shockwaver

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
United States
Car(s)
VW GIT
I should hope that they would be willing to refund the money on the tune alone. Yes, it is an APR kit. I am seriously debating it right now, if I can't get a file to run on the car.

I'm not sure what would happen if they bench flashed it back to stock. The last time was through the port, so I am not sure.

I did manage to find my logs from the day that it happened, and 2 days before, to show that they p1388 and p1579 were cleared, and that I was able to drive the car at least 210 km. The log directly after the flash shows a number of troubling things. I'll post them up later.

Thought about something else that might be strange were they giving you only one program or multiple. If they gave you multiple did the stock one work. But we know that the stock one still works no matter what right as you were able to drive it and all. if so i would say tell apr to go up in flames. a lot of people have been doing good with DM with more power may be worth a shot.
 

RandomUserName

Ready to race!
Location
Canada
Thought about something else that might be strange were they giving you only one program or multiple. If they gave you multiple did the stock one work. But we know that the stock one still works no matter what right as you were able to drive it and all. if so i would say tell apr to go up in flames. a lot of people have been doing good with DM with more power may be worth a shot.

The first flash was a STG 2 with a fullly loaded ecu. Stock, 91, 93, and 100 Octane options. So the k04 should be the same. I have tried to clear the fault codes in all programs, not no luck.

But, there might be a solution coming forth, besides the beta file. I don't want to get into it, but the wizard of INA is working on it right now. Just waiting for some confirmation from APR on the fix. I hope this will fix it.

I found some of the scans I had, 1 done the day before the tow / flash at euroline, and 1 after. It shows that I was able to drive 210 km on the stock software, verified by the odometer readings on the scan.

So this shows that the car was able to run without touching any sort of hardware. No install error, no TB issues. Nothing. The car worked flawlessly.

Also, if there is any Canadians on here having similar issues with their flash, get ahold of Issam. He might have a solution for it.
 

RandomUserName

Ready to race!
Location
Canada
So I sent my ecu back to INA to be flashed. Should arrive back on Monday. Hopefully the issues will all be solved.

I did find some interesting info. Apparently, another tuning company has seen the same issues with fault codes P1388 on a TSI. It has something to do with the calibration of the software.

This will be my last attempt at getting APR software loaded onto my ecu. Shipping costs on sending the ecu around has already topped the cost of a new tune.

I'll post some info on Monday... Fingers crossed.
 

freshpots

r'zub n t'zug
Location
Canada
Car(s)
'22 GTI, '19 GT350R
So I sent my ecu back to INA to be flashed. Should arrive back on Monday. Hopefully the issues will all be solved.

I did find some interesting info. Apparently, another tuning company has seen the same issues with fault codes P1388 on a TSI. It has something to do with the calibration of the software.

This will be my last attempt at getting APR software loaded onto my ecu. Shipping costs on sending the ecu around has already topped the cost of a new tune.

I'll post some info on Monday... Fingers crossed.

Best of luck to you man, keep us posted.. Are you posting on the mk6 forums too?


Tapatalkin
 

RandomUserName

Ready to race!
Location
Canada
Best of luck to you man, keep us posted.. Are you posting on the mk6 forums too?

I have posted some stuff over there.... But not nearly as much as here. My post count is low, so I got the smallest wee wee in the room.

No one seems to know what is happening......

HOWEVER...

I was told by a birdie that this was not the first time a tuner has seen these issues. I was told of 2 different cases, by 2 different companies. 1 was a reseller, that told me that a Canadian car came down for an install, and had a lot of problems. Very similar to my issues.

The other was someone who I have worked with in the past. I was told that for some reason, the EEPROM is being corrupted. I am not sure why, and he didn't elaborate, but this makes total sense to me. Why did the car run before the flash both times, and then after the flash, P1388 + P1579? I was told that APR needs to flash it stock, do a code extraction, and apply their changes and add them to the file. This would seem to make sense.

A third vendor has made me aware that he has seen some sort of difference between Canadian cars vs US. I know when we need to get bench flashed here, we need to go through another company in Calgary to get promo codes in we bought our products in the US.

Something is going on with the flash when it is being bench flashed.

3 times it has been port flashed all without issues. Another vendor told me that the difference is the way that the flash is installed. Port flashing is very "plug and play" per se, where as bench flashing is a little more involved. I see it like when you use your VCDS and do an Autoscan. It determines what modules you have installed, whereas bench flashing can't read the outputs real time.

Listen, I've worked with some of the best companies in my area on this problem. And some well beyond.

And NONE of them can explain what is happening. NONE. My options are being limited daily because I'm using all my favour points on something that is not supposed to be this difficult. I've already lost 2 APR dealers in my area. They will not deal with me, because this issue is retarded, and they don't want to get dragged through the mud. I don't blame them one bit.

