V
Ac line punctured
- Thread starter clucas
- Start date
HOP929
VEE DUBSTEP'N
- Location
- Minneeesooooda
- Car(s)
- 07 GTI FSI
yes. there is a possibility that you will get moisture in the system and it can cause corrosion. a/c systems hate any sort of moisture in them. plug the holes as soon as possible if the line is off. its not like they will corrode over night but really not a good idea to have it off for any period of time for the risk of contamination. just replace the line as soon as possible and pull a vac on the system to get the moisture out of the system if your not going to charge it soon. (you need to pull a vac before fill anyway). you can drive it with a vacuum on it but if i were you i would get that taken care off soon.
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PRND[S]
The Lame & The Ludicrous
- Location
- Southern California
- Car(s)
- '15 LSG Golf R
You also don't want to get grit or dirt in there, the compressor won't like that.
I'm going to try to get it taken care of Monday if the parts are local, but if I have to order them it may be a couple of days especially with the holiday on Wednesday. I guess I can just cut the damaged line at each end, seal off the openings, and reattach each side so the system isn't open to the elements.
Yeah, I'm going to do that. It would be nice to reinstall while I already have the rest apart, but sometimes shit happens.
nkresho
suck, squish, bang, blow
- Location
- Pittsburgh
- Car(s)
- 2022 Q3
Just went throught this last week.
I ran over a manhole cover that was a tiny bit too tall. Broke my pendulum mount and the motor torqued forward. Serpentine belt chewed through the high pressure line at the black tubing section.
Huge headache.
Anyway, the oil spewed out and apparently all the refrigerant.
Lessons learned: The compressor will not come on without pressure in the system (we have a pressure switch).
Jiffy lube will vacuum test, evacuate, and refill your refrigerant lines for about $135. In about an hour.
New high pressure a/c line from ebay runs around $125 and isn't all that bad to install. Held on by a t45 at each end. The fitting is an o-ring type which is pressed into place by the t45 bolt. Don't bend the new line too much so you don't crack the aluminum.
And you can drive around withe the hole in there all you want. The compressor will not spin up (sucking anything through or pushing anything out) without pressure in the sealed system. Don't get me wrong. Dirt in the compressor would be a really bad thing. But the system is going to have to be refilled with fresh oil and refrigerant anyway. Just don't wait too long.
I ran over a manhole cover that was a tiny bit too tall. Broke my pendulum mount and the motor torqued forward. Serpentine belt chewed through the high pressure line at the black tubing section.
Huge headache.
Anyway, the oil spewed out and apparently all the refrigerant.
Lessons learned: The compressor will not come on without pressure in the system (we have a pressure switch).
Jiffy lube will vacuum test, evacuate, and refill your refrigerant lines for about $135. In about an hour.
New high pressure a/c line from ebay runs around $125 and isn't all that bad to install. Held on by a t45 at each end. The fitting is an o-ring type which is pressed into place by the t45 bolt. Don't bend the new line too much so you don't crack the aluminum.
And you can drive around withe the hole in there all you want. The compressor will not spin up (sucking anything through or pushing anything out) without pressure in the sealed system. Don't get me wrong. Dirt in the compressor would be a really bad thing. But the system is going to have to be refilled with fresh oil and refrigerant anyway. Just don't wait too long.
Last edited:
HOP929
VEE DUBSTEP'N
- Location
- Minneeesooooda
- Car(s)
- 07 GTI FSI
just the line with tin snips or a cable cutter.. no saws, air grinders, anything that makes metal shavings...
sure you knew that but still going to say it.
sure you knew that but still going to say it.
Mine got chewed there too. I'll have to check the mounts as well. Since I have the lines out I'll make sure it's free from any shavings. Any tips on install?
HOP929
VEE DUBSTEP'N
- Location
- Minneeesooooda
- Car(s)
- 07 GTI FSI
when i did mine the whole front was off. so to the compressor was easy. You have to remove the over flow tank for the coolant and the heat shield by the turbo. which also can be a small challenge. but get new o rings and the line and some pag oil. (general rule of thumb is 1oz of oil per replaced component) but they need to inject the oil when they fill it. if they dont... eh, you'll live. cause i had to do the same. so i guess you dont need the oil they have that when it gets filled. the only hard part is just running the line back to the fire wall. oh, there is a line clamp down buy the inlet on the turbo. that was the hardest thing to get back together.
Just a little thinking and fore thought on how to run the line and remembering how to get the stuff back in and wah-la its done. but like i said my whole front clip was off. so to get it to the compressor you might be better off if the car is on stands so you can go from the underside to hook the line up and remove it. not 100% sure if its easier or not.
Just a little thinking and fore thought on how to run the line and remembering how to get the stuff back in and wah-la its done. but like i said my whole front clip was off. so to get it to the compressor you might be better off if the car is on stands so you can go from the underside to hook the line up and remove it. not 100% sure if its easier or not.
nkresho
suck, squish, bang, blow
- Location
- Pittsburgh
- Car(s)
- 2022 Q3
For the install, you'll want to get the car up on ramps or jackstands for both front corners. You'll need to get back under the firewall, to get to the rearmost part of the tube.
