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Devil's Own Direct Port Water Meth Injection (And some gold)

leviathan18

Ready to race!
sounds pretty feasible in my book.

look at the msi x340 xslim series great for what you want :thumbsup: it has a culv c2d single core cpu which is faster than any atom and pretty cool and very portable with weight under 4lbs and cheap no more than 600$
 

Little_Red_Fast

Back in the saddle!
Location
Grass Lake MI
Car(s)
2011 Jeep JK Rubicon
Thanks for the suggestion Leviathan, I am going to pick up a pretty cheap computer after work today (<$600), finish up some of the wiring (making it all pretty) and modify the lengths of the tubing from the direct port block to the manifold. Then I will get out and log some data.

I threw a code this morning when I did a WOT run in 3rd, but I dont have the ability to check it. Car still ran fine. I will update you guys when I figure that out at lunch time.
 

Tmsracing37

Boosty McFlamin Job
Location
MD
Car(s)
06 GTI
Just playing around with some ideas here:

Since the KO3 spools so quickly & there is very little time between 5psi & 10psi on the ramp-up, surely the controller could be discarded and replaced by one adjustable Devil's Own 'boost sensor' switch set at 5psi. Upon reaching 5psi the normally-open contacts will close and 12V is fed through to drive the pump and turn on the solenoid?

For the longest time I was running a simple Hobb’s pressure switch with the activation point set at 4 psi. I was able to run a 6gph nozzle pre TB without any quenching issues, but now that I added a Pre-Turbo nozzle I have found it is more effective to run a progressive controller to delay full spray around peak pressure. With the "slope" of theLabonate MAP controller in conjunction with my nozzle size and pump pressure setting I am to maintain 2-3% water ingestion of the MAF readings.

With a simple w/m setup I feel a Hobb’s switch or MAP controller will work fine, but with the more involved setups popping up I feel that load/MAF based controllers are the way to go on our engines.
 

Tmsracing37

Boosty McFlamin Job
Location
MD
Car(s)
06 GTI
Thanks for the suggestion Leviathan, I am going to pick up a pretty cheap computer after work today (<$600), finish up some of the wiring (making it all pretty) and modify the lengths of the tubing from the direct port block to the manifold. Then I will get out and log some data.

I threw a code this morning when I did a WOT run in 3rd, but I dont have the ability to check it. Car still ran fine. I will update you guys when I figure that out at lunch time.

Looking good!!!. Just another thing I have to add to the list when ugrading the turbo this winter.... as for code it might be a random misfire and/or if you really loaded u the cylinders with w/m you might get a faulty fuel supply code, sorry I don't remeber the code and definition actual code, but will ome something "fuel supply fault"
 

Little_Red_Fast

Back in the saddle!
Location
Grass Lake MI
Car(s)
2011 Jeep JK Rubicon
Looking good!!!. Just another thing I have to add to the list when ugrading the turbo this winter.... as for code it might be a random misfire and/or if you really loaded u the cylinders with w/m you might get a faulty fuel supply code, sorry I don't remeber the code and definition actual code, but will ome something "fuel supply fault"

Hopefully that is all. It wasn't like getting overboost and the car going into limp mode or anything, it is just as strong now as it was before the code. So most likely something small and irrelevant.

Picking up a Netbook tonight after work (long battery life, and I only will use it for data logging) so logs will come soon after!! oh yeah, and better pics since I have my SLR back now.
 

boki

Ready to race!
Location
Serbia/Bronx, NY
Take a look at Acer Aspire One D150 for around $330.00 (the one with 6 cell battery and 160GB hdd-upgradeable, 1GB RAM upgradeable to 2GB for cheap) - it's 10.1" lcd and it's running for more then 6 hr on a charge, it's running Win XP pretty fast, one of the technicians I work with is swearing by it. For data logging you don't need anything faster than Intel Atom 270 or 280 if you can find it (Core 2 Duo's are fine and all but a bit more power hungry and expensive).
 

Little_Red_Fast

Back in the saddle!
Location
Grass Lake MI
Car(s)
2011 Jeep JK Rubicon
Yeah, I was looking at that one, an Asus, or a Gateway. They are all priced within 10 bucks of one another. Thanks for the suggestion!
 

boki

Ready to race!
Location
Serbia/Bronx, NY
NP. By the way, which DO pump are you using? One that came in their Stage 2 kit for VW (150-250PSI, shipped with 200PSI setting - and what pressure setting are you using) or SHURFlo 220PSI and what's the difference?
 

Little_Red_Fast

Back in the saddle!
Location
Grass Lake MI
Car(s)
2011 Jeep JK Rubicon
NP. By the way, which DO pump are you using? One that came in their Stage 2 kit for VW (150-250PSI, shipped with 200PSI setting - and what pressure setting are you using) or SHURFlo 220PSI and what's the difference?

