CPT.SLO
Passed Driver's Ed
- Location
- Connecticut
When cleaning up our engine bays, the one thing everyone wants to get rid of is that pesky coolant bubble. At first I switched out the MKV bubble with a MKIV bubble, which doesn't have clips for the wiring. After using that for a year, I finally decided to get rid of the bubble altogether. I did some research online, but did not come across much other than eurocars' Shaved bay resource thread. That thread is definitely worth the read, and also where I discovered the remote thermostat housing. I'm trying to not make this a diy, but more of a walk through of how I did this, since you might decide to put the housing elsewhere. As for the reliability of this mod, I daily drive my car and haven't run into a problem yet, plus I drive the piss out of my car.
Tools
10mm wrench
Knife
Flat head screwdriver
AN wrenches (or a taped up adjustable crescent wrench)
T25 torx screwdriver for coolant bubble
Channel locks for OEM hose clamps
Parts
6 to 7 feet of 1/4" fuel line
1 foot of 3/8" fuel line
1 three way 1/4" fitting with barbs
5/16" hose splice
small hose clamps
Bracket
2 bolts
Moroso Remote thermostat housing
Filler neck which goes on top of housing
Moroso radiator cap
2x-8an to -12an O-ring fitting
-8an female to male 90 degree fitting
2x-8an female to 3/8" barb
Step 1
Start by removing the coolant bubble itself, if you tilt it right, there shouldn't be any dropping of coolant at this part. You can use Channel Locks to get the hose clamps off. There should be 2x T25 screws holding it to the body. Also unplug the sensor. At this time you can also jump the wires for the sensor, I would recommend a butt connector, and no transistor is needed.
Step 2
Next step will be removing the lines you do not need anymore. These include the line going up from the upper radiator hose past the hpfp, the metal line on top of the heat shield, and the small line going to the heater core. The metal line needs to have 2x 18mm bolts (which are part of the exhaust manifold), 2x M8 triple square bolts, and one M5 triple square bolt, plus the hose clamps.
Step 3
Now you can start putting the remote fill together. Make sure you use the provided gasket between the filler neck and remote housing. I forgot the bolt size, but you need two to connect them, and make sure they aren't too long or they will interfere with the AN fittings. Then you can put the cap on. Next put the -12an to -8an reducers on either side. On the right side you can then attach the -8an to 3/8" barb. The right side can then use the -8an to -8an 90 degree fitting, before adding the other 90 degree fitting. Make sure everything is tight.
This is how the finished product should look.
Step 4
You'll need to make a bracket to attach the housing to the engine. I used a horn bracket that I didn't need any more. I found a screw the holds on the coolant return line from the turbo,
Step 5
The line that attached to the bottom of the coolant bubble that goes to the thermostat can now be cut. the line attaches to the right 3/8" barb on the housing. Measure it a few times before cutting. Once you have it all cut out, you can attach the line and hose clamp it.
Step 6
Next you can attach a 1/4" line to the heater core lines and hose clamp it. You can tuck the other end of the line under the vacuum pump.
Step 7
Now you need the T-fitting. Attach one end of the heater hose line to the fitting. You'll need a little piece of line to connect the upper radiator hose and the T-fitting. The last barb on the fitting is where the line that goes to the other 3/8" barb. I took that line and tucked it underneath the intake manifold.
Step 8
With the line that goes under the intake manifold, connect it to the 5/16" line splice. The other side of the splice takes the 3/8" line, which is the connected to the the barb on the housing.
Step 9
Add some coolant, start the car, and check for leaks.
That's pretty much it, I know there are easier ways out there, but this is how I did mine.
Tools
10mm wrench
Knife
Flat head screwdriver
AN wrenches (or a taped up adjustable crescent wrench)
T25 torx screwdriver for coolant bubble
Channel locks for OEM hose clamps
Parts
6 to 7 feet of 1/4" fuel line
1 foot of 3/8" fuel line
1 three way 1/4" fitting with barbs
5/16" hose splice
small hose clamps
Bracket
2 bolts
Moroso Remote thermostat housing
Filler neck which goes on top of housing
Moroso radiator cap
2x-8an to -12an O-ring fitting
-8an female to male 90 degree fitting
2x-8an female to 3/8" barb
Step 1
Start by removing the coolant bubble itself, if you tilt it right, there shouldn't be any dropping of coolant at this part. You can use Channel Locks to get the hose clamps off. There should be 2x T25 screws holding it to the body. Also unplug the sensor. At this time you can also jump the wires for the sensor, I would recommend a butt connector, and no transistor is needed.
Step 2
Next step will be removing the lines you do not need anymore. These include the line going up from the upper radiator hose past the hpfp, the metal line on top of the heat shield, and the small line going to the heater core. The metal line needs to have 2x 18mm bolts (which are part of the exhaust manifold), 2x M8 triple square bolts, and one M5 triple square bolt, plus the hose clamps.
Step 3
Now you can start putting the remote fill together. Make sure you use the provided gasket between the filler neck and remote housing. I forgot the bolt size, but you need two to connect them, and make sure they aren't too long or they will interfere with the AN fittings. Then you can put the cap on. Next put the -12an to -8an reducers on either side. On the right side you can then attach the -8an to 3/8" barb. The right side can then use the -8an to -8an 90 degree fitting, before adding the other 90 degree fitting. Make sure everything is tight.
This is how the finished product should look.
Step 4
You'll need to make a bracket to attach the housing to the engine. I used a horn bracket that I didn't need any more. I found a screw the holds on the coolant return line from the turbo,
Step 5
The line that attached to the bottom of the coolant bubble that goes to the thermostat can now be cut. the line attaches to the right 3/8" barb on the housing. Measure it a few times before cutting. Once you have it all cut out, you can attach the line and hose clamp it.
Step 6
Next you can attach a 1/4" line to the heater core lines and hose clamp it. You can tuck the other end of the line under the vacuum pump.
Step 7
Now you need the T-fitting. Attach one end of the heater hose line to the fitting. You'll need a little piece of line to connect the upper radiator hose and the T-fitting. The last barb on the fitting is where the line that goes to the other 3/8" barb. I took that line and tucked it underneath the intake manifold.
Step 8
With the line that goes under the intake manifold, connect it to the 5/16" line splice. The other side of the splice takes the 3/8" line, which is the connected to the the barb on the housing.
Step 9
Add some coolant, start the car, and check for leaks.
That's pretty much it, I know there are easier ways out there, but this is how I did mine.
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