Eurojet Electronic Boost Guage Install Instructions

I figure with all the drama that went on with the Eurojet thread and lack of solid instructions I would post. Picking through the thread and finally adding to Eurojet's website was some info which to a first time installer such as myself, was not super clear and helpful.

ENGINE BAY
1)Remove the battery.
2)Remove the battery box completely
3)Take the engine cover off.
4)When the battery box is removed a ruber Round-ish plug is clearly visible and esily popped out ith your finger from the inside of the car. (my car is a DSG so I am unsure if this plug is reserved for a manual tranny or not. If so there is other places to feed through but this is the easiest.
5)Drill a small hole or punch a hole once this plug is in your possession large enough for the longer electronic wire.
6)Feed the the wire through and pop the plug back in.
7)At this point I installed my 42DD tap not included of course but thats another DIY thread. It's easy though.
8)Run a hose from the tap to the Electronic sender. Sender should be fairly close to the TAP.
9)Mount the Sender to the mystery threaded hole that is on the battery box. ( I know you've said "hey, I wonder what that hole is for") Here is your chance to use it. (I have a drwer full of bolts and nuts I save whenever I take shit apart)
10)Make sure you mount the filter inline between the tap and sender.
11)Tighten up the massive slack on the electical cord towards the cabin, leave a little slack. You are done with the engine bay.

INTERIOR
12)Open the driver door and take off the gray plastic fuse box cover
13) Pop out the headlight switch (push in and twist clockwise than pull) and unclip the wiring harness.
14) Remove he paneling around the headlight switch. Theres 4 torx screws (I think T20). Two are down in the footwell (they face the driver seat). One is in the hole where the headlight switch was and One is under the plastic piece above the steering wheel mount (just pull it, its clipped on.
15)Remove the vent. I used a tiny flat head screwdriver. The bottom end should pop out and you should be able to wiggle the rest out.
16)Now take the vent, remove the oem cover and angling fins inside. Do not forget the fins as I fiddled with this for about 20 minutes trying to figure out why it almost fit.
17)Cut a small hole in the side of the vent box somewhere so that you can pass the two wires through and connect to the new gauge which you should mount now and connect the wires.
18)Put the vent back in.
19)Take the shorter wire with the 4 open ends and open about 6 inches of the black covering exposing the 4 wires, it will make your life easier.

WIRING (this was the confusing part and why I started this thread as the solution for the blue was difficult to find and Eurojet released nothing for about a week)
20)Black is ground and can be wrapped around about any metal bolt in the area.
21)Red and White wires into a fuse slot in the top row of the fuse box. Use a spare fuse to hold the wires in place.
22)Orange wire splices it into the gray wire that goes into the #10 spot on the headlight switch harness. That is the SOLID Grey wire. The other Grey wire has a stripe and is not correct.
23)If you attemt to try out the gauge to test before buttoning everything up, It must have the dimmer plug connected and be at full level or the gauge will flash colors and not work.
24)It should be white till you flip the headlights on then it should turn Blue. If it does not check your wiring and plug connections and that dimmer switch.
25)Put your interior back together.

Personally do not like the brightness of this gauge at night as it is literally 2 or 3x brighter than stock. I believer there is a slight drain on the factory gauges dimming them a little. I am not satisfied as it is very distracting.

The Vent pod should have been angled towards the driver as it is a bit hard to read. If I can pick up an AWE vent I will switch this as I will live with the Brightness of the sun but the angle irritates me.

I did forget to take some pics along the way but i hope what I did snap will be helpful.

I forgot there was a DIY section if a Mod needs to move this. I hope this helps someone who was in my situation.

Oh a side note. I have read conflicting answers on if your APR software gets reset or but in lockdown mode when the battery is removed.

My car did not respond to the set button on the stalk so no flashing. The car was locked-out mode. Punched in my code and I was good to go.

Nice write up. Sorry to hear the gauge didn't turn out exactly as expected. Quick question in regards to the length of the wires from the gauge...do you think there is enough wiring to reach a steering gauge pod set-up?

2wdBlazer said:

Personally do not like the brightness of this gauge at night as it is literally 2 or 3x brighter than stock. I believer there is a slight drain on the factory gauges dimming them a little. I am not satisfied as it is very distracting.

The Vent pod should have been angled towards the driver as it is a bit hard to read.

Click to expand...

Sorry to hear that this setup was not what you expected. I'm sure a lot of people are in the same boat as you. How is the colormatch. Is it close, spot on, or not even close? Maybe it is hard to tell because of the brightness difference.

Love the look of the gauge Kris. How do you like it on the left side though? If you could go back would you get the pod on the steering cluster? Right air vent or Left??

rbradleymedmd said:

Nice write up. Sorry to hear the gauge didn't turn out exactly as expected. Quick question in regards to the length of the wires from the gauge...do you think there is enough wiring to reach a steering gauge pod set-up?

Click to expand...

I think the wires would need more length added to do any installs other than what they intended. If you are referring to a Column mount, I would not attempt that as the brightness is overwhelming and could be very distracting right in front of your face.


As far as the color goes, I think it is spot on. It is as bright as a super nova star exploding. I would Sway anyone who wanted to buy this away because of this. Unless they can create a fix to dim it down by half, do not do it. I hear the CIM gauge is perfect for color and brightness if you want an electronic gauge.


Rob, As far as doing it all over. I would get the CIM Center Vent. The position of a right side vent is perfect as my arm blocks this gauge anless I hold the wheel special to look at it. I'm not a fan of the column mounts either because it partially blocks the TaCH and your seat needs to adjusted just right.

Again, I will live with what I have because I am Lazy (Took me long time to install and it's all wired up nicely). I will buy an AWE vent pod if I can ever find one as the straight angle on this thing is horrible. It being way left and no angle give an illusion like it's angled the other way slightly.

I feel that coupled with a better pod, ie one angled towards the driver, this EJ gauge would be much easier to live with.

I can deal with the brightness, although I would like it dimmer, but the fact that it's hard to read due to the angles bothers me the most.

2wdblazer - is your gauge usually sitting at 24 vacuum? Mine is always at 22, which I still believe is normal but just wondering. Also when you turn the car off yours just stays at whatever the last reading was, correct?

I think the gauge should return to full vacuum because there is no power to the gauge, therefore the needle should drop. I may be wrong since this gauge is different.

V2.0T said:

I think the gauge should return to full vacuum because there is no power to the gauge, therefore the needle should drop. I may be wrong since this gauge is different.

Click to expand...

The way mine works is obviously I'm idling before I turn the gauge off so my gauges reads 22 vacuum. I turn the car off and it just stays there, then upon turning the car back on it does its opening ceremony.

vwinva said:

I feel that coupled with a better pod, ie one angled towards the driver, this EJ gauge would be much easier to live with.

I can deal with the brightness, although I would like it dimmer, but the fact that it's hard to read due to the angles bothers me the most.

2wdblazer - is your gauge usually sitting at 24 vacuum? Mine is always at 22, which I still believe is normal but just wondering. Also when you turn the car off yours just stays at whatever the last reading was, correct?

Click to expand...

It has been about 23 usually. I really don't think it matters if it's 22 or 24 though.

If you put the red on constant power, then the needle will drop all the way down and do the ending flashing ceremony when you turn off the car. Since you powered the gauge from the ACC, everything just turns off right away instead of going through its shutdown procedure.

Also for the brightness, something between a 20-40 ohm resistor would do the trick I believe. I'm not sure what I have my potentiometer set at but its a 1k one and I have it turned almost all the way to one side. It was 20ohm's in my lab when I had it on a 12V supply to get brightness match. When the car is on though, its 14V so the resistance would need to be higher slightly. I actually turned the brightness back up after a while. The white color actually looks nice too as a contrast so I might switch to always white. Just my opinion though.

About the angle, I've gotten used to it not facing directly at me and have started to like it because I don't actually want to see the boost needle moving all the time. It's distracting.

I feel the center vent actually is the best location and I should have held out for one of those. Looking left and moving my left arm to read is annoying. Column mount had you looking down. Center vent has your eyes on the road at all times.

I will deal for now and maybe swith at some point but not after this recent of an install. I still have my DP to worry about getting on.

twong85 said:

Also for the brightness, something between a 20-40 ohm resistor would do the trick I believe. I'm not sure what I have my potentiometer set at but its a 1k one and I have it turned almost all the way to one side. It was 20ohm's in my lab when I had it on a 12V supply to get brightness match. When the car is on though, its 14V so the resistance would need to be higher slightly.

Click to expand...

Have you tried this in the car yet?

I installed this in my car over a week ago. I adjust the pot for whatever brightness I want.