Doh! Just edited link to what I thought I copied for the style/type I borrowed and used...:thumbsup:
V
installing exhaust manifold studs
- Thread starter nashbar
- Start date
Doh! Just edited link to what I thought I copied for the style/type I borrowed and used...:thumbsup:
clockwise33
New York Giants Fanatic
- Location
- NJ
donjuan1jr
whats a turbo?
- Location
- East of queens west of hamptons
That's for the nuts not studs.
clockwise33
New York Giants Fanatic
- Location
- NJ
Most, if not all, hardware threaded into the head are given 10nm. I'm going to go with 10nm. No reason to think they would ever come loose at that torque.
I think 25nm for the studs and 20nm for the nuts is correct.
Check for yourself in this A3 2.0t BPY document...where I look. Exhaust mani nuts to cylinder head is 20nm listed on page 43 of the pdf and page 33 of the document: https://blogvager.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/10-audi_a3_qsb_web.pdf
Spark plug torque is 22 lb*ft...so safe to assume 18 lb*ft for the 8mm studs is safe considering they don't torque until flush.
Check for yourself in this A3 2.0t BPY document...where I look. Exhaust mani nuts to cylinder head is 20nm listed on page 43 of the pdf and page 33 of the document: https://blogvager.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/10-audi_a3_qsb_web.pdf
Spark plug torque is 22 lb*ft...so safe to assume 18 lb*ft for the 8mm studs is safe considering they don't torque until flush.
donjuan1jr
whats a turbo?
- Location
- East of queens west of hamptons
Good luck getting 25nm on a stud without fucking those threads up...
It's not a big deal.
It's not a big deal.
Well, first of all - the biggest problem people have with exhaust studs is not trying to figure out how to install them, but rather figuring out what to do after twisting a couple of them off during removal. So whether the nut comes off the stud, or the stud comes out of the head - your life is perfect. Be happy!
Use new copper nuts each time you replace the manifold. If the stud comes out, I usually replace that, too. But just screw the stud in by hand till it bottoms - most have a ridge and will only go in so far. They get snugged up a bit as the copper nut goes on.
The tools (stud extractors) shown in donjuan1jr's pics are for removing stuck studs, not installing them. When working perfectly, they cam themselves onto the threads (maybe even without buggering them up if you're lucky) and allow you to remove the stud without double nutting it. Handy if you want to remove expensive reusable head studs (like ARP). The ones I have only grab in one direction - CCW for lefty loosey.
Use new copper nuts each time you replace the manifold. If the stud comes out, I usually replace that, too. But just screw the stud in by hand till it bottoms - most have a ridge and will only go in so far. They get snugged up a bit as the copper nut goes on.
The tools (stud extractors) shown in donjuan1jr's pics are for removing stuck studs, not installing them. When working perfectly, they cam themselves onto the threads (maybe even without buggering them up if you're lucky) and allow you to remove the stud without double nutting it. Handy if you want to remove expensive reusable head studs (like ARP). The ones I have only grab in one direction - CCW for lefty loosey.