GTIxpinay
dirty pirate hooker
- Location
- Jersey, exit 138
V
DIY - NewSouth Performance Boost Gauge w/Indigo Gauge
- Thread starter Deezz_Nuttz
- Start date
S4NoMore
Newbie
- Location
- Malvern PA
- Car(s)
- 2008 GTI 2-door 6MT
not true. part-throttle will still read negative. it's possible to drive around and never get into boost (although you'll be driving like a grandma).
in the works for me is a boost gauge (autometer cobalt with bsh/forge boost tap and new south column pod). i think i got the gist of it until it gets into the electrical aspect, so 2 questions:
by splicing into the headlights, will the gauge dim with the lights or does that need to be spliced in too? i guess this is more for people with the cobalt gauge.
what gauge is the wire on the headlights?
by splicing into the headlights, will the gauge dim with the lights or does that need to be spliced in too? i guess this is more for people with the cobalt gauge.
what gauge is the wire on the headlights?
plac
GTI Master
- Location
- SF Bay Area, CA
yes the gauge will dim when splicing into those 2 headlight switch wires. i tested it last night.
the headlight gauge size is tiny. if you get the scotchbrite connectors get reds. you can buy them anywhere.
i actually had a problem with my wire tapping yesterday. so tip: double up your gauges wires when you put it into the connectors. loop it. then it has two chances to get a good connection and is more reliable.
Last edited:
1canuck2
Ready to race!
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
I just finished the install of my NS boost gauge and column pod.
I have a Canadian GTI, which apparently comes with the drivers side cubby standard, so the install was a little different from the interior perspective. Here's the diffs:
You have to remove the cubby. Open it and then squeeze the sides to release the cubby. It should hang all the way down. Pull perpendicular to the hinge and they will release (they have a U shaped piece that clicks over the hinge but.
Two screws are behind where the hinge was (as opposed to three in OP's photos).
There is one screw at the top of the cubby opening (facing the floor) that also needs to be removed, plus a screw behind the headlight switch you remove and the screw up by the gauge cluster. To remove the trim piece you need to bend the side by the fuse panel a little so it releases. The rest of the isntructions are the same.
I did the poke a hole in the pleather piece technique, I tapped the 12V from the dimmer, and I grounded it on the screw that holds the fuse panel in place.
Worked a treat first time.
When I first turned on the car after getting it all back together a sterring wheel light came on (airbag?). After a few mins of driving it cleared, I guess this is because the battery was unhooked.
Some numbers (I am APR Stage 1):
If I drive the way I normally do and get on the gas in second or third, the car spikes at 16 psi, holds there a bit then fades to 11. If I am cruising in fourth/fifth and get on it, I can spike and hold 20 psi for a bit then it drops off. The car feels like at has more oomph when its spiking at 16 in 2nd/3rd than it does when spiking 20 in 4th/5th, but this is prolly more of a gear ration thing since I am already booking it when in 5th
Its interesting to see what it does based on getting on the gas in various gears at various speeds, cos before I never really thought about it/knew what was happening boost-wise. Not sure I get all of the significance, (like could watching it teach me to be a better "performance" driver - or just teach me how to hit a pole...)
Some of the noises my car makes I assumed were turbo spooling related but they occur when there is no boost building (like the infamous rake on concrete sound my eVoms makes).
If I take my foot off the pedal and coast it sits at -20, which is normal. If I am lightly on the gas holding speed around town, it sits around -10.
The lighting is a perfect match to stock dials and the pod sits in the right spot for me where it does not obstruct anything but the highest red part of the rev counter, and if my revs is buried in there, it means something went wrong...
I have a Canadian GTI, which apparently comes with the drivers side cubby standard, so the install was a little different from the interior perspective. Here's the diffs:
You have to remove the cubby. Open it and then squeeze the sides to release the cubby. It should hang all the way down. Pull perpendicular to the hinge and they will release (they have a U shaped piece that clicks over the hinge but.
Two screws are behind where the hinge was (as opposed to three in OP's photos).
There is one screw at the top of the cubby opening (facing the floor) that also needs to be removed, plus a screw behind the headlight switch you remove and the screw up by the gauge cluster. To remove the trim piece you need to bend the side by the fuse panel a little so it releases. The rest of the isntructions are the same.
I did the poke a hole in the pleather piece technique, I tapped the 12V from the dimmer, and I grounded it on the screw that holds the fuse panel in place.
Worked a treat first time.
When I first turned on the car after getting it all back together a sterring wheel light came on (airbag?). After a few mins of driving it cleared, I guess this is because the battery was unhooked.
Some numbers (I am APR Stage 1):
If I drive the way I normally do and get on the gas in second or third, the car spikes at 16 psi, holds there a bit then fades to 11. If I am cruising in fourth/fifth and get on it, I can spike and hold 20 psi for a bit then it drops off. The car feels like at has more oomph when its spiking at 16 in 2nd/3rd than it does when spiking 20 in 4th/5th, but this is prolly more of a gear ration thing since I am already booking it when in 5th
Its interesting to see what it does based on getting on the gas in various gears at various speeds, cos before I never really thought about it/knew what was happening boost-wise. Not sure I get all of the significance, (like could watching it teach me to be a better "performance" driver - or just teach me how to hit a pole...)
