gyruss
New member
Hey GTiMKVI, How'd things up with your suspected bad ECU and the dealership situation? Appreciate any additional details you can share.
I've got a 2011 PZEV with 85k miles that i've had it's whole life. I had APR stage 1 done at least 5 years ago and have ran perfectly until just recently. I have the dreaded running cooling fans situation. At first I found the smaller passenger side fan wasn't running. It would spin freely by hand. I replaced the fan with a brand new Behr unit. Now both fans operate, which is good, but both fans now run for about 5 to 7 minutes at full speed after the engine is shutdown. Before I toss more money at the problem by buying the larger main fan (which also houses the fan controller) I'm thinking of contacting APR to see about shipping my ECU to them for diagnosis and reflash. My last option will be taking the car to the dealer.
FWIW, all the threads that mention the ECU may have a short within the ECU's circuitry or humidity within the ECU's case I don't think apply to me. I find the weather aspect not applicable to where I live in the hot southwest desert. And if the ECU does have a faulty circuit or board after 5 years I don't think it's related to the ECU case being improperly sealed after all this time. Just my two cents and nothing directed towards you. Merely some info for the next forum reader that ends up here just as I did.
To be continued...
I've got a 2011 PZEV with 85k miles that i've had it's whole life. I had APR stage 1 done at least 5 years ago and have ran perfectly until just recently. I have the dreaded running cooling fans situation. At first I found the smaller passenger side fan wasn't running. It would spin freely by hand. I replaced the fan with a brand new Behr unit. Now both fans operate, which is good, but both fans now run for about 5 to 7 minutes at full speed after the engine is shutdown. Before I toss more money at the problem by buying the larger main fan (which also houses the fan controller) I'm thinking of contacting APR to see about shipping my ECU to them for diagnosis and reflash. My last option will be taking the car to the dealer.
FWIW, all the threads that mention the ECU may have a short within the ECU's circuitry or humidity within the ECU's case I don't think apply to me. I find the weather aspect not applicable to where I live in the hot southwest desert. And if the ECU does have a faulty circuit or board after 5 years I don't think it's related to the ECU case being improperly sealed after all this time. Just my two cents and nothing directed towards you. Merely some info for the next forum reader that ends up here just as I did.
To be continued...
Last edited: