RandomUserName's 2009 MKV GTI build thread...

[RandomUserName]

So today I dove into blueprinting the block. With a few tools, I managed to get quite a surprising result. My tech info lists the cylinder bore as 82.51 stock. Piston diameter is 82.465. I didn't bother to measure the stock pistons, as they are not going back in. Leaving clearance at .045.

I put it into a spreadsheet to correlate the difference, and to use in reference for my engine build sheet.

Using a dial bore gauge, you set it up slightly bigger than your expected measurement, and subtract the fixed length from the measured length, giving you your bore size. Easy right?

What I measured made me pause and think. Take a look.

I set up my tool for 83mm. Since I know stock bore should be 82.51, the measurement should be less than .49. This would indicate wear.

Conditional formatting rules;
Green - Same as stock bore
Yellow - Less than stock bore
Red - Greater than stock bore

Interesting? The bores are less than the factory spec? I have double checked everything and thats what I am measuring. Guess I could always stick with a 82.5mm piston. Could be a little less for machining. If anyone has a bentley and wouldn't mind checking, I'd love a second opinion.

Anyways, I have not yet removed the crank as I don't think it looks to balance on one end very well. Since I am not sure how long it would be out for, I figure its best to just leave it in the block as long as possible.

 

[freshpots]

Near Brantford, Ontario.

Brantford eh? I'm from Toronto. Check your PM inbox :smile:

 

[RandomUserName]

-Update-

The last week has been pretty crazy. I sourced a set of pistons and rods locally. Was set to pull the trigger when I was told of a potential game changer. I don't want to get into it yet, but suffice to say that I might be out testing this car much sooner than I originally planned. My garage is getting full of car bits!

More to come.....

 

[RandomUserName]

-Update-

So I stumbled upon a great deal that a fellow forum member had alerted me to. There was an engine, built by a big, well known tuner, that was being sold. This car had a stage 3+ kit on it, and needless to say, was wrote off. Rear end damage. So the engine, minus the stage 3+ kit, was for sale.

After doing some research, I decided that this might be the best way to get into the game sooner. All the bits that this engine was lacking, could be easily transferred from my existing engine, or replaced, for not much of a cost increase.

Many of the engine builders, in my area, are not so confident when it comes to euro cars, let alone 4 cylinders. I interviewed a few local builders, and they all seemed a little resistant. For whatever reason. Guess they don't like money being thrown their way. Whatever. I did find a few that were excited by the project, but it was going to make MANY MANY months since I wanted to put it together myself.

So I pulled the trigger on the engine. Picked it up this week, and I am working now to remove the flywheel, so I can bolt it to my stand. And start the installation.

One thing that is missing, is the bottom "vee" blocks, for the turbo. I have no idea why they would have been removed, but they're gone.

The engine needs a few things. Fuel pump, vacuum pump, injectors, fuel rail, oil and coolant lines, vee blocks, intake manifold, and the accessories. Yes this is a long list, but easily done with my parts. Or upgraded later if needed.

The engine was clean when I got it. A little oily, but good. I cleaned it down with degreaser today, and set to verifying the story behind it. Engine is a cbfa. All the part #'s come back as upgraded over my existing 09 part #'s. Everything looks brand new. Shinny even.

I have a couple pics now, but I want to get it bolted up to the stand before I start snapping pics.

So this leads me to my next issue. What do I do with my existing engine? Part it out? Rebuild it and sell it as a partial? Upgrade the parts needed on the new engine, and keep all the older parts together for a complete engine sale (w/k03)?

Options, Options. Just takes cash.....

 

[RandomUserName]

So I managed to get the engine bolted up to the stand, and started checking it out. I removed the plugs, and sprayed lube into the chamber. I did the same in the fuel injector holes. Rotated the crank around to see what it felt like. Smooth. Like butter.... I have this good feeling right now....

I have to remove some of the components from my other engine in order to get this one going. Fuel injectors I have decided to re-use. There has been no revised part number from what is in my other head. No use spending 700 if I don't need to. I am going to send them out to get tested and cleaned.

