llibgrebnek
Ready to race!
Anyone have that combination? If so, how do you like it?
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So Unitronic said the trans won’t take the power - there is one answer.
Curious to see others’ input.
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Raises hand.
Currently I'm running the APR Is38 file (91octane, thanks California) on a Shuenk Is38+. Performance is precisely what I was expecting given my research and the gearing of the transmission, that being that 2nd gear is you new best friend. Max torque comes online around ~3200rpm, and while certainly not sluggish below that coming from the Is20 tune I definitely felt that power was unsurprisingly more immediate on the smaller turbo.
Where you really notice it is on the freeway. Simply put Is38 doesn't stop pulling, whereas around ~70mph on the Is20 I could definitely notice it starting to slow down a bit. Transmission has seemingly been happy this whole time, no slippage and shifts as well as ever. Though do keep in mind that I don't even have 5k miles on this setup, so long-term reliability remains somewhat of a mystery.
For what it's worth unitronic is known to be more conservative with their tuning than APR. Though from what I believe, if the 09G was truly and obviously incapable of holding such power APR wouldn't have offered it on the platform either. That's all personal opinion of course.
I’m hoping to hear back (privately) from APR on the subject of 09G durability.
I think (based on my powertrain and trans development experience at various car companies) that holding torque of clutching elements or headsets in the trans is not the issue. Rather it is the “braking” or synchronizing elements during high rpm/high power/high energy shifts where those elements have to rapidly but smoothly engage and suffer the instantaneous energy due to engine power coupled with inertial torque of synchronizing elements.
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I didn't even consider the stock auto shift points, but I see what you mean. It looks unless you're driving in manual and revving high there isn't much difference. I'm still pretty curious though.With the Aisin trans I don’t think an IS38 would be any faster than an IS20. With the stock shift points you’d be shifting below the meat of the IS38’s gains.
Honestly not much of an issue so long as you drive with the paddles like I do. Only time I leave it in sport is when I'm pushing for flat out on straight line acceleration. For whatever reason the programming allows a higher redline in sport than in manual.I didn't even consider the stock auto shift points, but I see what you mean. It looks unless you're driving in manual and revving high there isn't much difference. I'm still pretty curious though.
Honestly not much of an issue so long as you drive with the paddles like I do. Only time I leave it in sport is when I'm pushing for flat out on straight line acceleration. For whatever reason the programming allows a higher redline in sport than in manual.
Ah I should probably go and change that lol. Been holding out great so far, only issue was with the charge pipe coming from the intercooler popping off but that was a quick and easy fix. Still no slippage from the transmission to report and it shifts as good as ever.I normally drive with the paddles too so it wouldn't affect me as much. I'm more so curious in how the transmission would be able to hold up given the torque bump.
Your sig says is20 but your comment says you're on an is38 now? How has it been doing since your last post?
I have an Is20. I've researched and talked to my local APR dealer. He said the engine should last with the IS38 without a tune. Due to the 1.8 engine internals being weaker than the GTi, it is best to stay with the stock ECU.
Correct me if I'm wrong but did your dealer seriously recommend running Is38 without accompanying software? I mean you technically can, but why on earth go through the trouble of a turbo swap if you won't even tune for it. Besides as melted pointed out, we run out of fueling before the internals give up. Now if I was running something like a boss 500 for all its worth with a uprated hpfp I'd probably start getting nervous about the crankshaft.I have an Is20. I've researched and talked to my local APR dealer. He said the engine should last with the IS38 without a tune. Due to the 1.8 engine internals being weaker than the GTi, it is best to stay with the stock ECU.