I just got the ECU back today. Its sitting in my kitchen right now. I'm charing the battery on the car now. Later on I'm going to install it in the car. Clear the codes. And try to do a TBA.

I fear what I'll do if the codes remain.
 

RandomUserName

Ready to race!
Location
Canada
Update - Nov 11, 2013

Needless to say, the flash was not a success. Still have the same codes. Not able to clear them.

However........

I've been in some pretty serious talks with APR today. I said I would give them the chance to make it right, and they are heading in the right direction.

The ecu will be making the trip back to AL this week. I will include autoscan information, emails, everything I can to show that it's been fine before the flash. I've been in contact with Arin as well, and he's been really great. I know they are trying to fix the issue, but I think this shows a deeper issue at APR.

It's not Tech Support. Its the people working in Engineering. They can't fathom an issue with their calibration files. We've all seen the misfire threads.

Victor, and Bronson before, have both been great to deal with. My frustrations in the past with Tech Support I believe were wrongly conveyed. They just relay what they are told. They have both told me the exact same things to check. TB, Pedal inputs, etc, etc, etc. They both assured me on several occasions that it was not the software.

I really want to get this resolved. I'm hoping that we are on the right path, but with all the money, time, and energy that I've used on this project, there really isn't much of me left to give.

So since I have a couple days to kill, I figured I would work on the dv relocate and the synapse valve. I bought a 2.5" tee pipe with a 1" inlet. I have a few more things I have to buy, but the plan is to remove the tiguan pipe, replace it with a old pipe with noise pipe outlet, use a 1.5" silicone 45, and a 1.5" - 1" reducer to mount the valve. Then snake it around the engine compartment, using the stock noise pipe as a guide, and reattach it back to the intake port on the turbo.

Easy right?
 

RandomUserName

Ready to race!
Location
Canada
I just looked back, and forgot that I hadn't shared more pics of the progress.. Here's a little slideshow for you amusement...

Engine still on stand, getting prepped for the injectors and manifold.



Engine off the stand. Flywheel has been installed, and torqued.







Pilot bearing, oh how I hate you.... Trying to get this little bitch out cost me many hours.



Finally got it the pilot bearing out, clutch and pressure plate fitted.



The closest the trans and engine had been together in months.... Just needed a hand with the lift.



Bolted together



That was easy!







Figuring out how to make my own DV Relocate with my new Synapse Valve... Hmmm....???



Turbo intake silicone adapter.. With a 1" Tee..





Keep in mind, I did this entire thing by myself. I had help for 2 things. Removing the trans. And installing the trans. My schedule is insane, so time is precious. But I managed to get it all done by Oct 14th I believe.

There are many more items I am going to fit to her, but I need to do some road testing, so I am waiting for the ecu back from APR.

I really want to finish breaking in the clutch before the snow flies.
 

RandomUserName

Ready to race!
Location
Canada
As luck would have it, APR came through and worked towards making this right with me. They received the ECU back on Thursday, flashed it, and it arrived Friday evening.

Arin asked that I contacted him directly before doing anything. It seemed like hours that I starred at that APR box, but within a few mins, Arin emailed back and told me what he would like.

I went out to the garage, I reconnected the leads on the ecu, made sure everything was connected and cleaned up, and reconnected the battery....

Turned the key over...

Autoscan.....

CODES CLEARED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


WOOOOOOOOHHOOOOOOOOO!!!!

Sorry, you really have no idea how excited I was. I was cheering in the garage like it was the world cup.

Soccer, btw....

Anyways, I fired the car and she roared to life. No more machine guns at idle. Just purred..

So I shut it down, patched up the few items that I needed to, and took her for a run. I'm still breaking in the clutch, so I couldn't really beat it, but she begged for it. I gave her a little, and wow. She is fast.

I have to do some logging for Arin in the next few days, so that everything is verified to be okay. I am not sure what they did, but they made the flash work, so now I can drive my car.

The biggest hurdle that I found was trying to convey to them that you are not totally incompetent. It felt like I was talking to my cable company about a network problem or something. The questions that they ask you, after sending copious amounts of information to them made me laugh. A few times I felt like they were fucking with me. Punked style. Just to see what I would do or something.

I'm happy with the tune right now. Mind you, I am running LT 3, LT 2, LT 1, and Prod 91. On Prod 91, of course. I still have to go get it flashed back to my fully loaded ecu, but that will be after I've done the rest of my testing and logging.

