rbradleymedmd
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Columbia, SC
All parts can be found at www.MidwestControl.com. I found the MWC website through another car forum where members built their own adjustable endlinks with good success (would post the link, but I haven't been able to find it). Thus, I decided to see how/if a similar endlink design for our cars could be constructed from their parts catalog.
M12 Ball Joint (right hand thread) x 2 --> JSB-M12
M12 Ball Joint (left hand thread) x 2 --> JSB-M12-LH
M12x280mm Threaded Rod (both right/left hand thread) x 2 --> TR12-280
M12 Jam Nut (right hand thread) x 2 --> no part #, just search under "Hardware"
M12 Jam Nut (left hand thread) x 2 --> no part #, just search under "Hardware"
Note: these parts have not been installed and no long term testing has been compiled...this is merely a FYI for others that may want to try this set-up in place of the current market's offerings.
After reading multiple other car forums, it appears that most vehicles post coilover installation require a slightly longer endlink to accommodate the new suspension geometry. According to Meyle's website the OEM endlinks are 335mm length (from center stud to center stud). These DIY endlinks can range in lengths of 327mm to ~367mm (this leaves roughly 10mm of thread in each ball joint...plenty of support).
After looking over the PowerGrid design (among a few other companies from other tuning markets), I decided that their price mark-up was a little steep considering the materials. With that said, I have begun to notice some popping while making full right or left turns...the ball joints on my OEM front sway endlinks seem to be binding/failing. So, after doing a little research on the FK, K-Sport, PowerGrid and OEM endlinks, I decided I would attempt to recreate my own endlink set.
The FK and K-Sport endlinks all utilize a ball joint very similar to the OEM endlink. After having to replace every endlink on my car (each one has been replaced at least once), I decided to try a different ball joint set-up. So, this ruled out OEM replacements, FK and K-Sport. That leaves PowerGrid...which I believe is DanGSR approved from reading some of his previous posts (but I'll let him fully clarify so as to not put words in his mouth).
The PowerGrid design looks very robust and the adjustability offers the capability to remove all preload from the sway bar...no matter what suspension/ride height. Now, I'll be the first to say that I know very, very little about suspensions, so I'll let the experts on here chime in as to why these types of adjustable endlinks are worthwhile. My main objective in purchasing these was to remove all preload/stress on my front strut endlink tabs and still come in at a price cheaper than OEM endlinks from the dealer.
MSRP for the OEM endlinks from the dealer is $60.50 each (with online part stores offering them for ~$45). PowerGrid offers their endlinks at a price ~$150...total cost of these DIY endlinks is ~$70 shipped. I will note that PowerGrid implements THK ball joints into their design which would definitely be one of the main contributors to their price inflation (however, not nearly enough to justify their final cost). After comparing the MWC ball joints (which is listed incorrectly on their website...had to call to verify these figures...1568 axial/3072 shear IIRC) to the THK spec sheet, the THK joints offer slightly more shear and axial strength. However, my objective here is not to compare these DIY endlinks to PowerGrid, as it was apparent that the MWC ball joints weren't equal pricewise/structurally to THK's design.
My goal was to create affordable, yet "tech sheet" strong structural endlinks and test their reliability in the field. I don't track my car, nor will I. All of my testing will be daily driving on the street, with the occasional fun weekend drive. I will update this thread once the endlinks are installed, and hope to provide occasionally updates as to the reliability of the components. Again, these pieces have not been tested on my car...I'm merely posting this information for others that may want to try a different route.
M12 Ball Joint (right hand thread) x 2 --> JSB-M12
M12 Ball Joint (left hand thread) x 2 --> JSB-M12-LH
M12x280mm Threaded Rod (both right/left hand thread) x 2 --> TR12-280
M12 Jam Nut (right hand thread) x 2 --> no part #, just search under "Hardware"
M12 Jam Nut (left hand thread) x 2 --> no part #, just search under "Hardware"
Note: these parts have not been installed and no long term testing has been compiled...this is merely a FYI for others that may want to try this set-up in place of the current market's offerings.
After reading multiple other car forums, it appears that most vehicles post coilover installation require a slightly longer endlink to accommodate the new suspension geometry. According to Meyle's website the OEM endlinks are 335mm length (from center stud to center stud). These DIY endlinks can range in lengths of 327mm to ~367mm (this leaves roughly 10mm of thread in each ball joint...plenty of support).
After looking over the PowerGrid design (among a few other companies from other tuning markets), I decided that their price mark-up was a little steep considering the materials. With that said, I have begun to notice some popping while making full right or left turns...the ball joints on my OEM front sway endlinks seem to be binding/failing. So, after doing a little research on the FK, K-Sport, PowerGrid and OEM endlinks, I decided I would attempt to recreate my own endlink set.
The FK and K-Sport endlinks all utilize a ball joint very similar to the OEM endlink. After having to replace every endlink on my car (each one has been replaced at least once), I decided to try a different ball joint set-up. So, this ruled out OEM replacements, FK and K-Sport. That leaves PowerGrid...which I believe is DanGSR approved from reading some of his previous posts (but I'll let him fully clarify so as to not put words in his mouth).
The PowerGrid design looks very robust and the adjustability offers the capability to remove all preload from the sway bar...no matter what suspension/ride height. Now, I'll be the first to say that I know very, very little about suspensions, so I'll let the experts on here chime in as to why these types of adjustable endlinks are worthwhile. My main objective in purchasing these was to remove all preload/stress on my front strut endlink tabs and still come in at a price cheaper than OEM endlinks from the dealer.
MSRP for the OEM endlinks from the dealer is $60.50 each (with online part stores offering them for ~$45). PowerGrid offers their endlinks at a price ~$150...total cost of these DIY endlinks is ~$70 shipped. I will note that PowerGrid implements THK ball joints into their design which would definitely be one of the main contributors to their price inflation (however, not nearly enough to justify their final cost). After comparing the MWC ball joints (which is listed incorrectly on their website...had to call to verify these figures...1568 axial/3072 shear IIRC) to the THK spec sheet, the THK joints offer slightly more shear and axial strength. However, my objective here is not to compare these DIY endlinks to PowerGrid, as it was apparent that the MWC ball joints weren't equal pricewise/structurally to THK's design.
My goal was to create affordable, yet "tech sheet" strong structural endlinks and test their reliability in the field. I don't track my car, nor will I. All of my testing will be daily driving on the street, with the occasional fun weekend drive. I will update this thread once the endlinks are installed, and hope to provide occasionally updates as to the reliability of the components. Again, these pieces have not been tested on my car...I'm merely posting this information for others that may want to try a different route.
