donjuan1jr
whats a turbo?
- Location
- East of queens west of hamptons
Dude get a long 6mm...wtf
Depending if i have another guy help you can get the trans out with the subframe in...its obviously easier without.
V
My clutch installation thread 2007 GTI FSI
- Thread starter nkresho
- Start date
Dude get a long 6mm...wtf
Depending if i have another guy help you can get the trans out with the subframe in...its obviously easier without.
eurocars
5/17/15 - Never forget
- Location
- Indianapolis
- Car(s)
- 2006 GTI
huh?
can be done with two people, if I have help its easier to push it into place from underneath with two people vs using a trans jack imo
Cryptic1911
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- CT
- Car(s)
- 2008.5 GTI
He means get a long 6mm allen socket to take the axle flange out instead of grinding it.. It takes 10 seconds to remove it
donjuan1jr
whats a turbo?
- Location
- East of queens west of hamptons
:word:
nkresho
suck, squish, bang, blow
- Location
- Pittsburgh
- Car(s)
- 2022 Q3
Unfortunately I have an update to add to this thread.
Last month I made the change into my 100 octane file.
I've done a lot of highway miles since, driving back and forth from DC for work. About 250 miles each way.
If I go WOT at lower RPM (2000 or so) and let the gear run out, in 5th or 6th, I can make the clutch slip about 500-1000RPM until it catches.
I know that this is just the beginning, so I am going to baby it to see how it goes. I may go back to the 93oct tune to see if I can maintain it.
I'm just over 70k total, about 30k on the clutch I replaced.
Last month I made the change into my 100 octane file.
I've done a lot of highway miles since, driving back and forth from DC for work. About 250 miles each way.
If I go WOT at lower RPM (2000 or so) and let the gear run out, in 5th or 6th, I can make the clutch slip about 500-1000RPM until it catches.
I know that this is just the beginning, so I am going to baby it to see how it goes. I may go back to the 93oct tune to see if I can maintain it.
I'm just over 70k total, about 30k on the clutch I replaced.
clockwise33
New York Giants Fanatic
- Location
- NJ
Sorry to hear that, looks like an aftermarket clutch is in your future.
I actually just used this thread this weekend to replace the clutch and DMF on my stage 2 @ 93,000 miles. Clutch was slipping and DMF had lots if play. I did the job with the subframe in place, but removed the charge pipe and diconnected the downpipe. The trick is to pull the trans about 2 inches from the motor and rotate the rear of the trans up, and it slides right out.
BTW does anyone have the torque spec on the 6mm allen in the center of the axle flange?
I actually just used this thread this weekend to replace the clutch and DMF on my stage 2 @ 93,000 miles. Clutch was slipping and DMF had lots if play. I did the job with the subframe in place, but removed the charge pipe and diconnected the downpipe. The trick is to pull the trans about 2 inches from the motor and rotate the rear of the trans up, and it slides right out.
BTW does anyone have the torque spec on the 6mm allen in the center of the axle flange?
Great write up! I am thinking about tackling this myself as well but I guess I should be sure that this is what I actually need to do.
I will give a little bit of back story on my car.
My car is a 2006 GLI with now 132K miles. But around 115K I installed air ride myself. While I was at it I wanted to paint my calipers black (don't like the red). So I pulled the calipers and it drained the system as you could imagine.
Ended up taking a little bit longer to finish up the air ride so I decided to ditch the calipers and just put them back on.
Did what I knew from previous cars which was just doing each corner of the cars brakes while someone pushes on the brakes while you bleed the air out and close the bleeder cap. This didn't work at all and then I found out there is a master cylinder that has to be opened via vagcom to bleed the system so I ended up just taking it to a shop just around the corner from me.
Side note - Yes I drove it there but coasted it most of the way using the e-brake to stop. The system was full on brand new OEM fluid and the clutch pedal felt just as it usually did when taking it there.
They did the full thing and once I got it back the clutch felt super weird to me. I couldn't tell if it was cause I had been driving an automatic for that past two weeks and forgot what it felt like but after driving it for a few days I decided that it wasn't right.