Fuel pump / Vaccum pump - There is a revised version of these pumps out, so I may upgrade them. But they are pretty easy to get to once installed, so I may just re-use them for testing purposes.

Intake manifold - The new one is $200, and I also have a replacement gasket here that I can use should I choose to re-use the stock one.

Coolant lines / Oil lines - This motor is a CBFA. So I had to remove the SAI , and I am going to order a block off plate. There are a few minor difference in the coolant lines, mostly on the water pump side. I am going to re-use what I can, and replace whatever is left. Turbo lines will be custom. 4AN for the feed, something bigger for the return lines. I may even do some custom coolant lines to the turbo. Just for a different look. And so I can keep the stock lines with the other engine, should I decided to build it and sell it.

It has been taking some time, but here are some pics that I have.

Lifting

More Lifting

Mounting Turbo

Intake valves (not very good pic). I haven't cleaned them at this point either.

Better

Mounting

Mounted. K04 bolted and partially prepped

Cleaned

Now, to showcase the man behind the curtain. Issam Abed and INA engineering are lifesavers. Issam went to great lengths, literally, to make sure that I got the engine in a timely matter. Not only has INA gained a customer for life, I also consider myself owing Issam for the amount of time he put into making this happen for me....

Issam - Next time your in my area, let me know. I'll give you the grand tour!

 

[RandomUserName]

-=Update=-

This weekend is D day. The trans will be mated to the engine today, and hopefully by the early hours of Saturday, first tick over will occur. I will get some pics up soon, but getting Amelia purring again is the first job.

 

[zrickety]

Awesome! Good looking motor, hope everything goes smoothly.

 

[RandomUserName]

Engine is installed. Over the past long weekend (for us Canadians), I managed to get the engine installed and started the long road of reassembly. Sunday night, I finished everything. Yesterday I had a few things going on, and today was testing day.

Only 3 issues have arose;

1. Fuel in tank causing misfires. I've been diluting it with 94 every chance I get, but the fuel has been sitting in there for a long time. Could be something else, but I will wait until the next fill up to worry about it.

2. SAI block off plate not in yet. I had to fab on up in order to start testing, it works, but I am not sure how well. This could also lead to other issues, so I am waiting for Issam to get it in.

3. Turbo coolant supply leak. I must not have cranked down hard enough on those washers, but for some reason it is leaking from the banjo bolt. From the back of the block. I can see where it is, but I cannot get to it with the tools that I have. I really don't want to pull the turbo again. I need a set of triple square's that have a hex body, so I can use them with a wrench. Or a triple square wrench!

I'm so close.

 

[Stranded in Daytona]

You can get that triple square from ECS tuning... but maybe someone near you has one?

 

[RandomUserName]

You can get that triple square from ECS tuning... but maybe someone near you has one?

I looked of ECS. They have the flexable ones, but they look like they may be too long also.

I think I need the metalnerd kit.

http://www.urotuning.com/Triple-Square-Bit-Set-in-Blow-Molded-Case-M4-M18-p/mn10pc.htm

I'd be able to use a small wrench with those bits.

 

[zrickety]

It's been some time, did you get it sorted?

 

[RandomUserName]

It's been some time, did you get it sorted?

The ecu has been sent to INA for flashing. Hopefully it will be back this weekend for install.

The SAI block off plate was installed as well. My own fabricated one worked alright, but not great. It leaked a little.

As for the misfires, I've ruled out plugs, coils, fuel filter, and air leak. Looking at the logs, I suspect that it could have something to do with the software. It's always when letting off the throttle, when the TB is closing / closed. We'll see this weekend.

I also have a synapse DV to install, but I need to work out my relocate kit. Ordered some silicone fittings, just need to get them now.

 

[RandomUserName]

Well I have had a run of shit luck lately. And I need to vent.

I sent my ecu away to get flashed AGAIN. This is the 6th time I've had it flashed since July 2012.

