V
Looking for DIY on how to replace coilpack connector
- Thread starter steelcurtain
- Start date
steelcurtain
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Fredericksburg, VA
:thumbsup:
Just replaced them. Easy job. Look inside and u will see a pink clip, pull it out from the side that had an opening. Then get two large paper clips and stick them inside the little openings above the mettal pin, pull the wires out. Put everything back and u are all done.
steelcurtain
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Fredericksburg, VA
Here's instructions on how to replace the ignition coil wiring connector on the 2.0 FSI/TSI engine. This procedure may apply to other models. PM me with this info and I'll update the thread. I'm also going to post this as a separate DIY in the DIY section of this forum.
The connector is the part that sits between the ignition coil and the wiring harness that connects the ignition coil to the wiring harness. You will be working closely and somewhat blindly with the ignition system wiring. Due to this, choose your tools and approach wisely to avoid cutting the 4 wires you will be working with to avoid further headaches. You may want to disconnect the negative terminal from your battery but it's not needed. This fix is easy, but you could accidentally cut ignition wires if you aren't careful. GL and feel free to ask me questions if you need some assistance. PM's are welcomed but if it's informative please post in this thread to assist future readers. :smile:
*************************
What you are doing:
The part itself is basically a plastic harness. You will be removing the 4 wires from the old harness and inserting them into the new harness.
Tools Required:
-Quanity (2) small narrow (1/8') flat head screw drivers that are small enough to push the wire leads out of the connector. You may be able to use a paper clip but not sure. It took some force to get them out so the handle on the screwdriver made this easier.
-Needle nose pliers to assist with inserting the wire leads into the new connector.
Steps
1 - Purchase VW part # 4b0-973-724. Average price is $20 - $24 dollars with shipping or from the dealer. Remove pink locking collar and set aside. Collar slides easily to the left out of opening on left side.
2 - Disconnect the coil pack connector that you are replacing from the wiring harness . This part is a bitch - using the flat head screwdrivers, press in on the two tabs located at the 9:00 and 3:00 position on the sides of the coil connector closest to the wiring harness. When the tabs are free from the wiring harness while you are pressing in on both tabs - gently twist the connector 1/4 turns from left to right to get the connector out of the "grip" of the wiring harness. Take it easy cause you can splice the ignition wires if you push in on the tabs and stab the wires, or if you use the wrong tool, plus you can easily break the tabs.
3 - Once you get the connector free, take note of the color scheme of the 4 wires coming from the wiring harness to the back of the connector. Each wire has it's own "opening" on the backside of the connector. The openings are labeled 1 - 4. Here's is the color scheme of the wires and number scheme on my car. You will need this info for Step 4.
1 - Red/Green
2 - Brown
3 - Blue
4 - Brown/Green
Next, make sure the pink locking collar has been removed from the connector. Once removed, use the flat head screwdriver to push out the wire leads from the front of the connector to the back. Don't insert the flat head "into" the opening of the lead, but place the end of the screwdriver perpendicular against the lead. This will avoid "widening" the lead which could lead (hahaha) to a loose connection.
The wire leads have two tension prongs. They are very small and brittle. Chances are they will be bent backwards after you push the leads out. Be sure to bend them back before going to step 4. (back meaning flat against the lead and pointing towards the wiring harness) I don't have a good picture but here are the leads after they have been removed. Plus here is the empty coupler they came out of. You should get the idea.
4 - Get your new connector and remove the pink locking collar. Insert the leads into the appropriate openings on the backside of the new coupler that are labeled 1 -4. Make sure you are using the color/number scheme noted from Step 3. The leads must be flush with the opening of the connector that goes to the ignition coil. They should look exactly how they were when they were installed in the old connector. If they don't, use the needle nose pliers to "grab" the ignition wires to assist with pushing them into place. Be careful not to damage the wire when using the needle nose pliers. If you can't seem to get it to fit, remove the leads from the connector and make sure the small tension prongs are pointing the right way.