I took it back and they did it again and it didn't change a thing a still made me pay again. (Keep in mind this is not a VW or Euro specialty shop)
So I just dealt with it.
The symptom that I got back from them, and have had since is that the clutch doesn't engage till at least 50% released, if not higher. It also makes a very slight rubbing/grinding sound. (Brakes work perfect though)
With this being said does anyone have a pretty solid idea of what I need to replace or do to fix it?
I've heard some people saying it can just be tightened so that it engages when it should, air still in the system, the clutch, etc.
I'm prepared to do a clutch replacement if I have to, but I would hate to go through all that just to find out it was something simple.
Also, what symptoms should I be experiencing if my clutch is slipping?
Thanks for any help and tips!
I will give a little bit of back story on my car.
My car is a 2006 GLI with now 132K miles. But around 115K I installed air ride myself. While I was at it I wanted to paint my calipers black (don't like the red). So I pulled the calipers and it drained the system as you could imagine.
Ended up taking a little bit longer to finish up the air ride so I decided to ditch the calipers and just put them back on.
Did what I knew from previous cars which was just doing each corner of the cars brakes while someone pushes on the brakes while you bleed the air out and close the bleeder cap. This didn't work at all and then I found out there is a master cylinder that has to be opened via vagcom to bleed the system so I ended up just taking it to a shop just around the corner from me.
Side note - Yes I drove it there but coasted it most of the way using the e-brake to stop. The system was full on brand new OEM fluid and the clutch pedal felt just as it usually did when taking it there.
They did the full thing and once I got it back the clutch felt super weird to me. I couldn't tell if it was cause I had been driving an automatic for that past two weeks and forgot what it felt like but after driving it for a few days I decided that it wasn't right.
I took it back and they did it again and it didn't change a thing a still made me pay again. (Keep in mind this is not a VW or Euro specialty shop)
So I just dealt with it.
The symptom that I got back from them, and have had since is that the clutch doesn't engage till at least 50% released, if not higher. It also makes a very slight rubbing/grinding sound. (Brakes work perfect though)
With this being said does anyone have a pretty solid idea of what I need to replace or do to fix it?
I've heard some people saying it can just be tightened so that it engages when it should, air still in the system, the clutch, etc.
I'm prepared to do a clutch replacement if I have to, but I would hate to go through all that just to find out it was something simple.
Also, what symptoms should I be experiencing if my clutch is slipping?
Thanks for any help and tips!
To be clear, they bled your clutch as well as the brakes?
If your clutch engages higher up than it used to, and they only touched hydraulics, then the clutch line probably had air in it before and you were used to it. Clutch biting halfway up is fine as long as you're sure it fully engages. The rubbing noise could be anything but one explanation is it was always there and you became suspicious and noticed it after feeling the changed clutch pedal.
Is there actually a problem with your clutch? Does it engage like it used to, aside from the higher engagement point?
If your clutch engages higher up than it used to, and they only touched hydraulics, then the clutch line probably had air in it before and you were used to it. Clutch biting halfway up is fine as long as you're sure it fully engages. The rubbing noise could be anything but one explanation is it was always there and you became suspicious and noticed it after feeling the changed clutch pedal.
Is there actually a problem with your clutch? Does it engage like it used to, aside from the higher engagement point?
From what I read before I took it to the mechanic, the master cylinder that gets opened via vagcom allows you to do all brakes as well as clutch since they share the some fluid. With me reading/knowing this I told them this when I took it too them. They also told me they flushed it when I got it back from them both times. However who knows what mechanics really do behind closed doors.
I've owned this car for 2 years now, and it was my first turbo vehicle so I am still becoming more familiar with them.
I've seen and read that a sign of a clutch slipping is if you accelerate and the RPM's rev up and the car isn't moving. However I don't know if thats the same for a turbo'd vehicle. The reason I say this is sometimes I will accelerate and the turbo will cut out a sputter.
