clockwise33
New York Giants Fanatic
- Location
- NJ
Does your brake pedal become stiff after the car sits over night?
V
Fighting with P2177 (running lean)
- Thread starter Finder
- Start date
Does your brake pedal become stiff after the car sits over night?
Im so tired of seeing this code... it didnt turn up until after shop installed my k04 and they cant figure out why its happening and are already saying I need to take it somewhere else for a diagnosis. It has already been smoke and pressure tested, installed new hoses, gaskets etc.
What tune and injectors?
It does. What does this mean?
clockwise33
New York Giants Fanatic
- Location
- NJ
It means there is at least a small air leak in the brake booster system.
clockwise33
New York Giants Fanatic
- Location
- NJ
I would think a leak in the booster is unlikely. More likely just the vacuum line from the booster to the back of the cylinder head coolant flange.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-kayser-parts/brake-booster-hose/1k0612041kc~kay/
high_octane3541
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- McKinney, TX
I've had my booster pop when doing a launch back in the day lol. Never did a launch again
I've replaced that hose 2 years ago and the one in the front, that connects to the manifold, vacuum pump, EVAP line and booster.
I removed them completely yesterday, checked them for cracks and they are perfect. Valves don't leak. I've put them back and tested with my hand vacuum pump and they are good.
I've also managed to isolate and test each hose path and while I recently said the brake booster doesn't hold vacuum, it turns out that it does. It was the engine vacuum pump that was leaking vacuum in my test. Seems to be normal as I've also tested my old vacuum pump and it behaved the same.
This week I also replaced the N205 valve as I discovered that it was leaking oil through the electrical plug.
If anyone is still reading this and wondering, I still haven't fixed my lean condition.
Some other things that I've done since:
-tried my old vacuum pump which was only replaced because it has the old seal design that is prone to leaking oil.
-tried a new rev.D DV.
-pulled intake manifold and injectors. Cleaned valves, flaps, injectors, TB. Pulled everything (flap motor, throttle body, fuel lines...) off the intake manifold and inspected it thoroughly for cracks. Found nothing, reinstalled everything back. The car drives smoother because of the valve cleaning but fuel trims are still at 16.
Things I'm considering next:
-replacing the o-ring between the lower and upper dipstick tube and dipstick o-ring.
-crankshaft seal (belt side). The other "rear" main seal (behind flywheel) was replaced about 1.5 years ago when my transmission was out to be rebuilt. However I'm not sure these seals affect the FSI engine's vacuum like the rear main seal is doing on the newer TSI engine. I hope I can get an opinion on this from someone.
-replacing the plastic intake manifold. I see these are made out of 2 parts that are glued together. Any chance a crack might be somewhere where these are joined together and cracking open just slightly when the engine is hot and under pressure?
Some other things that I've done since:
-tried my old vacuum pump which was only replaced because it has the old seal design that is prone to leaking oil.
-tried a new rev.D DV.
-pulled intake manifold and injectors. Cleaned valves, flaps, injectors, TB. Pulled everything (flap motor, throttle body, fuel lines...) off the intake manifold and inspected it thoroughly for cracks. Found nothing, reinstalled everything back. The car drives smoother because of the valve cleaning but fuel trims are still at 16.
Things I'm considering next:
-replacing the o-ring between the lower and upper dipstick tube and dipstick o-ring.
-crankshaft seal (belt side). The other "rear" main seal (behind flywheel) was replaced about 1.5 years ago when my transmission was out to be rebuilt. However I'm not sure these seals affect the FSI engine's vacuum like the rear main seal is doing on the newer TSI engine. I hope I can get an opinion on this from someone.
-replacing the plastic intake manifold. I see these are made out of 2 parts that are glued together. Any chance a crack might be somewhere where these are joined together and cracking open just slightly when the engine is hot and under pressure?
gtimakesmebroke
Passed Driver's Ed
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
I'm currently fighting the same issue, gone through the same steps in replacing parts as you and still having the issue. Granted it's not all the same, as I'm APR stage 2+ on a K03, but everything is the same as you. My trims from MB 33 show my lpfp correction shooting to 27% at idle. I feel your frustrations for sure
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
LPFP is not in your top post...group 231. Make sure the actual isn't dropping below 4 bar. Given your hpfp request is still at 130 bar and if lpfp actual isn't below 4 bar, your 1st O2 and fuel filter is new...I'd be leaning toward injectors plugged as well. My tuned "giac K04 HO" has been requesting just 110 bar rather than 140 bar because my lpfp actual drops to 3.5 bar after 6k rpm. My hpfp request won't go back up until it sees that the lpfp actual is no longer dropping below the 4 bar minimum. This behavior differs from yours as mine needs more lpfp amps and pump upgrade. If my data looked like yours...and I knew the O2, MAF, and fuel filter were good...I would think injectors or build-up around them due to carbon build-up is at fault. Try cleaning it all with injector cleaner in the tank and a blow-by through the throttle body or IAT sensor(or do a manual carbon removal) and if still present...might just be a plugged injector beyond repair.