Once the leads are inserted properly in the connector, install the pink locking collar. Then connect the connector to the wiring harness making sure the tabs lock into place. Then reconnect the entire assembly to your coil packs to complete the job! Reconnect your battery (if you did this step) and run a TB alignment if you have the capability. Start up the car to check for a MIL or better yet scan with VCDS for codes. GL:thumbsup::smile:
The connector is the part that sits between the ignition coil and the wiring harness that connects the ignition coil to the wiring harness. You will be working closely and somewhat blindly with the ignition system wiring. Due to this, choose your tools and approach wisely to avoid cutting the 4 wires you will be working with to avoid further headaches. You may want to disconnect the negative terminal from your battery but it's not needed. This fix is easy, but you could accidentally cut ignition wires if you aren't careful. GL and feel free to ask me questions if you need some assistance. PM's are welcomed but if it's informative please post in this thread to assist future readers. :smile:
*************************
What you are doing:
The part itself is basically a plastic harness. You will be removing the 4 wires from the old harness and inserting them into the new harness.
Tools Required:
-Quanity (2) small narrow (1/8') flat head screw drivers that are small enough to push the wire leads out of the connector. You may be able to use a paper clip but not sure. It took some force to get them out so the handle on the screwdriver made this easier.
-Needle nose pliers to assist with inserting the wire leads into the new connector.
Steps
1 - Purchase VW part # 4b0-973-724. Average price is $20 - $24 dollars with shipping or from the dealer. Remove pink locking collar and set aside. Collar slides easily to the left out of opening on left side.
2 - Disconnect the coil pack connector that you are replacing from the wiring harness . This part is a bitch - using the flat head screwdrivers, press in on the two tabs located at the 9:00 and 3:00 position on the sides of the coil connector closest to the wiring harness. When the tabs are free from the wiring harness while you are pressing in on both tabs - gently twist the connector 1/4 turns from left to right to get the connector out of the "grip" of the wiring harness. Take it easy cause you can splice the ignition wires if you push in on the tabs and stab the wires, or if you use the wrong tool, plus you can easily break the tabs.
3 - Once you get the connector free, take note of the color scheme of the 4 wires coming from the wiring harness to the back of the connector. Each wire has it's own "opening" on the backside of the connector. The openings are labeled 1 - 4. Here's is the color scheme of the wires and number scheme on my car. You will need this info for Step 4.
1 - Red/Green
2 - Brown
3 - Blue
4 - Brown/Green
Next, make sure the pink locking collar has been removed from the connector. Once removed, use the flat head screwdriver to push out the wire leads from the front of the connector to the back. Don't insert the flat head "into" the opening of the lead, but place the end of the screwdriver perpendicular against the lead. This will avoid "widening" the lead which could lead (hahaha) to a loose connection.
The wire leads have two tension prongs. They are very small and brittle. Chances are they will be bent backwards after you push the leads out. Be sure to bend them back before going to step 4. (back meaning flat against the lead and pointing towards the wiring harness) I don't have a good picture but here are the leads after they have been removed. Plus here is the empty coupler they came out of. You should get the idea.
4 - Get your new connector and remove the pink locking collar. Insert the leads into the appropriate openings on the backside of the new coupler that are labeled 1 -4. Make sure you are using the color/number scheme noted from Step 3. The leads must be flush with the opening of the connector that goes to the ignition coil. They should look exactly how they were when they were installed in the old connector. If they don't, use the needle nose pliers to "grab" the ignition wires to assist with pushing them into place. Be careful not to damage the wire when using the needle nose pliers. If you can't seem to get it to fit, remove the leads from the connector and make sure the small tension prongs are pointing the right way.
Once the leads are inserted properly in the connector, install the pink locking collar. Then connect the connector to the wiring harness making sure the tabs lock into place. Then reconnect the entire assembly to your coil packs to complete the job! Reconnect your battery (if you did this step) and run a TB alignment if you have the capability. Start up the car to check for a MIL or better yet scan with VCDS for codes. GL:thumbsup::smile:
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