It does seem to still engage as it use to, but the point of where it bites now is annoying and I don't seem to have as much control since its very touch since now I only have 50% of what I use to. Sometimes it makes me feel like I don't know how to drive a clutch which I know I do since thats all I've driven since I started driving at 16 and I'm now almost 25.
I'm tempted to just take it to a VW specific mechanic or dealership and see if the can diagnose and or fix it with a simple bleeding again...but done properly.
I've owned this car for 2 years now, and it was my first turbo vehicle so I am still becoming more familiar with them.
I've seen and read that a sign of a clutch slipping is if you accelerate and the RPM's rev up and the car isn't moving. However I don't know if thats the same for a turbo'd vehicle. The reason I say this is sometimes I will accelerate and the turbo will cut out a sputter.
It does seem to still engage as it use to, but the point of where it bites now is annoying and I don't seem to have as much control since its very touch since now I only have 50% of what I use to. Sometimes it makes me feel like I don't know how to drive a clutch which I know I do since thats all I've driven since I started driving at 16 and I'm now almost 25.
I'm tempted to just take it to a VW specific mechanic or dealership and see if the can diagnose and or fix it with a simple bleeding again...but done properly.
Siberian
New member
- Location
- Providence/Cambridge
what is the torque specification for the 6mm hex bolt holding flange shaft to transmission?!
clockwise33
New York Giants Fanatic
- Location
- NJ
33nm according to this thread:
http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73022
As for my 2nd stock clutch... Yesterday, merging onto the highway, laid on the throttle in 4th at about 2700rpm, and it slipped about 300rpm. It felt like a punch in the stomach. I only got 12,000 miles out of it. I will be upgrading to a Sach SRE for stock DMF and will eventually move up to a K04 now that I will have the clutch for it. I gambled on a second stock clutch mainly because I was able to get a brand new LuK clutch kit for 145 on rockauto (the price is now 230), as apposed to about 675 for Sachs SRE. The good news is, having pulled the trans last April, its still fresh in my mind and should go quick.
nkresho
suck, squish, bang, blow
- Location
- Pittsburgh
- Car(s)
- 2022 Q3
Sorry to hear. I'm at 40k+ and counting on mine. K04 for nearly the whole time. I try to never slip it though, i prefer jerky driving to having to pull the trans again.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
clockwise33
New York Giants Fanatic
- Location
- NJ
If I gently lay on the power, it will hold. However, if I stab the throttle while in gear or shift and get back on the power aggressively it slips. I'm just tired of babying it. Also as the car get older, and my son gets older, I plan on turning the car into more of a track rat for us both to learn track driving with.
The one thing that always made me second guess putting on a stiffer pressure plate is increased force on the thrust washers. I've read that the 2.0tfsi has half of the thrust washer surface compared to the 1.8t (1/2 way around the crank vs all the way around), and that can make the 2.0tfsi more prone to crank walk when fitting stiffer pressure plates. I've only ever seen one case of crank walk on these forums so I guess its not much of a concern.
nkresho
suck, squish, bang, blow
- Location
- Pittsburgh
- Car(s)
- 2022 Q3
That suuuucks.
Mine used to slip only in higher gear, getting into WOT at lower RPM, then as it reached peak, around 3500 it would slip for a second or two then catch up higher. Yours sounds a little worse.
Please snap some pick when you pull it apart. I'm curious how the pressure plate and the disc look with it slipping so severely.
Can you switch tunes in the meantime? I imagine it would not slip in the lower-timing settings.
Mine used to slip only in higher gear, getting into WOT at lower RPM, then as it reached peak, around 3500 it would slip for a second or two then catch up higher. Yours sounds a little worse.
Please snap some pick when you pull it apart. I'm curious how the pressure plate and the disc look with it slipping so severely.
Can you switch tunes in the meantime? I imagine it would not slip in the lower-timing settings.
For those people who stumble across this diy, there is a cheaper source for replacement bolts of the 1 time use stretch bolts. Not as complete as esc, but if you get a kit that includes the flywheel bolts, this is a nice addition and $100 cheaper.
~$53 shipped
http://www.hstuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=3948
~$53 shipped
http://www.hstuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=3948