Mango
Gym Rat
- Location
- South Jersey
- Car(s)
- 07' GTI, 07' SRT8
I just GIAC'd my car, with stock plugs. Also did the Turbo Back exhaust. Should I change to the NGK plugs which are one step colder? Is that the plugs listed in this thread? Thanks.
Nice write-up! I'm not sure what the stock gap is on that plug or what VW recommends.
On the 1.8t side of the house we found that the NGK BKR6E (one step colder than stock) worked best at a gap of .028 (best bottom-end response) for stock configurations in hot weather (less chance of detonation in hot climates) and for modded engines (bigger than stock turbos).
Several of us use the Jacobs Electronics plug gapper because it places the side electrode in perfect alignment with the center electrode as it was stock for the manufacture.
Tool:
Detailed info:
Also, being old school and having built several Aircooled and Watercooled engines and raced a lot... it would help in placing just a dab of oil or some lubricant and the plugs threads before re-installing. They will never cease up on you, nor will you ever have to heli coil! Aluminum heads gather a lot of heat and have to disapate it too.
Example of old school Aircooled Horse Power (this in the "old VW Bug" would Kill your MKV GTI):
Well today I instaled my new spark plugs from Fixx tuning, the Bosch plats. Seems the material that the spark plug body is made of was very weak, and I tightened them to spec and the body of the spark plug BROKE OFF of the threaded portion. Now I have 4 threads and electrodes stuck inside my cylinder head.....
I've contacted fixx tuning to see if they will replace the plugs. I've done this dozens of times, and believe me I did not over tighten them. I have a torque wrench strictly for plugs.... I had the bar set to the exact Nm spec.
I just GIAC'd my car, with stock plugs. Also did the Turbo Back exhaust. Should I change to the NGK plugs which are one step colder? Is that the plugs listed in this thread? Thanks.
NGK BKR7EIX (Iridium, one heat range cooler than factory plugs)
Also, being old school and having built several Aircooled and Watercooled engines and raced a lot... it would help in placing just a dab of oil or some lubricant and the plugs threads before re-installing. They will never cease up on you, nor will you ever have to heli coil! Aluminum heads gather a lot of heat and have to disapate it too.
I know its an old DIY, but I was just working on this today, and could NOT get one of the coilpacks to unhook... 3 out of 4 just "clicked" like you mentioned when rocking the plastic tab back.. but one of them just refuuuused to budge, after applying all kinds of different pressure and adding leverage...
anyone run into this? know of a solution?
Yeah one was like that for me too..the one furthest to the left...and i basically had to BREAK the "hook"/"Fastener"/"clip"...it still stayed on with that part broken after the install, because the other 3 coils still "Clicked" into place.