The shipping company was plain retarded. I don't know another way to say it. They made it right in the end, but to tell me that "if a company doesn't have a sign, they shouldn't be in business" really pissed me off.

The ecu made its journey to INA Engineering in Ottawa by way of canoe and portage, but eventually got to Issam.

After much more un-needed bullshit, a few phone calls, and some favours called in, it was finally flashed, and Issam turned to UPS to get it back to me Friday.

Perfect.

A nice weekend for testing.

Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!

Get the package, plug it in, reattach the battery, plug in the vcds, and get ready for some logging before work. Turn the car on, click on autscan....


















Address 01: Engine (CCT) Labels: 06J-906-026-CCT.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 907 115 AE HW: 1K0 907 115 AA
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0030
Revision: AAH03--- Serial number: VWX7Z0H93ND8MM
Coding: 0403010A18070160
Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200
VCID: 69D231474051B55623D-803C

4 Faults Found:
005000 - Control Module Malfunction - DBW Throttle Monitoring
P1388 - 000 - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 134955 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 00:04:14

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 15.0°C
Temperature: 16.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 960.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.192 V

005497 - Throttle Actuator (J338)
P1579 - 000 - Adaptation Not Started
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 134955 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 00:04:14

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 15.0°C
Temperature: 16.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 960.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.192 V

I'm going to bitchslap the car gods.

I've seen these 2 faults before. They can't be cleared. They cause a epc, extreme idle hunting. 10 IN HG vacuum, when 2 days before i was running 21. When the engine warms up, it sounds like a machine gun. It's not a good sight. It cost me 5 MONTHS of downtime this year already.........

So yeah I'm pissed.

Flash timeline;
1 - Euroline performance - stg 2 - obd port - ok
2 - Apr - K04 - Benchflash - NG
2a - APR = K04 - Benchflash - verification - NG
3 - Euroline performance - stock - obd port - ok
4 - Euroline performance - K04 - obd port - ok
5 - Euroline performance - stock - obd port - ok
6 - INA Engineering - k04 - benchflash - NG

See a pattern here?

I am not a programmer, nor do I claim to be. I'm a problem solver. That's what I do.

The problem that I am seeing is that my ecu does not like to be benchflashed, and I'm not letting anyone drive my car, with a clutch that has 300 k on it. Sorry. That's not an option.

I called APR today. The person I talked to seem to know something about what is happening. My car currently is pretty stock. I only have a DP, boost tap, and clutch. Besides the k04.

I think we've all seen the posts about people switching tunes. It's no surprise. APR was the poster boy of the scene, but these new players are coming up and taking some of their gains. When your #1, there's but one place to go.

I am giving APR the chance to make this right. But, I am stating here and now that I WILL NOT pay 1 more cent towards getting the ecu flashed. I have paid over $700 in shipping and duties just on sending the ecu to APR twice, and to INA once.

Funny how if I send a part that I own across the border to get "processed" that I have to pay a tax on that? Is that not a Value Added Tax?

But I digress......

I have spent more money than I care to share on this situation. And no matter how much I spend, with the items that I have currently, I CANT MAKE THIS DAMN THING WORK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The guy at APR kept talking about this beta file coming out. I'm interested to see if it fixes this issue. It could, and hopefully will. But otherwise, I have no other option than to try another company.

Now, here comes the kicker. I reported issues with the original flash within the 30 day guarantee window. I have emails, and phone calls that show it. So technically, I shouldn't have a problem getting somewhat made whole.

They owe me. I don't care for bullshit. 5 months without this car was 100% related to the flash. Documented, and witnessed by more than 10 people.

 

[Stranded in Daytona]

damn... good luck with all that. I've been thinking about switching to Unitronic myself.

 

[RandomUserName]

damn... good luck with all that. I've been thinking about switching to Unitronic myself.

Switching software may be the only way to go. THIS IS BULLSHIT. No other way to put it.

APR, I WANT THE BETA FILE NOW!

Either that, or maybe they should pick up the tab for all the shipping and towing costs, at the very least.

That's what EXCEPTIONAL companies do.