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3D Printer & C.A.D. Thread

dtfd

Autocross Champion
Location
Massachusetts
Car(s)
MK7.5 GTI
I did use some isopropyl alcohol to clean the plate...and it still won't stick. The plate is not glass. It has a rough feel to it.

The first layer looks like its sticking ok...but after a few mins...the print will be all over the place. Is it possible that the nozzle is too close and is touching the print...causing it to move?

This is the sub I'm trying to print. None of the pieces are coming out anything close to the pictures. They are coming out as a blob...like hair in the drain.

https://www.printables.com/model/513349-titan-submarine

Is there another program besides Creality's that may work better? The prints look like they are way too small.
I did my first print with creality's program and then immediately downloaded cura.

Cura's been great.
 

gixxerfool

Autocross Champion
Location
New Jersey
Car(s)
2016 Golf R
This is the filament I'm using.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085NVCSWW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

So there is a way to scale up the print? It does look like the print is way too small. How do you see if the print is the size the designer intended?

I'll try the prusaslicer.

Thanks!
Ok. So PLA likes a bed temp of 60°-65°. I would try to set your first layer to 65° then have it drop to 60°

Some designers don’t design with printing in mind. So there may be no good print face or scale they intended. In Prusaslicer on the right pane you can set a given percentage and it will scale to that size. You can also set a length and make sure you lock the parameters so it scales evenly. For something like this I would recommend a raft.
 

AzteCypher

Go Kart Champion
Location
Austin, TX
Car(s)
Mk7 Golf R
I would try a temp tower as well to see which temp prints best for that specific filament. I've had one filament that I had to print at near the max temp recommendation for it to cooperate with my prints.

On a side note, just started a 36hr print. Longest one for me yet.
 

gixxerfool

Autocross Champion
Location
New Jersey
Car(s)
2016 Golf R
That's what I'm afraid of.
Watch your bed temp. I usually start about 5° higher for the first layer then drop it down. It may be prudent to keep it about 2-3° higher for a longer duration. Then drop it about halfway through the print. Although since I went flexible PEI I stopped having issues provided my first layer and such are correct.
 

dtfd

Autocross Champion
Location
Massachusetts
Car(s)
MK7.5 GTI
Maybe it's because my printer isn't that fast to begin with (I've noticed it's happiest at 50 mm/s and 25 mm/s walls, though that has not been stress tested since I switched to an all-metal hotend) but I've been doing long prints since day one.

After I fixed all my issues I did two calibration cubes and then immediately started a 16 hour print. Granted I did start the print early in my workday and the printer is in my office with me so I was able to keep an eye on it.
 
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AzteCypher

Go Kart Champion
Location
Austin, TX
Car(s)
Mk7 Golf R
I use CHEP's profiles and for most prints I use his extra fast profiles which print at 60mm/s.

Lately I've been trying out shiny/silk/neon filaments and at least on my printer they don't like printing at the faster speeds. I tend to get more artifacts that I don't see when I print at slower speeds and my nozzle has caught on the print more often and move it or dislodge entirely.

This is still my longest print (previous one was 24hrs) but I'm not as confident yet with these shiner filaments.
 

gixxerfool

Autocross Champion
Location
New Jersey
Car(s)
2016 Golf R
I use CHEP's profiles and for most prints I use his extra fast profiles which print at 60mm/s.

Lately I've been trying out shiny/silk/neon filaments and at least on my printer they don't like printing at the faster speeds. I tend to get more artifacts that I don't see when I print at slower speeds and my nozzle has caught on the print more often and move it or dislodge entirely.

This is still my longest print (previous one was 24hrs) but I'm not as confident yet with these shiner filaments.
You may want to set your hotend a tad higher with those filaments. Even though they may be PLA or what have you, the shiny part can throw a wrench into the mix. Sometimes the flow rate can be a little lower at a given temp and all things being equal.
 

GolNat

Autocross Champion
Location
Delaware
Car(s)
13 GTI & 98 Prelude
Eh.. correction.. 50hrs...

Damn! Yeah I haven’t done one that long yet. Some stuff I print would take 8-10 hours but I use a .6 or .8 nozzle to make up some time since I don’t need detail for them.
 

2slowvw

Moderator
Location
VA
Car(s)
2022 Tesla Model 3
Ya unfortunately i found over the years that different filaments from different brands or types may want to be printed at different temps, even PLA from brand A to PLA from brand B. Sometimes i will just print something small or a cube to see if the settings work for the new filament and adjust accordingly.

Also someone asked if you need to level before every print, I dont but it depends on your machine and how much movement the bed has and how much you disrupt the bed when taking off the previous print.
 

gixxerfool

Autocross Champion
Location
New Jersey
Car(s)
2016 Golf R
Ya unfortunately i found over the years that different filaments from different brands or types may want to be printed at different temps, even PLA from brand A to PLA from brand B. Sometimes i will just print something small or a cube to see if the settings work for the new filament and adjust accordingly.

Also someone asked if you need to level before every print, I dont but it depends on your machine and how much movement the bed has and how much you disrupt the bed when taking off the previous print.
You’re better than me. I just go full bore and see what happens. I find that there are some outliers, but on the whole, most will behave the same. I dry all of my filament first though too.
 

GolNat

Autocross Champion
Location
Delaware
Car(s)
13 GTI & 98 Prelude
I used to have more issues with my Elegoo. Maybe the profiles on prusa slicer are more dialed in. They added one for Jessie filament which I try to use exclusively.
 
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