Major Issues TSI 2.0 Please Help

[Pspminez]

Ok so here is the long story...

I had a coolant leak and a misfire. so i replaced the leaking coolant flange https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/cylinder-head-cooling-flange/06j121132e/

and replaced the coil packs and plugs...car wouldnt start...one of the plugs was incorrectly pre gapped....fixed gap had a mean tick....tick went away now its missing again i get multiple misfire codes that usually start with a p2015 and a cylinder 2 misfire and yesterday my exhaust feel out at the muffler by it self and looking into the pipe as far as i could see was glowing red hot and my coolant was steaming...what could be the problems

had these codes this morning with the following freeze data (p2015 & cylinder 2 misfire) seems the p2015 code is always there as soon as i clear

DTCFRZF 90302
FUELSYS1 OL-DRIVE
FUELSYS2 N/A
LOAD_PCT(%) 41.6
ETC(F) 124
SHRTFT1(%) 17.2
LONGFT1(%) 0.0
RPM(/MIN) 4407
VSS(MPH) 55
SPARKADV(DEGREE) 37
IAT(F) 32
MAF(1B/MIN) 6.885
TP(%) 27.8
AIR_STAT OFF
RUNTM(SEC) 562
FRP(PSI) 2010.2
EVAP_PCT(%) 20.4
BARO(inHg) 29.5
VPWR(V) 14.112
LOAD_ABS(%) 69.8
EQ_RAT 0.999
TP_R(%) 18.0
AAT(F) 32
TP_B(%) 28.2
APP_D(%) 41.6
APP_E(%) 41.6
TAC_PCT(%) 23.5

any help would be appreciated motor is TSI 2.0 all stock

 

[GTI's]

How many miles on this car? Under 120k? There is a warranty extension for the intake flapper which is your P2015 dtc.

 

[golfballer78]

How many miles on this car? Under 120k? There is a warranty extension for the intake flapper which is your P2015 dtc.

So the flap being stuck shut causes it to overheat that much? I would have thought a restricted exhaust somehow, or maybe both.

 

[Pspminez]

So the flap being stuck shut causes it to overheat that much? I would have thought a restricted exhaust somehow, or maybe both.

its not overheating at the gauge but appears to be hotter then normal but the temp gauge looks normal. Might have to do with my exhaust coming off tho

 

[golfballer78]

its not overheating at the gauge but appears to be hotter then normal but the temp gauge looks normal. Might have to do with my exhaust coming off tho

Fell out? Weird shit. Like the welds gave? Or the clamp sleeve was loose? I had an issue on fsi where the cat next to the turbo literally shot outta the flange during a drive. Weak welds perhaps, muffler shop back welded it back onto the flange pretty cheap. Pretty f’ing loud with open hot side turbo dump for 2 days lol.

 

[BudgetPhoenix]

The p2015 is a failed intake manifold. Take to dealer for free replacement if under 120k but I dont think thats related to the cause of your red hot exhaust issue and steaming coolant.

 

[GTI's]

After you fix the exhaust and manifold clear the codes and then drive and rescan for codes and log your fuel trim, preferably with Vcds. Not completely getting this freeze frame data " SHRTFT1(%) 17.2 LONGFT1(%) 0.0"

Did you clear codes right before you got these new codes?

 

[Fred930]

The p2015 is a failed intake manifold. Take to dealer for free replacement if under 120k but I dont think thats related to the cause of your red hot exhaust issue and steaming coolant.

I also have a 2009 GTI (TSI). It's on its 3rd intake manifold - now at 130K miles. Last one failed right at the 120K mile mark, so it will be my last free one. VW has now added a breather kit, installed with new manifolds, which is supposed to help extend their life in some way. We'll see.

Perhaps what people are indirectly saying here - you are driving a VW GTI. It's a fun car with a great deal of "soul". But if it's reliability your after - then sell it and buy a Honda. Until then, when you are able to identify a specific problem (like this manifold) - fix it and then see what issues remain. Fault codes can occur due to other seemingly unrelated problems, so address the obvious ones, then tackle the next one in line.

Oh, when the manifold is removed - make sure you get a report on the intake valve condition. If the car hasn't been previously serviced, the intake valves may well be badly carboned and require cleaning. Negotiate a cost with the dealer - a good portion of the time for that job is already included in the warranty removal / install of the manifold. So you should only have to pay for the extra labor time to clean the valves - maybe an hour, or so.

And as previously mentioned, nothing related to the manifold will have anything to do with your overheating - it's just a free repair if you are under 120K miles.

 

[golfballer78]

I also have a 2009 GTI (TSI). It's on its 3rd intake manifold - now at 130K miles. Last one failed right at the 120K mile mark, so it will be my last free one. VW has now added a breather kit, installed with new manifolds, which is supposed to help extend their life in some way. We'll see.

Perhaps what people are indirectly saying here - you are driving a VW GTI. It's a fun car with a great deal of "soul". But if it's reliability your after - then sell it and buy a Honda. Until then, when you are able to identify a specific problem (like this manifold) - fix it and then see what issues remain. Fault codes can occur due to other seemingly unrelated problems, so address the obvious ones, then tackle the next one in line.