Some of the noises my car makes I assumed were turbo spooling related but they occur when there is no boost building (like the infamous rake on concrete sound my eVoms makes).
If I take my foot off the pedal and coast it sits at -20, which is normal. If I am lightly on the gas holding speed around town, it sits around -10.
The lighting is a perfect match to stock dials and the pod sits in the right spot for me where it does not obstruct anything but the highest red part of the rev counter, and if my revs is buried in there, it means something went wrong...
njfast07
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Central Jersey
sorry if I'm too late, but thats how I did mine. didn't poke a hole in the leather, just ran it through the side where the leather ends. the red wire was showing a bit, so I wrapped the exposed area in black electrical tape, and it's now invisible.
this write-up helped me install my newsouth as well, it was the best help I couldve ever asked for.
rabid_rabbit
Just a GTI lover...
- Location
- Brunei Darussalam
- Car(s)
- MkV GTI DSG
Based on my experience with the NewSouth boost gauge...
Before you actually place the pod on the steering column, i strongly advise to sand down the flat side closest to you cos after awhile it starts to rub at extreme left and right.
This squeak is ok at first but then it gets really irritating.
Just my 2 cents.
Before you actually place the pod on the steering column, i strongly advise to sand down the flat side closest to you cos after awhile it starts to rub at extreme left and right.
This squeak is ok at first but then it gets really irritating.
Just my 2 cents.
1canuck2
Ready to race!
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
I sanded the hell out the front part of the pod. Its probably half the thickness it was when new...
Just want to thanks for documenting this DIY.
Help out a lot and made the install pretty straight forward.
I only have two things to add.
1. On the rear battery holder/cover, there is a tab on the rear.
So, there is a tab on each side and one on the rear.
2. Note that you should pull the steering wheel out(telescope) as far as possible to
assure the POD fits in easily then adjust the steering wheel as needed/preferred.
If you have the steering wheel telescoped in all the way against the dash, the POD will not fit.
Help out a lot and made the install pretty straight forward.
I only have two things to add.
1. On the rear battery holder/cover, there is a tab on the rear.
So, there is a tab on each side and one on the rear.
2. Note that you should pull the steering wheel out(telescope) as far as possible to
assure the POD fits in easily then adjust the steering wheel as needed/preferred.
If you have the steering wheel telescoped in all the way against the dash, the POD will not fit.
Britishav8tor
Ready to race!
- Location
- Frederick MD.
Has anyone bought the center dash 3 pod from NS?
I bought the 3 pod with a boost, Oil pressure and Volt guages. Lets face it the guages are for the dog and pony show and really tell you nothing you couldn't get from the stock dash or from the feel of the car.
I will agree the pod is cheap looking and feeling and the fit is sloppy and requires that you drill holes in back of the center vent and tap screws. The directions are all but useless. This post has helped alot.
In NS defense, from talking on the phone with the guy when I ordered the stuff it seems like a small ma and pa shop the guy said he designed the thing himself and considering the options for guage pods are really limited its pretty cool that he took the initative to create this.
I will post pics from my install. I'll be installing a PXAMG Ipod controller as well ... and from what Ive read ... its crap but I have it so I ll give it a shot.
I bought the 3 pod with a boost, Oil pressure and Volt guages. Lets face it the guages are for the dog and pony show and really tell you nothing you couldn't get from the stock dash or from the feel of the car.
I will agree the pod is cheap looking and feeling and the fit is sloppy and requires that you drill holes in back of the center vent and tap screws. The directions are all but useless. This post has helped alot.
In NS defense, from talking on the phone with the guy when I ordered the stuff it seems like a small ma and pa shop the guy said he designed the thing himself and considering the options for guage pods are really limited its pretty cool that he took the initative to create this.
I will post pics from my install. I'll be installing a PXAMG Ipod controller as well ... and from what Ive read ... its crap but I have it so I ll give it a shot.
dbduke
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Cambridge, MA
That's not true at all. You're getting a lot of info from your boost gauge that you could never get from your dash - your car doesn't even have any internal mechanism of metering manifold vacuum. A volt gauge is very important if you have modified your electrical system at all (I love watching my volt gauge bounce to the beat of my music when I have my sub turned up). Granted, an oil pressure gauge isn't giving you much info in this car, but many other gauges (oil temp, afr, egt) would give you a lot of important information.
Britishav8tor
Ready to race!
- Location
- Frederick MD.
EGT would only be good if you could get a probe on each cyclinder, for it to give you useable information you need to know which cyclinder is running hotter than another. Oil Temp is reduntent, maybe if the car was air cooled then oil temp would be applicable, but I have had this discussion with other friends and VW have disigned the car in such a way that once the water temp reaches normal op range then the oil has also reached it normal op temp also. We use oil temp and oil pressure on the plane not only becuase its air cooled but its a back up as well ... if pressure drops but temp remains the same then the pressure guage has probably died.
If your volt meter is bouncing with beat it means you're pulling too much power the volt meter should remain steady. How are you powering the sub is it straight from the battery or off the internal bus?
As for the boost guage, I agree, there is no way of telling boost or Vacume - it would be the most useful. I took a bunch of pics of the install, it was a little more labor intensive then the colum mount one but not much. I ll post them later, my camera doesnt want to download them :iono: