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Does anyone sell the piston end cap for HPFPs?

clockwise33

New York Giants Fanatic
Location
NJ
FWIW I bought my 06 GTI new in May 2006 and it came with the revised "B" intake cam, so not all 2006 cars started out life with the defective cam.
 

Tungaloy

New member
Location
USA
If you didn't have fuel cuts then you can try. The problem is that this plunger part is not supposed to be replaced and is not sold separately, why not run the pump like this with just a new follower? What you could do as well is weld some more material on it and then sand it so it's flat. If you replace only the cam follower be sure to check it very very regularly, something like every 500 miles because the cam will eat through it quite fast depending its condition.



No codes, engine running fine and no weirdness to the cam follower you removed, I would install the new can follower and check on it at 500 or 1000 miles down the road. If all good at that that time you can relax a little and and stretch out the mileage between checking on it.

I personally would not try to weld additional martial to the pump, to much heat tested stuff there which could be effected

I don't want to run the new cam follower on the piston as it is because the end is worn at a slant. I'm worried the cam kicking the follower ot an angle and wearing out the journal that the follower rides in or causing the piston to become side loaded instead of an axial load and damaging the piston or the cylinder it's riding in.

I thought about building up the end cap with brazing or weld then machining it flat but I don't know what the original height was. I dont want to build it up too much then have the piston bottom out in its cylinder. That would be bad. Annealing any. Heat treating that might have been done to it is a good point too
 

Tungaloy

New member
Location
USA
As to everyone elses point on the cam, you're probably right on it needing to be replaced. I've only looked at it so far through the bore for the cam follower. However it was producing enough lift to run the engine ok before, and it should be even better with the pump repaired and the cam follower replaced. I agree 100% that it will probably wear the cam follower out much faster, but if I can get 5000 miles out of it then I'll be on track to replace the cam when I pull the head. I'll pull the vacuum pump and post some pics of it this evening to get you guys opinion.

It seems to me that with the nature of this problem someone should have gotten info from VW on what the minimum measurement across the lobes should be. Even if you're changing 5he follower regularly it'll still wear the camshaft down. At which point you Mic it to tell when it's time to change the camshaft out
 

dmfracer

Ready to race!
Here's what a bad fuel pump cam lobe looks like. If you can see or feel any grooves with your fingernail the intake cam is trash. This is a picture I took of mine last summer when I was dealing with the same problem you currently have.

 

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vwengineer

Ready to race!
Location
Switzerland
It seems to me that with the nature of this problem someone should have gotten info from VW on what the minimum measurement across the lobes should be. Even if you're changing 5he follower regularly it'll still wear the camshaft down. At which point you Mic it to tell when it's time to change the camshaft out

In fact the cam follower is not designed to be changed. It is not part of any service interval or control. Some fail and some do not, in Europe this issue is pretty uncommon on stock engines which are regularly serviced. Mine had past 190'000 miles when I replaced it, it did not have the black finish but was flat with a good amount of material left (pictures here: http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3830470&postcount=554).
 

Tungaloy

New member
Location
USA
I'm having trouble getting my camera to size the pics correctly but the lobes are definitely wiped. I appreciate you guys posting some pics for me to compare it against. That was definitely a huge help.

JH Motorsports did sell me a cap for $45. It seems that I'm not the first one to try going this route. They said it's works with OEM internals.
 

Tungaloy

New member
Location
USA
In fact the cam follower is not designed to be changed. It is not part of any service interval or control. Some fail and some do not, in Europe this issue is pretty uncommon on stock engines which are regularly serviced. Mine had past 190'000 miles when I replaced it, it did not have the black finish but was flat with a good amount of material left (pictures here: http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3830470&postcount=554).


I get what you're saying. However It is a common problem here in the states. Knowing the limits on what has turned out to be a wear item, even if it is inadvertently so, is good tool to have for troubleshooting fuel problems. I'd rather know that the camshaft is bad by having a solid datum to look at than assuming it is.
 

ROH ECHT

K04 PLAY
Location
PDX OR
Car(s)
2007 MKV GTI
Just because the CF isn't mentioned at any service interval in the manual doesn't mean that it isn't an issue. Otherwise VW wouldn't have switched to the TSI w/roller CF mid-'08 production. Yes, it wasn't designed to fail, but it does...even with the version-B intake cam and many miles. Many people are buying used MK5 GTI's and driving around with CF's already worn through and unaware of it. I have told a handful of people in this situation to check the CF immediately because they just bought it and it has over 150k miles on them. They all but one had a faceless CF and grooved tri-lobe because the one lucky soul found the CF was replaced before purchasing. Oil helps, yes, and US "Full Synthetic" only needs to be 51% or more to be labeled as such. I personally would've just put in a new CF for now and put the $45 towards a new HPFP. Worried that the CF cylinder in the tensioner cover will wear due to a wobbly CF is gone and passed by now as it would've already done so while the CF had gotten concave and was yet worn through.
 
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Tungaloy

New member
Location
USA
J
. I personally would've just put in a new CF for now and put the $45 towards a new HPFP. Worried that the CF cylinder in the tensioner cover will wear due to a wobbly CF is gone and passed by now as it would've already done so while the CF had gotten concave and was yet worn through.

That's a good point. The other half of that though is preventing further damage if any to the pump cause I want to repair that and keep using it. That $45 allows me to put the rest of the money id be spending on the HPFP into a used camshaft off of ebay. Its looks like ill be able to repair this for about $200 instead of about $550. Its not the way id prefer to do it, but its the way I need to do it in order to catch up the other periodic items on this car that have been ignored
 

GTI's

Drag Racing Champion
Location
MD
At this point just put a new CF in and check it periodically until you saved enough money so you can do the job correctly with new parts and not used. A lot of these car with failed CF and destroyed CS and hpfp are sold to unsuspecting buyers with just a new CF and then the problem is passed on down the road to them. If you are going to keep this car might as well do it right or not at all. Here is an example of someone passing the buck and not doing the job correctly, plastic on CF to hide issues enough to sell car.



As pointed out when buying a used FSI motored car check the CF, in fact check it before you buy as part of the PPI. I would personally not buy a car that had suffered from these issue and was repaired, have seen to many car have oil related mechanical problems afterwards.

Op you should a last drop oil pan clean it out and place magnets on oil pickup to catch the metal shaving, this is what VW does when doing this type of repair.
 
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