nkresho
suck, squish, bang, blow
- Location
- Pittsburgh
- Car(s)
- 2022 Q3
So, my clutch started slipping right after I went stage 2 APR.
I was getting slip right around peak torque (2500RPM-3000RPM). I was relatively easy on it for about two months and it stayed basically the same for the duration. If Iwas at WOT in gears 4-6 it would do it.
It was not sensitive to outside temperature, as it would slip at 80 degrees down to right around 15. Same slip, same rpm range, etc.
The last few times I drove it, it was starting to slip over a seemingly larger range, before catching. It would slip to about 4000rpm. Also, this was much worse with 2-4 people in the car.
I decided to go with another stock clutch as I don't want to deal with the tractor transmission sounds of a single mass flywheel.
I got the clutch from DBC for under $300. It included the throw out bearing, friction disc, and the pressure plate. AFAIK that is the cheapest place around. The part number is on the box, in my pic. http://shop.dbctuning.com/06F141015C_p/06f141015c.htm
In addition, I had to buy a new axle bolt for the drivers side (one time use) and a couple of bottles of brake fluid (to bleed the clutch). I picked up a transmission jack from harborfreight for $80 as well. http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-capacity-transmission-jack-39178.html
The install was done in my non-heated garage. I used a propane heater.
I will try to be as descriptive as I can with the install pics.
I just took it for a spin around the block and it drives just fine. I won't get to see if the slip has been remidied for a hundred miles or so. I am going to try to stay out of boost for the first little bit as to properly bed the clutch disc.
Tool list:
I was getting slip right around peak torque (2500RPM-3000RPM). I was relatively easy on it for about two months and it stayed basically the same for the duration. If Iwas at WOT in gears 4-6 it would do it.
It was not sensitive to outside temperature, as it would slip at 80 degrees down to right around 15. Same slip, same rpm range, etc.
The last few times I drove it, it was starting to slip over a seemingly larger range, before catching. It would slip to about 4000rpm. Also, this was much worse with 2-4 people in the car.
I decided to go with another stock clutch as I don't want to deal with the tractor transmission sounds of a single mass flywheel.
I got the clutch from DBC for under $300. It included the throw out bearing, friction disc, and the pressure plate. AFAIK that is the cheapest place around. The part number is on the box, in my pic. http://shop.dbctuning.com/06F141015C_p/06f141015c.htm
In addition, I had to buy a new axle bolt for the drivers side (one time use) and a couple of bottles of brake fluid (to bleed the clutch). I picked up a transmission jack from harborfreight for $80 as well. http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-capacity-transmission-jack-39178.html
The install was done in my non-heated garage. I used a propane heater.
I will try to be as descriptive as I can with the install pics.
I just took it for a spin around the block and it drives just fine. I won't get to see if the slip has been remidied for a hundred miles or so. I am going to try to stay out of boost for the first little bit as to properly bed the clutch disc.
Tool list:
- Jack
- Jackstands (2)
- drive-on ramps
- lots of metric sockets (mostly 13mm, 16mm, 17mm, and 18mm)
- 12 point 24mm socket (for axle bolt)
- metric combination wrenches (mostly 13mm, 16mm, 17mm, and 18mm)
- triple square set (IIRC I only used the 10mm)
- torx screwdrivers
- motive brake bleeder (you can get away without this one)
- torque wrench (capable of torquing the wheel studs at least 89 foot pounds)
- long breaker bar (1/2" for hard to get off bolts)
- maybe more, I can't remember...
Here's the clutch. it's a LUK. Pressure plate, disc, throw out bearing, and alignment tool all in the same box.
There's a bit of anti-rust treatment on the pressure plate. Gotta remember to clean it off before installing.
Harbor freight tranny jack and my trusty propane heater.
Here's a random shot of the car. A pic of the new axle bolts (I got two just in case I had to remove the passenger side axle) I didn't. They're the 12 point ones and the stock ones were 6 point, with a washer. And a reminder shot that the downpipe is going to need to be loostened. This is so the engine can move around freely.
Pulling the drivers side wheel and the front underside engine cover.
Drivers side intercooler pipe removed, and the throttle body pipe is being removed. All of it was in the way of the transmission.
Yank out that starter. Two bolts (kinda like studs with a fixed nut) These also partially attach the tranny to the motor.
Twist the starter out of the way and you have access to the shift linkages. You don't have to completely unwire the starter.
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