Coilover dilemma

[ChristopherNeil]

I currently have Bilstein B16s on my '16 Autobahn. The issues I'm having, I can't figure out if they're user error, or what I'm seeking will be solved by upgrading coilovers. I've had the settings everywhere from 9f/10r to 5f/7r.

I've gradually softened the damping to get a little more comfort, but it seems to undulate/ bounce more on the highway and feels less settled. At the stiffer settings, it is not much better. However, when it comes to slight unevenness in the road, or minor potholes, it's leaves me wanting more. Protrusions or raised areas that are slightly above the road surface, it seems overly harsh, yet if it's a "drop off"(~1" drop) to a lower surface, it almost seems too soft.

I'm going to raise the front around 10mm soon, to see if that changes anything, but I'm inquiring anyway. Coilovers aren't leaking, and relevant mods are whiteline LCA/balljoints, 034 topmounts, H&R sways (26/28), 034 endlinks, Eurosport f/r strut braces.


I guess my question is, where do I go from here? I'm inclined to go to something with separate compression/rebound... I want compliance but dynamic performance for the spirited drives. Cost isn't the deciding factor here. KW v3, KW clubsports, Ohlins, MCS, all contenders... or am I asking for a unicorn?

 

[DerHase]

How far before the car is on the bump stops? That is the single biggest thing a lot of people mess up when lowering their car.

I actually have since trimmed more off of the top of my front bump stops and a bit off the top of my rear bumps and the car is SO much better now. The shocks won't damp the suspension correctly if the spring rate goes to the moon.

Ohlins are probably the best that won't require overly ridiculous service intervals. But you'll be running them closer to stock ride height to actually be good.

 

[ChristopherNeil]

Great video. I've been watching a several videos addressing those details of setting up suspension. I'm limited on tools/space to do jobs like that myself (tiny garage). I need to see if my bump stops were ever trimmed when they were installed – I bought them gently used off the master tech that installed them onto my car, but I think we just installed and sent it, no height adjustments, only alignment. Subbing to your YT though.

 

[scrllock]

So it feels unsettled at speed on soft, and too harsh on rough roads on stiff?

First I'd check the balljoints and bushings just in case they're loose or have developed play. I'd be suspect of the whiteline and 034 stuff, particularly the control arm bushings.

I think 2-ways are way overkill for spirited drives.. Sure, you can dial up the high-speed rebound and keep compression soft, but I'd guess you're more likely just throwing too many parts at it already. Ohlins R&T are hands-down the nicest option on a street car. Aluminum inverted monotubes, can use stock mounts, easily adjustable without cutting up your car.

 

[kep]

Ohlins are nice, but require more frequent service intervals than the simpler options.

 

[scrllock]

Ohlins are nice, but require more frequent service intervals than the simpler options.

of the options OP listed, they're much easier to have serviced and require much less service than a true race strut like MCS.

 

[ChristopherNeil]

So it feels unsettled at speed on soft, and too harsh on rough roads on stiff?

First I'd check the balljoints and bushings just in case they're loose or have developed play. I'd be suspect of the whiteline and 034 stuff, particularly the control arm bushings.

I think 2-ways are way overkill for spirited drives.. Sure, you can dial up the high-speed rebound and keep compression soft, but I'd guess you're more likely just throwing too many parts at it already. Ohlins R&T are hands-down the nicest option on a street car. Aluminum inverted monotubes, can use stock mounts, easily adjustable without cutting up your car.

Yeah, it's a bit odd. My cars going in for the 80k service next week, I'm going to have him check the lower control arms and ball joints when we raise the front.

The thing is, driving through twisties it feels incredibly tight and responsive to my input. I just can't seem to get the daily cruising part dialed. I can handle "firm," it's just the harshness I'm trying to dial back. In my experiences with past cars, even with full spherical bushings, I was able to dial coilovers in to be tolerable. But those were external reservoirs, too, hence why I'm expanding my options.

Not trying to throw bookoo money at it, but just trying to get a result that's efficient and not cost-cutting, if that makes sense.

CUE RUN-ON THOUGHT: If $3-5k coilovers solve it, take my money. Versus running through changing control arms, bushings, multiple times, (plus factoring downtime and labor costs) and still being dissatisfied with the aforementioned aspects of ride quality.

I just feel like I'm asking foot something that doesn't exist, but I also know that somewhere, it does.


And for what it's worth, I drive maybe 7,500 miles/year.

 

[scrllock]

The thing is, driving through twisties it feels incredibly tight and responsive to my input. I just can't seem to get the daily cruising part dialed. I can handle "firm," it's just the harshness I'm trying to dial back.

CUE RUN-ON THOUGHT: If $3-5k coilovers solve it, take my money. Versus running through changing control arms, bushings, multiple times, (plus factoring downtime and labor costs) and still being dissatisfied with the aforementioned aspects of ride quality.

Go back to rubber LCA bushings, stock top mounts (maybe eurosport pucks), and consider ditching the front strut brace (I didn't notice anything but extra noise with mine). Harshness is how the suspension is attached to the chassis, not how finely-tuned the dampers are. I think you would be wasting your money with even more costly coilovers if you are trying to solve harshness.

 

[2LEEGIT]

What's your ride height? How old/mileage on your set? I have B16 running F6/R3 to F8/R5, ride is very compliant and confidence inspiring.

 

[ChristopherNeil]

What's your ride height? How old/mileage on your set? I have B16 running F6/R3 to F8/R5, ride is very compliant and confidence inspiring.

I'll have to try those settings when the front is raised. As far as mileage, I'm going on a limb and saying ~40k. Had them checked either 5 or 10k ago and ge said they were not leaking or showing any unusual wear. I have noticed though, recently my splitter is just grazing a speed bump that not long ago I cleared. (I treat speed bumps like stop signs, I'm not just sending it)

 

[ChristopherNeil]

Go back to rubber LCA bushings, stock top mounts (maybe eurosport pucks), and consider ditching the front strut brace (I didn't notice anything but extra noise with mine). Harshness is how the suspension is attached to the chassis, not how finely-tuned the dampers are. I think you would be wasting your money with even more costly coilovers if you are trying to solve harshness.

I was under the impression that the LCAs were rubber, maybe I got ahead of myself with that. Surprisingly, I didn't notice much, if any, change in ride quality with both the top mounts or the strut bar? I rode new oem mounts when I first installed the coilovers, and only changed them for the significant added camber.

 

[scrllock]

I was under the impression that the LCAs were rubber, maybe I got ahead of myself with that. Surprisingly, I didn't notice much, if any, change in ride quality with both the top mounts or the strut bar? I rode new oem mounts when I first installed the coilovers, and only changed them for the significant added camber.

the LCAs are poly, and the mounts are rubber but they're 034 rubber, so there's a chance they're already shot.

 

[ChristopherNeil]

the LCAs are poly, and the mounts are rubber but they're 034 rubber, so there's a chance they're already shot.

 

[ChristopherNeil]

I set the damping to 5f/3r and it seems to have improved the harshness a tad, but not 100%. I inspected for bump stop clearance in the front and if I'm not mistaken, it's inverted with internal bump stops. Hopefully raising the front 10mm this coming week keeps the trend going.