DIY: Front Wheel bearing / hub install

[piston]

If you've removed the brake caliper, pushed in the axle & removed the 4 triple square bolts and it's not coming off, this means it's binded/rusted.
I would say try pounding on it with a rubber mallet and put more PB Blaster on there.

 

[Loco_Rabbit]

Thanks a lot piston this really helped me a lot while doing mines last weekend.. I had to replace the driver side..I really had to pound mines for a couple of hrs and add a lot of wd-40 for it to finally come off..everything else was easy...I also removed the three bottom nuts from the ball joint assembly and you could just move the axle out of the way.

 

[Stanliterman24]

My 4 12t bolts are SO TIGHT! I'm afraid I will strip them. I'm using a 12mm bit style rather than a socket style, I've used breaker bars, pipes on breaker bars. WTF why are they so tight? it pisses me off how EVERYTIME I work on this car if it involves a triple square i get F-ed in the A. don't ask how many HPFP banjo bolts I've gone through. Any pointers?

 

[ClassicRbt]

wack the triple square socket a mallet a few times. should loosen up rust.

if you still think it will strip, take it to a local euro shop. Much easier having the car on a lift doing jobs like this. much better leverage, etc.

 

[aradise]

Help !!!!

Ok so I'm doin the same bearing an dint have this 12mm triple square socket and everywhere I call don't know what I'm talking about where can I get one of these ?? Plz help me !!

 

[Stanliterman24]

Ok so I'm doin the same bearing an dint have this 12mm triple square socket and everywhere I call don't know what I'm talking about where can I get one of these ?? Plz help me !!

If your calling local stores its like playing the lottery. Order one off ECS they have the bit and socket style. I ordered both and prefer the socket.

 

[Stanliterman24]

So after trying a little harder I still couldn't get my triple square bolts undone. I reassembled everything, the original old axel bolt, and brought it to the dealer. They charged $150.00, which I am fine with BUT they didn't put my new axel bolt in, they reused the original one. I was under the impression that it is a stretch bolt. How would I go about bringing this up to them?

 

[Red-2009-GTI]

This is a great DIY. It replaced my left front wheel bearing assy following this process, and FINALLY the obnoxious howl is gone!

 

[Natalie]

Good DIY I was a little confused at times with the torque suggested for some parts in this but I just cross referenced with the Bentley manual to get the exact specs.

However in my experience this afternoon it took me about 3 hours from start to finish. Now the car has 101k miles on it (6 MN winters of salt and sand), original rotors and bearings. I would doubt it takes that long for many people, probably more like 1.5hrs if you don't run into the problems I did.

The first issue I had was while I was taking the first triple square off. The bolt got partly stripped on one side because I couldnt get the 12mm socket properly seated in the bolt. I was also slowed down because the axle wouldn't come out all the way, leaving little room for gaining access to the triple squares.

Before I got any of these removed my rotor still wouldn't move off the hub (yes the small torx-30 screw was out). I thought it was just rusted on and needed a good hit with the hammer a few times. So I started to see progress with the hammer. Needless to say as soon as it came off, it also took off part of the original housing bearing with it so I could see the actual bearings. The rotor had seized to the outer part of the bearing.

I was able to separate the rotor from the housing by banging it out with a 36mm socket and some wood blocks.

Now back to the triple squares. I was able to get them started after I took out the torch (benzomatic yellow can). I heated up the housing along the triple square bolts and then they slowly started to turn.

Installing the new bearing wasn't too hard. The only issue I ran into that out of the 4 new 12mm triple square bolts, only one fit the triple square socket. I got the ECS complete wheel bearing housing kit. I think it was the zinc coating on the bolts. I simply pounded the socket into the bolts until they seated well. Easy fix but the bolts shouldn't be that cheap (seemed to be made in China based on the box they came in). Still a little disappointed but you get what you pay for. This 2 bearing complete kit was half of what the genuine VW/Audi would have been.

The only issue I ran into there was just trying to move the axle around to get the 4 triple square bolts in. Space was tight.

I would recommend you have a friend help you, especially if you don't have much experience or you run into issues like I did.

When looking at the bearing I saw dirt and other small debris in and around the bearings. Here are some images:

 

[g60_corrado_91]

My buddy finally had a chance to change out my wheel bearing. 118500 miles on it, 3 years of autox and switching out wheels (not using an impact most of the time), and jumping a curb back in 2009 from black ice/having no control. Surprised it lasted this long.

Yes, the bearing split into two when he was trying to hammer it off. It was terrible. So quiet and smooth now and not all over the road anymore. Getting the 4 triple square bolts off wasn't too bad. PB blast soaking in does wonders. Getting the second piece of the hub off from the knuckle was pretty fun. He had it all done within an hour.

 

[Natalie]

Yes, the bearing split into two when he was trying to hammer it off. It was terrible. So quiet and smooth now and not all over the road anymore. Getting the 4 triple square bolts off wasn't too bad. PB blast soaking in does wonders. Getting the second piece of the hub off from the knuckle was pretty fun. He had it all done within an hour.

Looks like it came apart just like mine. I just threaded the old triple square bolts into the housing then used a combination of hammering on those bolts and prying with large screw drivers to remove it.

Noise from mine is also all gone.

 

[Natalie]

After 34k miles on the ECS front bearing kit (Vaico bearings) they were making a grinding sound and needed to be replaced. Unfortunately it was out of warranty. Ended up going with *** bearings which seem to be OEM. Hopefully these last well past 235k miles.

I would strongly recommend that anyone doing this take off the 3 bolts for the ball joint. See below video for what i'm referring to. Makes getting the axle out a breeze. No need for any tools to drive the axle out with.

As others have said this kit from *** came with the updated 12-point axle bolt (70nm + 90 deg) and 4 non-triple square bolts. They were a star pattern. Had to go to Napa to get the correct socket.

 

[maypo59]

After 34k miles on the ECS front bearing kit (Vaico bearings) they were making a grinding sound and needed to be replaced. Unfortunately it was out of warranty. Ended up going with *** bearings which seem to be OEM. Hopefully these last well past 235k miles.

I would strongly recommend that anyone doing this take off the 3 bolts for the ball joint. See below video for what i'm referring to. Makes getting the axle out a breeze. No need for any tools to drive the axle out with.

As others have said this kit from *** came with the updated 12-point axle bolt (70nm + 90 deg) and 4 non-triple square bolts. They were a star pattern. Had to go to Napa to get the correct socket.

Know this is an old thread, but very helpful.. Question, did you need a front end alignment after pulling the ball joint bolts?

 

[g60_corrado_91]

I could be wrong, but you shouldn't need an alignment when removing the balljoints. Anything to do with tie rods, that's a different story.

 

[Gordo]

I know I'm pulling this from the grave, but it seems like this is the most referenced DIY out there on front bearing replacements, so I thought I would clarify a few things regarding torque specifications. Axle bolt torque specifications are not dependent on whether you have a 12 point bolt or 6 point bolt, but rather, whether the underside of the bolt head is ribbed or not. If it is ribbed, it should be torqued to 70 Nm + 90, if non-ribbed, it should be torqued to 200 Nm + 180.

Just FYI, in case anyone out there is still doing their own wheel bearings!