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SUPAPRO Supaloy control arms

JT64

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Chandler, AZ
Car(s)
BMW X3 35i M Sport
Nice, post up your review once you get them on. I would like to hear from a MK5 guy about the advantages of the lighter arms. Since theres so little difference between the MK6 and Superpro LCA's in terms of weight their reviews arent nearly as helpful.

Why dont you go for the 034 Mounts? They have a tested 75 durameter bushing over the TT mounts which are actually lower durameter than stock MK5 mounts.

#1 I don't want the ride to be overly harsh (it's my DD ) #2 My experience with 034 products isn't great & same goes for there shop, & #3 the bruce recommended the TT mounts. Plus combined with what I've done so far (see build thread) & with what I'm going to do it will perform just fine.:thumbsup:
 

the bruce

Go Kart Champion
Location
land
Car(s)
Golf GTI Mk.V 2008
Could some one help me out here See post #27 http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showth...t=56448&page=2 What would really help is a picture diagram pointing to what specs go where as I can't quite make sense of this ??

Component Tightening Specification
Mounting bracket to consolet Use new bolts.
50 Nm + 90° turn
Mounting bracket to body Use new bolts.
70 Nm + 90° turn
Ball joint to steel control arm Use new nuts.
60 Nm
Ball joint to sheet steel or aluminum control arm Use new nuts.
100 Nm
Control arm to consolet Use a new bolt.
t Tighten in curb weight position.
70 Nm + 180° turn

and I've got these sitting in my garage waiting to be installed.






Component Tightening Specification


#2: Mounting bracket to body - Use new bolts.
70 Nm + 90° turn

#7: Control arm to consolet Use a new bolt. Tighten in curb weight position.
70 Nm + 180° turn

#8 (at end of LCA): Ball joint to steel control arm - Use new nuts.
60 Nm

#8 (at end of LCA): Ball joint to sheet steel or aluminum control armt - Use new nuts.
100 Nm

#9: Mounting bracket to consolet - Use new bolts.
50 Nm + 90° turn
 

FastersBetter

Ready to race!
Location
Toronto
Yup I know how you feel, my mod plans kept changing & getting more expensive to what they are today.:biggrin: I should hopefully have my super pro lca's on next week?, Not going with there ball joints, Just going to replace the stockers same time as the control arms. I'll do the TT mounts & passat spindles when I do the sachs coilovers.
If resurrecting an old thread is bad, I'm really sorry. I've been researching this topic for the past couple weeks and, although HYDE16 has a great review of the SuperPro control arm kit, I'm looking for MKV specific experience. I'm on the trigger to buy these today but wanted to know:

Should I go with the adjustable ball joint or the stocker? Does anyone have extensive track experience with either or both? JT64- did you go with stock ball joints?
 

DerekH

Ready to race!
Location
Ontario
I don't have extensive track experience with them but i am perfectly happy with my stock ball joints useing the upgraded LCAs.
 

DerekH

Ready to race!
Location
Ontario
My full list of suspension work is H&R RSS coils, H&R front and rear sway bars(26/22), ground control camber plates, white line front and rear end links, super pro ALK and super pro LCAs. I have at no point in time thought that the stock ball joints are letting me down, that being said i haven't been on both sides of the fence so i may be incorrect about that. Should the stock ball joints ever crap out on me i will more than likely upgrade. Considering how tight the suspension is now i would imagine they will take a little more of a beating. I have about 10k km on this setup now on toronto roads and everything seems fine though so we shal see.
 

zrickety

The Fixer
Location
Unknown
Car(s)
VW GTI
Mk6 suspension is essentially the same thing. I wouldn't bother with adjustable ball joints unless it is a track only car.
 

FastersBetter

Ready to race!
Location
Toronto
Thanks for the feedback guys that's very helpful.. So I'm going to stick with stock ball joints but should I take the opportunity to buy new stock ball joints now that my car is at 70,000 KMs or just leave the old ones on? I guess, what's another $100 for new ones, right?
 

zrickety

The Fixer
Location
Unknown
Car(s)
VW GTI
It might be easier but don't get the cheapest ball joints you find. FYI, used passat parts are a bargain and a set of poly bushings is about $70.
 

phillip1978

Ready to race!
Location
VIC AUSTRALIA
Well after a couple of years using superpro supaloy lca i have had to ditch them. For a long period of time i have had a knocking and creaking noise occurring when turning, accelerating and decelerating. The rear bushings were replaced under warranty. However that did not fix the issue. All sub frame bolts changed and torqued to specs. I then started to suspect the actual arms. I decided to get them removed and replaced with the originals. Lucky i kept them. And low and behold the creaking issue disappeared. Now apart from the creaks and noises i was happy how the vehicle handled
But i could not live with the issue anymore. From research i do not think many people have had this problem with superpro alloy lca and i still recommend them. But if you experience this issue after install my advice is do not rule out the arms themselves rather than chasing other potential suspension issues.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
 

phillip1978

Ready to race!
Location
VIC AUSTRALIA
The bushes all appeared to be fine visually. No tears no abnormality in shape, greased well. More than likely it was just bushes again but i did not want to go through a third attempt. Had them replaced already and just had enough of it.

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