Stage 1 question

[Timpanogos Slim]

lolz

i have seen a lot of intake designs and most of them seem to be designed to look cool and make fun noises.

nuts to that. the volant design is the only one i have seen that is strictly form-follows-function.

 

[bill6211789]

Oh, and i will propose this reason for staying at stage 1:

Too cheap to upgrade the HPFP and IC. Depending on how you do that, it'll cost from $600 to, well, as much as you want to spend really. Couple grand if you go with a new HPFP with new APR internals and an APR intercooler.

IF I go stage 2, I'll have a Golf R IC purchased used and an Autotech HPFP upgrade, possibly in a low-miles used HPFP.

I was gonna get in on a sweet deal with integrated's new HPFP upgrade but there was a misunderstanding.

Not true, stage 2 requires only a dp, an intercooler will help performance but isn't needed. An upgraded HPFP is needed for stage 2+/stage 2 HPFP

I also ran a bsh truseal for some time with zero issues with rich codes.

Sent from my Galaxy S3

 

[Bgatz]

Yes I recently bought it in march of this year at Langan in wallingford For my tune it is 600 dollars no labor charge. According to what the rep at excelatrate performance said. Also isn't it free once you purchase the tune. So if I own 1 it wouldn't cost anything to upgrade to stage 2. Maybe other than a flash fee.

 

[Red5pade]

Not true, stage 2 requires only a dp, an intercooler will help performance but isn't needed. An upgraded HPFP is needed for stage 2+/stage 2 HPFP

I also ran a bsh truseal for some time with zero issues with rich codes.

Sent from my Galaxy S3

i think you missed where he said he has a tsi :thumbsup:

Yes I recently bought it in march of this year at Langan in wallingford For my tune it is 600 dollars no labor charge. According to what the rep at excelatrate performance said. Also isn't it free once you purchase the tune. So if I own 1 it wouldn't cost anything to upgrade to stage 2. Maybe other than a flash fee.

depends on the tune, but usually, yes. some shops might charge a flat charge rate, which will be about $70 and some might do a half hour charge, which is about $35... depending on the shop. some might even do it fro free if you have them do something else. basically, there is NO reason not to go s2. trust me, you dont feel any difference besides the turbo spools a little better. you will at least be able to take more advantage of that dp. youre just wasting time going to only s1.

my friend just bought a cai for his gti and he wants a tbe next, and then only go s1 :mad0259:. needless to say, we are no longer friends. stupid statements like that annoy me just a little. go s2 and quit being a little bitch, op

 

[K03]

I went the same route as you for a time, i had a catless ebay pipe on a stage1+ tune. Save yourself the hassle and just get it over with, go stage 2 right away. Also, sand down the pipe a bit and hit it with 3-4 coats of rust proofing. It is stainless steel, but it ... idk it has this weird buildup all over it and its only seen 7k miles w/out any winters. As soon as this winters up ill be fabricating a cat back and painting my DP myself.

 

[bill6211789]

i think you missed where he said he has a tsi :thumbsup:

Nope was just referring to his (T Slim) incorrect post about his car. :beer: i know the OP has a TSI



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[Timpanogos Slim]

Nope was just referring to his (T Slim) incorrect post about his car. :beer: i know the OP has a TSI



Sent from my Galaxy S3

Right, I missed that.

So i agree. Get a Golf R IC and go stage 2 already.

 

[bill6211789]

Right, I missed that.

So i agree. Get a Golf R IC and go stage 2 already.

Go stage 2 then worry about an IC as its NOT needed for stage 2

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[Red5pade]

Right, I missed that.

So i agree. Get a Golf R IC and go stage 2 already.

im running s2+ and still on the stock ic. 2 reasons why, i dont need to upgrade, and i dont feel like spending money

 

[K03]

Having an intercooler is really nice, the power is very noticeable over a stockie. From the good ol' but dyno it felt like the jump from s1-2.

 

[Red5pade]

Having an intercooler is really nice, the power is very noticeable over a stockie. From the good ol' but dyno it felt like the jump from s1-2.

On hot days, I'd agree but on cooler days, it's barely noticeable. So I don't care until I swap turbos

 

[K03]

Not in my opinion. On hot days my car still heat soaks and feels like crap, granted its a lot better than stock. But it doesnt compare to the jump on cold days, like ~65, it hauls ass.

 

[Bgatz]

To get a clear answer I emailed APR and the shop that tunes to get a clear answer. Here are their responses. They solved my question.

We can get you a stage 2 non test pipe file. Or Stage 1 test pipe file. That is up to you. You will get 4out of 5 readiness codes, please check with your state emission board on how many readiness codes you need. -apr

From tuner.

If you have a downpipe then you would want a Stage 2 file. If we flash the test pipes file it will turn off the readiness on two different monitors. We can load a file that turns the readiness on in Stock mode but you will still need a O2 spacer to prevent the CEL for cat efficiency from popping up. So whatever file you'd like to do is fine. It just depends on what you want and how you want to work out the emissions aspect.

So I can get a stage 1 with a testpipe file

 

[bill6211789]

So I can get a stage 1 with a testpipe file

But there is no point to getting a stage 1 testpipe file if you have a dp. Stage 2 will only optimize power for the added downpipe and get rid of the CEL if you wanted the test pipe file.

For a stage 2 tune the ONLY needed hardware is a DP, why add the needed hardware and not get the proper tune for said hardware? Getting the tune to tune out the CEL but not optimize the performance makes no sense.


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[Timpanogos Slim]

You APR guys are confusing as hell.

Glad I went GIAC.