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Did you try putting a fresh battery in the key fob? Cheap, quick, easy thing to try.

If the belt isn't moving, that suggests you have a bad starter. But usually when that happens, there's no noise whatsoever. I'm scratching my head over the grinding noise.

Any CELs? Cat damage is the most likely outcome of overfilling oil. The high pitch whining is just your HPFP. Not sure about the grinding sound. I don't see any vibration to indicate combustion is happening at all. Does the left side timing belt move as it's cranking?

Daaaaaaaamn. Anyway. I think most of us have simply accepted that it's a consumable item and have learned to live with frequent changes.

Does it last 3 times as long as the original INA part? Coz it looks like it cost 3 times as much. For a part that only needs to be replaced every 50K or so, I wouldn't bother. And, just to add to what ROH said above, any time you have two wear parts in contact, you should want the cheaper and...

$900 is completely bonkers. I replaced mine myself with a $25 remanufactured part off of Amazon!

I assume whoever did your alignment also inspected your lower control arms and bushings and everything looked fine?

If it won't turn at all, it could be the starter. They tend to die in the 125K-150K range.

Easier still than doing a smoke test would be to check your (front) PCV. That is arguably the most common failure on our cars. I may as well mention it before ROH jumps in and says it. Other points of contention would be the DV and (rarely) the N75 or N80.

If the wastegate arm is the only thing you're interested in, you can reach it from the top. You may need to put a knee up on the lock carrier. You can feel around for it behind the turbo's upper heat shield. It has the benefit of being the only thing that's rod-shaped back there. If, OTOH, you...

Are you sure it isn't a failed thrust bearing and resultant crank walk? Are you able to take apart the bottom end to inspect?

How old is the battery? Voltage isn't the same as amperage. A battery can produce 13.5V and still have bad cells. There are ways to test for amperage, but it would be simplest to just swap the battery with a known good to test.

Lots of things can prevent our cars from starting. No gas. Bad throttle body. Failed low pressure fuel pump. Failed crank position sensor. Snapped camshaft chain. Bent valves. Sounds like it's turning so I guess battery and starter are good. Start with the basics. Compression test it. And, of...

You still haven't done wet/dry compression tests, leakdown test, or looked INSIDE the upstream IC hose.

Could be turbo. Could be rings. Do a wet vs dry compression test. Buy a scope. You can try dropping a tablespoon or so of oil down through the spark plug hole. See how quickly it disappears. Leakdown test, as mentioned, is also good. If it's the turbo, there will likely be oil on the CV axle...

FWIW, my BPY's turbo looks more like the lower turbo in your photos. Even if you can make it fit, it might have a different wastegate duty cycle than the original turbo. Best bet is to locate a metal tag on the turbo that will have both a model number (KK3) and a part number (such as 06F145701D...

I'm not an OG. But some people simply don't want to use facebook for various reasons. And those that do are growing increasingly disenchanted with it. Why make Zuckerberg even more affluent with your content? For me, the biggest reason not to use it is that even if you pour hours and hours into...

Some ticking is normal. That would be the sound of the injectors. Is it something other than that? Rod knock? Try to isolate the location. Test the rods by trying to move the pistons through the spark plug holes. They should not move. Coolant in the catch can says blown head gasket. Oil in the...

Lots of things can contribute to poor gas mileage. Proper tire inflation. Rubbing brake pads. But start with fresh spark plugs. Yes, it can take a while for the coolant to get to 90. That part looks normal. If you're very concerned about it, I guess you could replace the thermostat, but that's a...

The CKP and MAP are in two totally different places in the car. Hard to believe both failed simultaneously. But they're both fairly inexpensive. So you could swap both just to see if it makes a difference. the CKP is somewhat close to the oil filter, but I don't see how oil can drip upwards to...