I dont know the difference, but I am using the 250PSI pump at the preset pressure. I want to get everything going using the preset first and then once everything is working to my liking (its not like it isnt working now, I just want to log and check and log some more), then mess with that and nozzle sizes.
 

boki

Ready to race!
Location
Serbia/Bronx, NY
I have one more question and then I'll stop (and go back to work...yea right). Do you think it would be possible/beneficial to add a IC sprayer to your setup? Could the 250PSI pump be enough for all that (depending on what sprayer set up would you use/nozzle sizes and count)? Would it be dangerous to spray water/meth to the engine internals (if some gets through, and especially if you decide to use 45/55 or 40/60 ratio)?

I'm going on a vacation starting this Friday (driving to Miami and Key West) and after I get back and if I still have some change to spare I'm going to PM you about that intake manifold that you are thinking about selling to use for my w/m set up.
 

Little_Red_Fast

Back in the saddle!
Location
Grass Lake MI
Car(s)
2011 Jeep JK Rubicon
I have one more question and then I'll stop (and go back to work...yea right). Do you think it would be possible/beneficial to add a IC sprayer to your setup? Could the 250PSI pump be enough for all that (depending on what sprayer set up would you use/nozzle sizes and count)? Would it be dangerous to spray water/meth to the engine internals (if some gets through, and especially if you decide to use 45/55 or 40/60 ratio)?

I'm going on a vacation starting this Friday (driving to Miami and Key West) and after I get back and if I still have some change to spare I'm going to PM you about that intake manifold that you are thinking about selling to use for my w/m set up.

You can ask as many as you want, especially to get out of working!

It would be possible I think, but would it help much, I do not know. I know that the Stage 2 (with turbo toys) SRT4 has this and it sprays the windshield washer mix on the intercooler (up to 30% Methanol) and they dont have problems. I won't do it though because I think the current system will have sufficient cooling.

Let me know man, and depending on what you want to spend, I can do the modifying for you, or just clean it up and send it out to you.
 

cruizin01

Go Kart Champion
Location
C-bus Ohio
Car(s)
07 Rabbit
I just bought a refurb 701SD EEE PC from mwave for $120 shipped. Came with Linux but I loaded XP on it. 8GB SSD drive (can be a little laggy/glitchy) Works PERFECT though for logging. The battery last over 3 hours. The small screen is perfect for vag-com and my WOT box software. Hoping to get my Bently manual loaded on it soon. Best money Ive spent lately.
 

Little_Red_Fast

Back in the saddle!
Location
Grass Lake MI
Car(s)
2011 Jeep JK Rubicon
Let me give you boys (and girls) a little tip...if you're gonna fill up on gas on the way to work, make sure you go ahead and tighten that gas cap...the code was for an EVAP leak. I tightened the fuel cap and cleared it.

I thought it might have been because of what I installed over the weekend, but then realized I drove like 300 miles and the code didnt show up, but 10 minutes after I filled up this morning (in the freaking freezing ass cold, 41 degrees here this morning), I didnt tighten the cap until it clicked. Next time I will wear a coat and spend the extra second it takes to click it...

I swapped my setup to only have the post IC nozzle running tonight/tomorrow and I will run some logs on the way to work and post them up when I get there. Then after work I will unhook that and just run the intake manifold. The next morning I will log that. Then I will connect them both and log again. Hopefully this will show what each does and how they work (or dont work) together. I will take multiple logs each day (before work, at lunch, after work) so that we get a good mix of data and ambient conditions. I will also note them here.

Thanks for the patience guys! New laptop works like a charm BTW... :biggrin: Went loggin with my roommate tonight (which didnt work out well because I couldnt use turbo using VCDS version 905...but I read some stuff and figured out how to up my sampling rate...I will try in the morning). I dont have the graphs, but in 93 octane, 4th gear, at 4800 rpms, I was at 10.3BTDC. This was the second run (my roomie turned it off after my first 3rd gear run in the story I have below...). That is roughly 2.5BTDC better then my post IC log, but bear in mind it was at a different time of day and different ambients.

BTW, I will do all these logs in 93 octane first, then in 100 octane if I feel it is safe (it will be, I am just a huge pussy and dont want to ruin my car).
 
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Lou_Y2mK5

Go Kart Champion
Location
APK, FL
I dont know the difference, but I am using the 250PSI pump at the preset pressure. I want to get everything going using the preset first and then once everything is working to my liking (its not like it isnt working now, I just want to log and check and log some more), then mess with that and nozzle sizes.

Difference is the 220psi pump actually flows much more volume/LPH. I belive 50% more.

Don't let the PSI misslead ya. This pump is not needed unless you are in the 1000+whp money pit. You got the right pump.
 
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