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BPY Timing Related Power Issues

asalterio1

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Southern Oregon
Hey guys.
I just joined and this is my first post. Let see how a tough one like this can be fixed with forum support! :smile:

i need to jump in here and hopefully someone can help me. I have a 2006 BPY FSI DSG, bought it as a basket case from the previous owner who was moving. Long story short the PO ran the cam follower into the cam and trashed it. Dealer didnt want to warranty it and he went after VW and they just paid off his loan on it. The dealer purchased some used cams and all associated parts in order to get it running. They guy threw it together and could not get the "timing right." So i redid the timing belt and installed a new water pump. the timing belt was off by 3 teeth... I also found a collapsed roller rocker (was sideways?) I was able to loosen the cam girdle and get it straitened out.

The car ran but was hard to start and had NO POWER off the line. Once it got going it seems to drive ok...deff under-powered. I knew the cam chain tensioner was bad due to the noise. So i removed the cam chain cover and found the damn tensioner was not even bolted to the head!! Guy was a total hack. Lucky for me no real damage was done (that I could see), so I bolted the tensioner back onto the head and the noise went away. Car still has no power and engine seems to shake at idle. NO CODES present at this time. When the roller was collapsed I did get a "low boost" code or achieved boost not achieved.

I purchased the cam lock tool, cam thingy hex tool and a new tensioner/chain. I CANNOT get the cams to line up in order to insert the cam lock. I am going to guess that this is why the car has no power...its out if time?! Now since I cannot lock the cams to remove the chain, what do I need to do in order to get this thing timed right? I am in over my head a little, but with the right guidance I think I can save this motor. Even when it ran with almost no power, I didnt smoke or knock, so I am guessing valves and compression is ok?!

Can someone give me detailed instruction on how to proceed? I have all the tools but dont want to deal with taking the timing belt off again if the issue is with the cams not being synced.
THANKS!!!
 

nkresho

suck, squish, bang, blow
Location
Pittsburgh
Car(s)
2022 Q3
Sounds like the cams are not in time with each other if you can't get the locking tool in there.

I'd yank the timing chain and the belt (sorry), then get the hold-down tool installed on the cams. Then find exact TDC with the crank and get the belt back on. Do the whole thing from square one.

Here's the cam chain: http://forums.mwerks.com/showthread.php?7013321-A-quick-D-I-Y-Cam-Chain-and-Tensioner-*BPY-engines

Don't rotate the crank a whole revolution with the tool in there. You don't want to risk your valves hitting the piston.
 
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asalterio1

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Southern Oregon
Thanks for replying. I am still confused about a few things.

1. When you say tank, do you mean remove the belt and chain?

2. Even if I take the timing belt off, arnt the cams still unable to move freely because the cam chain is still attached? I cant see how I will get the chain out without locking the cams first. Sorry if my questions are simple to answer, but I have never drove this deep into an engine issue before, But I want to fix it myself.

3. If I am wrong which I hope I am, IF I remove the timing belt, will I be able to move just one cam enough to get the tool to fix? If this is the case I will remove the belt, rotate cams to fit tool, lock cams and then re-time both sides...Does this sound right??

THANKS
 

nkresho

suck, squish, bang, blow
Location
Pittsburgh
Car(s)
2022 Q3
Sorry, mistyped. Meant "yank" the chain and belt.

So once you get the belt off, the cams can move freely from the crank. Then, you pull the cam chain and the cams can move independently of eachother. This requires the sprocket on the exhaust cam to be removed. At this point, you should be able to rotate the cams to get the tool in there.

Then reinstall the cam chain and time the crank.
 

asalterio1

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Southern Oregon
Thats what I figured, but how do I get the chain off when the cam lock tool does not fit?

Can I cut the old chain off then adjust cams to fit the lock tool? Then remove the cam adjuster so I can fit a new chain?

Conflicting ideas coming at me...
 

asalterio1

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Southern Oregon
Also, I am unclear on how to "time" the cams. If the cam lock fits, does that mean cams are synced/timed? I have looked for timing marks on the cams but have not found anything...
Thanks for everyones help!
 

asalterio1

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Southern Oregon
I think you are missing my point. The cam lock tool does not fit between the cams (will not slide between). I am unable to lock the top end in order to remove the cam adjuster.
 
The cam lock tool doesn't lock the cams 100%, it's more of a checking tool and prevents large movement of the cams. Like I said compress the tensioner, hold cam with an 18mm wrench, remove adjuster, reset the timing and go from there...

The exhaust cam is base time and the intake cam is timed to that.

Also...I've done this about a dozen times...indy shops fuck this up alot.
 

asalterio1

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Southern Oregon
Thanks for the tips. Got everything back together but still have an issue. Car is misfiring at idle. Runs great once up and going. Idle seems to be loopy. Codes are P0300/1/2/3/4. No other codes. I dont not have vagcom to log. I just changed the original spark plugs. I believe the coil packs are bad. The car sat for over a year before I got it. Will have the CPs changed tonight and will report back.

Possible caused?
1. Carbon build up...but wouldnt the car run like crap with a load on it?
2. Coil packs?
3. When I did the cams and retimed, I noticed the plunger tip for the HPFP had been worn down a little...I have replaced the follower. No fuel codes
4. Vacuum leak? I just resealed the valve cover gasket. PVC is working to my knowledge.
5. Its running rich, notice fuel stream from the exhaust. Spark plugs are all nice and dry, I doubt its injectors..
6. Could the timing still be off?
 
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