Racing Brake R32 rotor review

[Dynjo]

HP+ pads are only rated up to 800 degrees F

I routinely see 1100 - 1300 F, and that's with crappy old street tires and a crappy old driver. It would only be higher with R-comps and a hotshoe.

 

[bostonaudi]

I routinely see 1100 - 1300 F, and that's with crappy old street tires and a crappy old driver. It would only be higher with R-comps and a hotshoe.

Given that back of my pads were white I suspect I was way past rated 800F!

How are you measuring?

 

[Dynjo]

How are you measuring?

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=4974

I put a dab of temp-indicating paint on a rotor vane on each wheel and sometimes a dab on the backing plates.

I have also put temp-indicating stickers on on the calipers but really did not see much happening there, leading me to conclude the brake fluid is not too temperature-challenged.

Laser guns are not capable of capturing the peak temperatures seen during a lap, making them essentially useless for this application, unless, of course, you have one mounted on the suspension and you record the output with a datalogger. That would be cool, but not feasible for the common man.

 

[bostonaudi]

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=4974

I put a dab of temp-indicating paint on a rotor vane on each wheel and sometimes a dab on the backing plates.

I have also put temp-indicating stickers on on the calipers but really did not see much happening there, leading me to conclude the brake fluid is not too temperature-challenged.

Laser guns are not capable of capturing the peak temperatures seen during a lap, making them essentially useless for this application, unless, of course, you have one mounted on the suspension and you record the output with a datalogger. That would be cool, but not feasible for the common man.

Paint idea seems like good one. Yeah, by the time you pit you've already missed peak temp so laser gun not gonna do it.

 

[telaio]

I managed to induce some pad-fade on the yellowstuff pads during my moronic attempt at bedding (successive 70MPH-5MPH braking every 10 seconds) . As pad fade needs about 800C I have no trouble of believing that 800F is very easily exceeded on a suitable track.

 

[bostonaudi]

I managed to induce some pad-fade on the yellowstuff pads during my moronic attempt at bedding (successive 70MPH-5MPH braking every 10 seconds) . As pad fade needs about 800C I have no trouble of believing that 800F is very easily exceeded on a suitable track.

Yeah, my feeling is yellowstuff will be a lateral move from HP+. Gonna try it, if that fails then have to talk Hawk or EBC into cutting some R32 pads with their more aggressive compounds.

This might interest anyone else with R32 RB rotors.

 

[the bruce]

If YellowStuff doesn't work try Pagid, Performance Friction or Endless.
Most european professional teams run these brands.

 

[bostonaudi]

I YellowStuff doesn't work try Pagid, Performance Friction or Endless.
Most european professional teams run these brands.

Just took a look at Carbotech's website, they seem to have the full range available for R32.

XP-10 looks like the ticket.

"XP10™ is also ideal for advanced/instructor level HPDE drivers."

 

[bostonaudi]

RB said Carbotech's will likely have issues too.

so calling all R32 owners - Hawk said they'll cut a set of DTC-60's in R32 size, but need commitment to 20 sets.

http://www.golfmk5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153512

 

[the bruce]

http://www.at-rs.de/english.html

http://www.at-rs.de/katalog-downloa...umente/Pagid_ Performance_Motorsport_2007.pdf

 

[bostonaudi]

http://www.at-rs.de/english.html

http://www.at-rs.de/katalog-downloa...umente/Pagid_ Performance_Motorsport_2007.pdf

I've looked through the Pagid catalog, not clear if they have race pad in Mk5 R32. They explicitly list Mk4 R32, and Golf Mk5 in 345mm. Gonna have to give them a ring.

http://www.braketechnology.com/car.html

 

[the bruce]

There's only one Golf Mk.V 345 mm: the R32/S3 Ate FNRG caliper brake

 

[ZPrime]

Keeping an eye on this, because I'm considering picking up the front/rear set, but only if I can get pads that won't fuck the rotors.

I then worry about how noisy they will be, because I autox and funday occasionally, but primarily the R is my DD... My stock rotors and pads have started squealing like a pig on light pedal, but it goes away when i push harder. annoying as hell in lights at traffic.

And yeah, you don't want to use Carbotech with RB per my stuff quoted earlier in the thread.

 

[ZPrime]

One other point to bring up... if you guys care about car appearance at all, RB may not be a great idea. In theory it is going to be shedding less metal, but you have to figure that when it does come off it is going to flake off since it is so much harder than stock. That is going to do hell on paint.

Just a wild-ass guess, but it is something to consider since I know some people are putting RB on non-"go" cars that are "moar low."

 

[bostonaudi]

One other point to bring up... if you guys care about car appearance at all, RB may not be a great idea. In theory it is going to be shedding less metal, but you have to figure that when it does come off it is going to flake off since it is so much harder than stock. That is going to do hell on paint.

Just a wild-ass guess, but it is something to consider since I know some people are putting RB on non-"go" cars that are "moar low."

That is a legit concern - dust from track duty pads. Simple answer is take your ride to the carwash after an event. This has NOTHING to do with RB rotors, it will happen with ANY rotor. Its the pads that cause it, not the rotor.

It is not a realistic expectation to run aggressive track pads on street. You have to get them off again after you get back from an event.

If Hawk does not step up to plate, RB itself may come out with track duty pad totally appropriate for the rotors, so there is light at end of tunnel for R32 users.

I find Carbotech's statement of why their pads don't work disingenuous.