Oh, when the manifold is removed - make sure you get a report on the intake valve condition. If the car hasn't been previously serviced, the intake valves may well be badly carboned and require cleaning. Negotiate a cost with the dealer - a good portion of the time for that job is already included in the warranty removal / install of the manifold. So you should only have to pay for the extra labor time to clean the valves - maybe an hour, or so.

And as previously mentioned, nothing related to the manifold will have anything to do with your overheating - it's just a free repair if you are under 120K miles.

.

No dude, I worked at Honda for 8yrs, owned Mitsubishi evo8 personal for a few (until piston rings f’ed) plenty of issues there too. As far as these I had most issue with 4cyl turbo like many on here. Glad to be out of it into vr6 R32 again. I maintain the thing myself as well. Not as many serious issues with now 230k+ on the clock.

 

[BudgetPhoenix]

I also have a 2009 GTI (TSI). It's on its 3rd intake manifold - now at 130K miles. Last one failed right at the 120K mile mark, so it will be my last free one. VW has now added a breather kit, installed with new manifolds, which is supposed to help extend their life in some way. We'll see.

Perhaps what people are indirectly saying here - you are driving a VW GTI. It's a fun car with a great deal of "soul". But if it's reliability your after - then sell it and buy a Honda. Until then, when you are able to identify a specific problem (like this manifold) - fix it and then see what issues remain. Fault codes can occur due to other seemingly unrelated problems, so address the obvious ones, then tackle the next one in line.

Oh, when the manifold is removed - make sure you get a report on the intake valve condition. If the car hasn't been previously serviced, the intake valves may well be badly carboned and require cleaning. Negotiate a cost with the dealer - a good portion of the time for that job is already included in the warranty removal / install of the manifold. So you should only have to pay for the extra labor time to clean the valves - maybe an hour, or so.

And as previously mentioned, nothing related to the manifold will have anything to do with your overheating - it's just a free repair if you are under 120K miles.

Yep I got the new manifold too. Along with the updated breather and solenoid, it has a beefed up flapper arm, new sensor, and beefier flap stops inside.

 

[Fred930]

.

No dude, I worked at Honda for 8yrs, owned Mitsubishi evo8 personal for a few (until piston rings f’ed) plenty of issues there too. As far as these I had most issue with 4cyl turbo like many on here. Glad to be out of it into vr6 R32 again. I maintain the thing myself as well. Not as many serious issues with now 230k+ on the clock.

Hum - I hope my next 130K miles are better than the first. Let's see, in the last 12 months or so I've replaced: Intake Manifold ; Intake Camshaft & Lifters ; PVC ; several of those cheap plastic breather hoses ; all Timing Chains, Rails, & Tensioners ; Injectors ; Rear Main Seal ; Clutch & PP ; and I still have to get around to replacing a broken rear spring. Before that, had a nasty issue with the ABS pump - which is kind of a bugger to replace and reprogram.

Family's had 4 Honda's over the years (probably totaling 750K miles) with little more than routine stuff and one transmission.

Oh - and to VW's credit - in addition to the 3 intake manifolds on my GTI, they have (no charge) replace both front fenders, rear hatch, and repainted both rocker panels.

I do love the car, but it's a pain in the a$$ to keep running. That said, I completely believe you that Honda's have plenty of issues too!

 

[golfballer78]

Hum - I hope my next 130K miles are better than the first. Let's see, in the last 12 months or so I've replaced: Intake Manifold ; Intake Camshaft & Lifters ; PVC ; several of those cheap plastic breather hoses ; all Timing Chains, Rails, & Tensioners ; Injectors ; Rear Main Seal ; Clutch & PP ; and I still have to get around to replacing a broken rear spring. Before that, had a nasty issue with the ABS pump - which is kind of a bugger to replace and reprogram.

Family's had 4 Honda's over the years (probably totaling 750K miles) with little more than routine stuff and one transmission.

Oh - and to VW's credit - in addition to the 3 intake manifolds on my GTI, they have (no charge) replace both front fenders, rear hatch, and repainted both rocker panels.

I do love the car, but it's a pain in the a$$ to keep running. That said, I completely believe you that Honda's have plenty of issues too!

Yeah, most Japan trans not great. Hell the FB gen civic SI’s were coming back in barely driven needing new rings already. They started spec’ing 0w20 oil in k24 that kids rev to 7k all the time. Some Ap1 s2000’s were bending valves from 9k tach all the time. To me allot of cars are just headaches either sooner or later. Sometimes their best shit is only in a few models. Or they quit making good shit cause it costs them too much. I 2nd owned the 08’ R with 140k well maintained. Doing your own labor saves tons as well.
The weak stuff you mentioned I replaced in stages to prevent shit breaking again like ditching plastic coolant housings for cast aluminum with vitton o rings.and the flexi plastic pcv breather I changed to hard oil rated clamped rubber hose instead. And these manufacturers including Japanese & American going to plastic intakes since earlier 2000’s was the biggest cost cutting joke I’ve seen. And evidence the warp & flaps break further backs that up.