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Drivetrain loss Gti needed for Dynolicious?

Timvgti

Ready to race!
Location
Netherlands
Hi guys,

I want to use dynolicious (iPhone app) to measure how many hp's I have.
I know it's accurate because I tested my VW transporter with 130hp and it said 135hp after multiple tests and my Audi TT with a 215hp remap said around 211hp with dynolicious.

But what's the drivetrain loss for the gti? (in %)
and how many 'extra kilo's' with a full fuel tank, stock weight (1355kg), 17" oem rims and myself(75kg) in it?
 

dustinwark

Miesian
Location
Portland
Car(s)
'07 VW GTI
14.32%
 

PRND[S]

The Lame & The Ludicrous
Location
Southern California
Car(s)
'15 LSG Golf R
wrong, no drive train loss you will get BHP, WHP is AFTER drive train loss
I understand the difference between BHP and WHP, but if you enter 0% drivetrain loss, nothing is added or subtracted to/from the power Dynolicious measured during the run -- that should be WHP, not BHP.

As a matter of fact, the following appears in Bosch Light 'em Up Dyno, which is a free, private-branded version of Dynolicious:
 

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dustinwark

Miesian
Location
Portland
Car(s)
'07 VW GTI
I understand the difference between BHP and WHP, but if you enter 0% drivetrain loss, nothing is added or subtracted to/from the power Dynolicious measured during the run -- that should be WHP, not BHP.

As a matter of fact, the following appears in Bosch Light 'em Up Dyno, which is a free, private-branded version of Dynolicious:

you have it backwards man, I am telling you. WHP or WHEEL horsepower is how much HP is transferred to the wheels, which means after some power is lost in the drive train. WHP is lower than BHP.
 

PRND[S]

The Lame & The Ludicrous
Location
Southern California
Car(s)
'15 LSG Golf R
Right. Dynolicious measures the acceleration of the vehicle and gives you a HP rating that's needed to achieve that acceleration. If the drivetrain loss is entered as 0%, it doesn't add or subtract anything from that number, meaning you have to have that much power going to the wheels to achieve the acceleration that was measured.

For example, I have one run where Bosch Light 'em Up Dyno calculated 351HP with a DTL of 0%. If I change the vehicle setup and specify a DTL of 10% and then look at the results from the same run, it now shows 390HP. This corroborates the statement in the configuration screen.

Anyone with Dynolicious or Bosch Light 'em Up Dyno (a free download) can verify that.
 

marknouj

The Engineer
Location
CT
Car(s)
2008 VW Rabbit
Right. Dynolicious measures the acceleration of the vehicle and gives you a HP rating that's needed to achieve that acceleration. If the drivetrain loss is entered as 0%, it doesn't add or subtract anything from that number, meaning you have to have that much power going to the wheels to achieve the acceleration that was measured.

For example, I have one run where Bosch Light 'em Up Dyno calculated 351HP with a DTL of 0%. If I change the vehicle setup and specify a DTL of 10% and then look at the results from the same run, it now shows 390HP. This corroborates the statement in the configuration screen.

Anyone with Dynolicious or Bosch Light 'em Up Dyno (a free download) can verify that.

I agree.

F=ma

a is measured using the iPhone's accelerometer
m is typed in for the mass of the car + mass of the driver.
F is converted from Newtons to HP

thus giving an accurate representation of WHP.
 

Timvgti

Ready to race!
Location
Netherlands
Thanks guys!
I prefer bhp, not whp to compare and to know if my ABT remap is 240bhp
So is 14,32% loss accurate, like 'dustinwarp' says?
I have dsg...
 

DarkX

Your Boss :P
Location
In a room with the door locked :P
Car(s)
GTI ED30 DSG
14.32% sounds about right for drivetrain loss for the GTI. 15% was my approximate assumption.

how many 'extra kilo's' with a full fuel tank, stock weight (1355kg), 17" oem rims and myself(75kg) in it?
To calculate a full tank's weight is very difficult because there are many factors that affect the result. There are differences between one substance to another i.e. mercury weighs more than water, also the substance's temperature influences its weight. But to get a very approximate value, multiply liter by 0.8 and you'll have it. A full tank then is 55 liters, so around 44 kilograms. But like I said that's by no means an accurate result.

If rims are stock, they are included in the vehicle's weight as issued by manufacturer. But the same goes for fuel tank. Actually, there are some differences in the way different countries or regions in the world measure a car's weight. European regulations specify a full tank of fuel with the spare wheel (where available) with no passengers in the car and no extra equipment, only equipment that comes standard. If GPS doesn't come as standard and you've ordered it with one, then you have some extra weight. If you've ordered it with 18 inch huffs or detroits you've got some extra weight.

If at any time you find dynolicious being insufficient, take a look at Dashhawk. It's a very small device that connects to OBDII port and gives you a shitload of values to perform your diagnostics like all possible temperatures, pressures etc., apart from 0-60mph times, 1/4 mile times etc. :thumbsup:
 

hobbes

Ready to race!
Location
San Ramon, CA
wait so the best thing to do is use 0% for drive train loss huh?

It's not good or bad. Putting 0% gives you WHP while putting ~15% will give you crank HP. Just depends which number you want to see in the app.
 

BoardSnow6

Banned
Location
WPA
Car(s)
Capita Scaremaster
Bumpin this thread because i found an android app for a dyno as well that is more in depth for an accurate reading. The name of it is aDyno.
 
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