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100k+

Muahaahaa

nip deep in pow
Location
Denver, CO
So, I've had an 06 GTI for the past 3 years, and I've absolutely loved it...but it was recently totaled by a drunk driver, so I'm looking at getting into an R32.

I really don't want another car payment, so I've been looking at paying cash for a higher mileage R:.

I know the VR6 motor is bulletproof, but aside from making sure the recalls have all been done and keeping an eye on the DSG, are there any other things I should be worried about, especially on a car with 100k+ miles?

Sorry if this has been asked before, but from what I've found from looking around...it seems like no one drives these cars past 50k...so :iono:
 

Saabstory

.:R32 OG Member # 002
Location
Maryland
Car(s)
MKVI Golf TDI 6MT
I owned/drove my R32 to 116,000 miles prior to trading in on my TDI. Properly cared for these cars are truly amazing at high mileage, just be sure the maintenance was done. I'd posted this on the 'Tex when someone asked the same question, so hopefully it will help out:
  • Check the headlight operation; does it have DRLs? Do the auto headlights work? Do the self leveling headlights do their proper start up check? Are both HIDs the same brightness and color?
  • Run it with the hood open; listen for any off sounds; whining, chugging, metal contact, etc.
  • Put in reverse and turn the steering wheel lock to lock; listen for any clunks, thuds, etc from front or back.
  • Let off the brake and see if it starts rolling back on its own (like an auto) or if it jerks, shudders, or starts off rough.
  • While still rolling, gently tap the brakes and go from reverse to D; see if it slides into gear smoothly (with a slight delay) or if it clunks, bucks, kicks, or shudders.
  • start forward, steer from lock to lock and listen for any sounds again.
  • Check the cruise control for operation. At least 5 times... In other words: try cruise, if it works stop the car, turn off and remove key completely, then restart and try again. at least 5 times... (Trust me on this one... It is a minor inconvenience that becomes incredibly annoying if you have it)
  • Once she is fully warmed up; roll to a slow stop; see if the transmission is relatively smooth or if it bucks or jerks trying to stop.
  • Let it sit at idle with the AC and radio on for at least 5 minutes. It should idle smoothly and steadily at ~650-700 rpm without a single variation to it for the whole 5 minutes. If the idle speed jumps up to 1000-1200 rpms; have them give you a new battery before you buy it. Trust me on this one too...
  • Accelerate at full power and see if it shifts smoothly, redlines, makes any strange noises, etc. Listen especially for any high pitched whine from the passenger side.
That should get you past most of the common failures

Specifically for higher mileage cars; be sure to check these:
1. Ensure the Serpentine belt and tensioner/idler pulleys have been changed. If not get a deduction in the cost for them. The tensioners on these cars are a big concern and actually have failed even at low mileage.

2. Ensure the DSG and the Haldex fluid were changed at 40k and 80k. If they weren't; take a slow speed drive with the windows open/radio off and listen for any strange noises at all from the rear end.

Lost more info/discussion here as well if interested.
 
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qcbtbx

smu.:Rf
Location
HR, VA
Car(s)
.:R32
OP: that sucks to hear about your car, bro.
I am driving my .:R and sitting at a little over 53K. If the HID bulbs have not been replaced in a while, then be prepared to do so because they also serve as DRLs, shortening their life.

Just did my haldex and had all the 40K service done this year (fuel filter, DSG service, Haldex). Be sure 40K service has been done.

Also, if there is a loud whining noise on startup that lasts for 30-60 secs, then that is normal...it is the secondary air pump working like it should (something to do with reducing emissions). some .:Rs do it and others don't.

all in all if you are good the car, it will be good to you.

Saab, you the man!
 

ikey3125

Ready to race!
Specifically for higher mileage cars; be sure to check these:
1. Ensure the timing belt and tensioner/idler pulleys have been changed. If not get a deduction in the cost for them. The tensioners on these cars are a big concern and actually have failed even at low mileage.

The VR has a timing chain, not a belt.

And the tensioner that failed for most of us was for the serpentine belt.
 

Muahaahaa

nip deep in pow
Location
Denver, CO
2. Ensure the DSG and the Haldex fluid were changed at 40k and 80k. If they weren't; take a slow speed drive with the windows open/radio off and listen for any strange noises at all from the rear end.

Lost more info/discussion here as well if interested.

Lots of great info. Thank you!

Should I expect to have to do DSG/Haldex maint every 40k? How much does that usually run?


If the HID bulbs have not been replaced in a while, then be prepared to do so because they also serve as DRLs, shortening their life.

Yeah, The first thing I did with my GTI was coding the DRL's off.

Also, if there is a loud whining noise on startup.

Aww...no supercharger? haha
 

BostonTexas

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Austin, Texas
I currently have 90k on my R32 since I bought it new and the car is just running perfectly. All maintenance is done on regular basis using only the best. Never had a problem with it.
Just make sure to check maintenance receipts and log from previous owner.
I would get a third party mechanic to inspect the car prior buying it, better spend $$$ now and make sure the car you're buying is good, or try to negociate some warranty on the car if you buy it from a dealer?
 

Muahaahaa

nip deep in pow
Location
Denver, CO
Thanks everyone! I picked up #943 this last weekend, and the car is great! One owner, 112k miles and the previous owner was a VW manager, so the car has had everything done to it.

The only issue the car seems to have is that the fuse for the windshield washer pump keeps blowing. I've replaced it a couple times and still no luck. Anyone else come across this issue?
 
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