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My clutch installation thread 2007 GTI FSI

POPOV

New member
Location
SWEDEN
Followed this guide last weekend when changing my clutch and got all in place at the first attempt. Never done any clutch changing before but with this guide it is easy! It took my almost two days as i was taking it slow but it got me right true it without big issues, thanks!!

Advise from me is to remove both flange shafts of the transmission (gearbox). If not removed they are in the way when you try to pull down the transmission and when you need to push it back. Just remember to empty the transmission of the oil before removing the transmission from the car. With the flange shafts removed the transmission is opened up and oil will spill out. This way you can put the oil back when you are done or simply just replace it with new.
 

nkresho

suck, squish, bang, blow
Location
Pittsburgh
Car(s)
2022 Q3
Glad to have helped. Good idea about the output flanges. It would have lessened the amount of manipulation needed to get the transmission off the engine.
 

vath

Ready to race!
Location
east PA
Car(s)
2009 GTI
subscribed

mine just started slipping this week at about 3000-3500rpm... I think i'll drop down to stock chipset for a while and start researching which route i wanna go.

I'll be reading this DIY a few times over. thanks :thumbup: I'm assuming my 09 TSI will be very similar...
 
Location
Pikeville, KY
Car(s)
Subaru
sorry for the bump, but im looking at doing this. if my bro in law and i work on it, could we get this done in a weekend? i know you said 10hrs, but neither of us have messed with cars like this. i mostly messed with my old mustang and he messed with old 4x4 toyotas.

what was the hardest part?

im wanting to race my friends cobalt but my clutch slips at about 16psi
 

nkresho

suck, squish, bang, blow
Location
Pittsburgh
Car(s)
2022 Q3
Hardest part for me was getting the tranny off the engine output shaft.

It would have taken less time to drop the subframe and slide it right out. That would require an alignment afterwards though. Having a helper would have made this a ton easier. I did the whole job myself, so the pushing the engine towards the front of the car, while trying to twist the transmission off was kinda a bitch.

Before this install, I installed a couple clutches and a LSD on ford focuses which have a very similar layout. I've also built heads and blocks for the same Zetec engines. So, I definitely didn't go into the install a newb.

That said, it's a pretty straightforward install. You're going to want to have a decent tool collection as well as the ability to properly torque everything.

If you're doing a stock clutch, be sure to check out the DMF. I haven't found a real solid definition of what is in spec and what isn't. If it has "too much play" then it needs to be replaced as well. Mine was fine (IMHO), but I can't really quantify what "fine" means. If you're going aftermarket, the SMF will be just fine.

Make sure to have some loctite for the flywheel bolts, some brake fluid for the clutch, triple squares where needed, and a good deal of patience.
 
Location
Pikeville, KY
Car(s)
Subaru
Cool man. Thanks. I might try and tackle this job myself. I think Mrbikle said ~10mm or something like that of play on the dmf. Might be wrong on that. I might just try out the same clutch you got. Do you have to buy the installation kit like they sell on ecs?


Sent from my iPhone
 

bill6211789

Ready to race!
Location
Albany, NY
I dropped the subframe and it was wayyyyyy wasier, i did thr clutch 3x this summer and never got an alignment after it i just marked everything really well and everything stayed pretty in check.

But the 100$ for an alignment is worth the extra wiggle room

Sent from my Galaxy SIII
 

nkresho

suck, squish, bang, blow
Location
Pittsburgh
Car(s)
2022 Q3
I don't want to say you don't need that clutch install kit , but I didn't use it when I did mine.

Most of the bolts that come with the kit are the stretch bolts though. It would be a great idea to replace them.

I would never reuse the flywheel bolts if you have to replace it. Most of the others didn't really bother me.

Just thought of this too... For bleeding the clutch, I used a motive brake bleeder. Since you'll have a helper, you can get away with having one person press the clutch while the other loosens the bleeder. Then tighten it up before releasing the pedal. repeat until all the bubbles are gone. Kinda a pain in the ass with one person.

Also, having the driveshaft on the passenger side reinstalled after you get the tranny off will allow you to put the car in gear, press the brake, and have the flywheel stay in place while you loosen and tighten everything up.
 

intercool

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Southeast MI
Car(s)
2008 GTI
nkresho, how many miles on the clutch on stage 1/2+ and how many are on it with the K04 now? I'm curious as I have 72K miles on my stock clutch with about half those miles with stage 1 APR. I plan to do a little more performance work and a K04 at the most. Seems like sticking with OEM is a good, quiet (and cheap) option.
 

nkresho

suck, squish, bang, blow
Location
Pittsburgh
Car(s)
2022 Q3
nkresho, how many miles on the clutch on stage 1/2+ and how many are on it with the K04 now? I'm curious as I have 72K miles on my stock clutch with about half those miles with stage 1 APR. I plan to do a little more performance work and a K04 at the most. Seems like sticking with OEM is a good, quiet (and cheap) option.

I've only got a few thousand miles on the k04, so far. Still holding just fine though.

At 72k, i'd probably just replace the DMF too.
 
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