Issam and INA, what can I say. He's gone out of his way to help me. Through retarded delivery companies, more retarded flashing policies, and several bum flashes, he's been helping through thick and thin. Answered emails any time of day, and was always ready to help with whatever he could. Now that the car is running, maybe a road trip to Ottawa may be in order?

And John @ Roc-Euro. Awesome guy, awesome service. He helped me out a bunch over the months, and he was always there for me whenever I needed him. Whenever I called him, he made time to talk with me. Even offered to come north of the border to re-flash my car!!

The battle is still not over yet though.

Not even close.
 

flat tire

Go Kart Champion
Location
USA
Car(s)
Electric + 135i
Damn. I don't even know what to say after reading all that. Glad it's finally working for you.
 

RandomUserName

Ready to race!
Location
Canada
So I sent 2 rounds of logging last evening to Arin. He sent them off to engineering, and I have a new file waiting for me. I am going to get flashed back to my fully loaded ecu on Saturday. Hopefully no issues will arise, but since it is a port flash, I am pretty confident.

I'm really impressed with APR's actions on this. I know I've been hard on them in the past, but they really pulled it together and got it done. I must say that I really appreciate the effort....

I only hope that my episode shines a light on the whole software sometimes IS the issue thing. It's not often, but it can happen.

I have to give credit where credit is due also. Bronson, in both capacities, has been stellar to deal with. A few weeks ago, I was on the brink of switching to DM, as soon as the file was out of course. I emailed to ask a general time frame question, and within minutes I had a reply. Bronson, remembering me and my issue with the flash, emailed me back, telling me exactly what APR had to do to right the calibrations. After a couple of emails with APR, it seems that someone agreed with the advice.

Guess it helps to have an unusual fault. Your story stands out.... People remember you by name.

I've put about 600km on the car since I got the ecu back. Add to that the 400km I put on it before getting reflashed, and the clutch is ready to play. It pulls hard. Very hard. Should have installed an LSD when I had the chance. Also, I don't have my snow tires on yet, so the traction is suffering that was as well. Tonight I am going to swap tires, and clean it up a little.
 

kern417

Go Kart Champion
Location
Louisville, KY
hey man, same user from golfmk6 just catching up on your build. Isaam is a great guy, he helped me source some parts for my build too. It sucks that they don't get more credit or most people haven't heard of INA.

So like I said, I'm planning on diving into the rod install in about 2 weeks. Do you think it's more difficult to do with the motor in the car? I basically have the rods/bearings that are going in, everything else is remaining OEM less the head stud kit i'll be replacing the head bolts with. I've seen a lot of builds where they replace just about everything it seems like and I'm not sure if that's necessary. APR's kit even replaces the entire Oil Pan.

Care to shed some of your knowledge? Especially stuff that isn't in the Bentley if you found anything particularly tricky.
 

RandomUserName

Ready to race!
Location
Canada
hey man, same user from golfmk6 just catching up on your build. Isaam is a great guy, he helped me source some parts for my build too. It sucks that they don't get more credit or most people haven't heard of INA.

So like I said, I'm planning on diving into the rod install in about 2 weeks. Do you think it's more difficult to do with the motor in the car? I basically have the rods/bearings that are going in, everything else is remaining OEM less the head stud kit i'll be replacing the head bolts with. I've seen a lot of builds where they replace just about everything it seems like and I'm not sure if that's necessary. APR's kit even replaces the entire Oil Pan.

Care to shed some of your knowledge? Especially stuff that isn't in the Bentley if you found anything particularly tricky.

Issam and INA, I couldn't say enough about the things he did to make it right for me. Anytime I needed him, he was always there. With that level of service, INA should be well known to anyone interested in serious mods. He knows his stuff, and can get you anything.

It's way more difficult to do the rods with the engine in the car. Even changing the tensioner was difficult with the engine in the car. You would have to remove the head (likely), remove the chains, oil pan, baffle, and upper oil pan. Remove the crank, then draw the pistons downward. Not to mention if you are replacing the rings (likely) doing bore measurements and checking ring gap would be a challange. I'm not saying impossible, but it would be a challange. It's not that much extra to remove the engine, just take off the front clip and remove axle bolts, motor mounts, and various other goodies.

Most of the info that I have read says to save your money on the head studs. I know, I know, studs are way better, but from what I have gathered the OEM headbolts are fine. Make sure to grab the polydrive socket that I show above. The head bolts are polydrive. You can use an Allen key, but the one called for in the design drawing didn't fit real nice, and I wasn't about to strip the head of a headbolt.

The oil pan baffle needs to be replaced any time it is removed. It deforms when you tighten it, so it needs to be replaced. The upper oil pan is actually attached to the block, more like a girdle I would suggest.


I think I have most of the specs lying around here somewhere. PM me and I can help you with what I can.
 
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