Planning on running a eBay catless dp with eurojet catback. Already have all parts such as o2 spacer and dp install kit. As for the tuning for now all I really want to do is stage 1. But for prevention of cel is it possible to get a test file on the stage 1 tune So then for emissions I would swap dp and just go back to stock tune. Any help is great thanks.
V
Stage 1 question
- Thread starter Bgatz
- Start date
Timpanogos Slim
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Hurtling up and down I15 in Utah
with spacer you don't need a test pipe file.
mostly. I have catless dp, right-angle spacer, and GIAC non-test-pipe tune, and very occasionally after some extended WOT time i get codes for aft o2 sensor heater circuit internal resistance too high and aft o2 sensor response too slow. Which is the ECU's way of saying that the aft O2 sensor did not react quickly enough to a massive increase in fuel consumption.
But it's also accompanied by a rich mixture code which is due to my POS BSH TrueSeal intake. That's my theory of course.
mostly. I have catless dp, right-angle spacer, and GIAC non-test-pipe tune, and very occasionally after some extended WOT time i get codes for aft o2 sensor heater circuit internal resistance too high and aft o2 sensor response too slow. Which is the ECU's way of saying that the aft O2 sensor did not react quickly enough to a massive increase in fuel consumption.
But it's also accompanied by a rich mixture code which is due to my POS BSH TrueSeal intake. That's my theory of course.
Op, What's the reason for not going stage two since you have the downpipe? stage two would remove any of your concerns.BTW you've posted this in the wrong section. You'll get more replies in the engine and driveline section
@Slim I ran a true seal for years with zero issues. Maybe you need the test pipe file. I've seem a few people having your same issue on giac.
@Slim I ran a true seal for years with zero issues. Maybe you need the test pipe file. I've seem a few people having your same issue on giac.
Tutti57
Ready to race!
- Location
- Rochester,NY
The easiest way is to have someone weld on a $100 cat and go stage two. That way you won't have to swap pipes every year and you won get a cel.
Otherwise the cheapest route is catless and spacer on stage 1. I would still do stage 2 if you have the pipe though.
Otherwise the cheapest route is catless and spacer on stage 1. I would still do stage 2 if you have the pipe though.
At first I wanted stage 1. Gradually work my way to stage 2+. I have tsi. Cbfa. In ct emissions are due every 2 years so it won't be bad swapping it for emissions. I was just wondering if they could put that test pipe file with the stage one tune just in case the spacer doesn't work. I have heard it's about 50/50 I have a raimotorsport J spacer. so for emissions I could just switch back to stock dp and tune
Red5pade
.
- Location
- Pikeville, KY
- Car(s)
- Subaru
no, tsi doesnt have a s2+. its just a s2 with boltons i guess. but go strait s2. there isnt that big of a difference between s1 and s2.
I've never heard of a tuner offering a file just to get rid of the check engine light at stage 1, and spacers are hit or miss on whether they'll work or not. I still don't understand your point of only doing stage one. The only reason people do that usually is if they don't have a downpipe already. You do, so why not go ahead for the same price? You're just going to spend more money doing each stage at a time, which is pointless when you have the supporting hardware to skip Stage 1.
Timpanogos Slim
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Hurtling up and down I15 in Utah
I'm in an emissions county so i am going to need to add a catalyst in december anyway.
Test pipe file isn't gonna make a rich mixture code go away - that comes from readings on the pre-cat o2 sensor.
I hate the stupid BSH intake (and hate BSH in general) - It was on the car when i bought it. I've acquired a stock intake that I'm going to run until i find a good deal on a Volant intake, or just decide to spend $280 on a Volant intake. Some time next summer probably.
Timpanogos Slim
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Hurtling up and down I15 in Utah
Oh, and i will propose this reason for staying at stage 1:
Too cheap to upgrade the HPFP and IC. Depending on how you do that, it'll cost from $600 to, well, as much as you want to spend really. Couple grand if you go with a new HPFP with new APR internals and an APR intercooler.
IF I go stage 2, I'll have a Golf R IC purchased used and an Autotech HPFP upgrade, possibly in a low-miles used HPFP.
I was gonna get in on a sweet deal with integrated's new HPFP upgrade but there was a misunderstanding.
Too cheap to upgrade the HPFP and IC. Depending on how you do that, it'll cost from $600 to, well, as much as you want to spend really. Couple grand if you go with a new HPFP with new APR internals and an APR intercooler.
IF I go stage 2, I'll have a Golf R IC purchased used and an Autotech HPFP upgrade, possibly in a low-miles used HPFP.
I was gonna get in on a sweet deal with integrated's new HPFP upgrade but there was a misunderstanding.
Tutti57
Ready to race!
- Location
- Rochester,NY
Op has a tsi though, so no hpfp needed.
pdizzlegti
Ready to race!
- Location
- Halifax Nova Scotia
buy my carbonio 160 $
Timpanogos Slim
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Hurtling up and down I15 in Utah
meh. i want functional not pretty.
pdizzlegti
Ready to race!
- Location
- Halifax Nova Scotia
lolz