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Stage 1 question

Subie2013

Humble yourself
Location
SLC, Ut
To get a clear answer I emailed APR and the shop that tunes to get a clear answer. Here are their responses. They solved my question.

We can get you a stage 2 non test pipe file. Or Stage 1 test pipe file. That is up to you. You will get 4out of 5 readiness codes, please check with your state emission board on how many readiness codes you need. -apr

From tuner.

If you have a downpipe then you would want a Stage 2 file. If we flash the test pipes file it will turn off the readiness on two different monitors. We can load a file that turns the readiness on in Stock mode but you will still need a O2 spacer to prevent the CEL for cat efficiency from popping up. So whatever file you'd like to do is fine. It just depends on what you want and how you want to work out the emissions aspect.

So I can get a stage 1 with a testpipe file
Why are you making this difficult? You have a DP? Just go stage 2? What the hells the point of have a stage 1 map, when you have everything you need for stage 2 and it cost the exact same amount? Gains are better, the car will be designed to run with the DP, and you can have the CEL removed.


Just go S2 and save everyone from this silly ass topic.
 

brian9892

Ramblin' Wreck
Location
Atlanta
^ Thank you. This is so obvious. Everyone is telling OP to just go stage 2 and he doesn't listen. OP, it's your money, do what you want, but just going stage 1 is absolutely pointless.
 

Tutti57

Ready to race!
Location
Rochester,NY
I agree. Stage 2 it for the same price. What is your reasoning not to so that we can understand where you are coming from here.
 

Bgatz

Ready to race!
Location
ct
I want to gradually get to stage 2. Either way it will cost the same amount to go stage 1 or 2. Both 600. Some say you need to upgrade some parts such as a Dv And a pcv. I understand stage 2 is nice but I wanted to give stage 1 a try. Im not going to stay there forever. Maybe be on it for a week. But in the end I just wanted to know my original question post and I have solved it. Thanks for all the help. And yes I will go stage 2 don't worry
 
Location
Pikeville, KY
Car(s)
Subaru
I want to gradually get to stage 2. Either way it will cost the same amount to go stage 1 or 2. Both 600. Some say you need to upgrade some parts such as a Dv And a pcv. I understand stage 2 is nice but I wanted to give stage 1 a try. Im not going to stay there forever. Maybe be on it for a week. But in the end I just wanted to know my original question post and I have solved it. Thanks for all the help. And yes I will go stage 2 don't worry

No one is worried. We just think you're dumb for not doing it now is all
 

MDBluesfan

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Manchester, MD
Car(s)
2009 CW GTI
If you're putting the DP on now, you're never going to really be "stage 1" at all. You'll be...I don't even know what to call it.

If you really want to do it gradually, keep everything stock except the ECU, and then do the DP and the stage 2 at the same time. TSI doesn't have to worry about DV/pcv/HPFP.

If you never plan to go stage 2, then I guess you're going about this the "right" way. But if you plan to go stage 2, especially after only a week, what you're essentially saying is "Guys, I'd like to slap some new hardware on my car and then tune it inefficiently, and then a week later I'd like to waste another hour doing it right. Can I do that?"

Sure, you can...but I'm not sure you're getting much out of doing it that way.
 
Location
Pikeville, KY
Car(s)
Subaru
If you're putting the DP on now, you're never going to really be "stage 1" at all. You'll be...I don't even know what to call it.

If you really want to do it gradually, keep everything stock except the ECU, and then do the DP and the stage 2 at the same time. TSI doesn't have to worry about DV/pcv/HPFP.

If you never plan to go stage 2, then I guess you're going about this the "right" way. But if you plan to go stage 2, especially after only a week, what you're essentially saying is "Guys, I'd like to slap some new hardware on my car and then tune it inefficiently, and then a week later I'd like to waste another hour doing it right. Can I do that?"

Sure, you can...but I'm not sure you're getting much out of doing it that way.

Later tsi's don't have to worry about the dv but newer ones do. But a rev g is fine until it rips. Then go d. Everyone wants the d
 

Subie2013

Humble yourself
Location
SLC, Ut
This thread is killing me. OP, you want to go S1, but you already have a DP. Which in the end you are defeating the purpose. Take off the DP, then ok I guess. The difference between S1, and S2 isn't crazy different. So, you might as well just go S2, save the extra pennies it's gonna cost to take your car in to go S2 cause the shop will probably charge you there 60$ an hour to change this simple thing you can just get done while you go S2. Whatever, pointless convo, and obviously we aren't knocking any sense into you. Do what you want. But it's a waste of time. Personal opinion.
 
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