Pretty sure it was a t45 that holds the fittings at both ends. Put a little oil on the orings before you push them in. It will be easier to get them in and it will give you a good seal.
Check the depth of the new fittings too. Mine was non-VW aftermarket and they were a little less deep than the stock ones. I had to put a couple extra washers on the bolts, before putting them on, to allow them to screw in all the way tight. I guess the metal that they screw in to is not that deep. If your fittings look exactly like the stock ones, you'll be good to go.
Make sure the fittings snap all the way in before tightening the bolts. If you are a little off, the little guide rods on the fittings will not go in their holes. Luckily, you're working with aluminum, so it has a good deal of give for twisting and bending it into place. Another issue I had here was that the little guide rods were a little thicker than the stock ones. Stock were actually hollow steel inserts and the aftermarket were solid aluminum rods. Mine didn't want to go in the hole. I took the dremel to them, just a little, and they went right in. If you have to do this, make absolutely sure that you don't get any metal shavings in the line.
Get a good idea of where the old tube was in relation to the low pressure line. It kinda twists around on the way to the back of the car, so you'll want to feed it the right way when you put the new one in. Maybe snap a pic or two before disassembly. You will want to unscrew all the clips holding the low pressure line when you get ready to install. This will make moving the new line into place a little easier.
For the rearmost fitting, you'll want to put a rag or towel on the rear pcv fitting, to protect your left forearm from getting all scratched up.
Make sure the hold down right behind your passenger headlight area is secure, before driving the car. If it's loose there, the line can get tweaked when the motor torques forward and back. It could get pulled back into the serpentine belt and re-punctured.
Ummm. I think that's about all as far as headaches I had with mine. The part number was 1K0820741BC, AKA 1K0820741AF,and I believe a few others. The BC number os the most recent revision and the most readily available IMO.
Good luck with the install. Take your time and you'll be fine.
Pretty sure it was a t45 that holds the fittings at both ends. Put a little oil on the orings before you push them in. It will be easier to get them in and it will give you a good seal.
Check the depth of the new fittings too. Mine was non-VW aftermarket and they were a little less deep than the stock ones. I had to put a couple extra washers on the bolts, before putting them on, to allow them to screw in all the way tight. I guess the metal that they screw in to is not that deep. If your fittings look exactly like the stock ones, you'll be good to go.
Make sure the fittings snap all the way in before tightening the bolts. If you are a little off, the little guide rods on the fittings will not go in their holes. Luckily, you're working with aluminum, so it has a good deal of give for twisting and bending it into place. Another issue I had here was that the little guide rods were a little thicker than the stock ones. Stock were actually hollow steel inserts and the aftermarket were solid aluminum rods. Mine didn't want to go in the hole. I took the dremel to them, just a little, and they went right in. If you have to do this, make absolutely sure that you don't get any metal shavings in the line.
Get a good idea of where the old tube was in relation to the low pressure line. It kinda twists around on the way to the back of the car, so you'll want to feed it the right way when you put the new one in. Maybe snap a pic or two before disassembly. You will want to unscrew all the clips holding the low pressure line when you get ready to install. This will make moving the new line into place a little easier.
For the rearmost fitting, you'll want to put a rag or towel on the rear pcv fitting, to protect your left forearm from getting all scratched up.
Make sure the hold down right behind your passenger headlight area is secure, before driving the car. If it's loose there, the line can get tweaked when the motor torques forward and back. It could get pulled back into the serpentine belt and re-punctured.
Ummm. I think that's about all as far as headaches I had with mine. The part number was 1K0820741BC, AKA 1K0820741AF,and I believe a few others. The BC number os the most recent revision and the most readily available IMO.
Good luck with the install. Take your time and you'll be fine.
Thanks for the tips. I'll probably be doing it either next weekend or the weekend after. I'm going to put the ends of the damaged lines back on tonight and try to scope out a plan for install, and obstacles that may need to be removed.
Did the new lines come with new o-rings?
Did the new lines come with new o-rings?
nkresho
suck, squish, bang, blow
- Location
- Pittsburgh
- Car(s)
- 2022 Q3
Mine came with o rings installed, but didn't include the cap that seals the schrader valve. It was one size bigger than the valve cap from my stock line too. Cost me $1 from an auto parts store.
I know that auto parts stores like pep-boys sell a mixed assortment of orings in a bag for like $3 too, just in case. They sell individual ones too, if you bring them one of your old ones.
I know that auto parts stores like pep-boys sell a mixed assortment of orings in a bag for like $3 too, just in case. They sell individual ones too, if you bring them one of your old ones.
HOP929
VEE DUBSTEP'N
- Location
- Minneeesooooda
- Car(s)
- 07 GTI FSI
you can get o rings from the dealer for like $3. i would just get them from the dealer for that price.
I hit a man hole cover and punctured the line as well. Is it possible since the line was punctured that my fan will not turn off? With the car turned off, key out the ignition and fuses out the fuse block the main fan continues to spin until I unplug the wire for the fan.